LambertRX8

Yes it is 150000 miles. I just miss my Canadian Beer

Jedi54

iTrader: (7)

wow, congrats! That's a hell of an accomplishment Lambert.

I think it's time to reward your car with ALL new fluids. Here's to another 150,000.

Smoke Honda

iTrader: (1)

Congrats! I've never had a car that went over 132K before. Must've been a sweet feeling.

swoope

iTrader: (5)

lambert.

since you are in fla. i will send you a set of coils if you want to test that.

but likely your issue is the fuel pump. that is assuming you have ever changed your plugs..

this is what i would do..

change plugs.
b@g 44k
drive the **** out of it.
add new fuel pump and coils.

it will drive like new.

pm me if you want to borrow some coils.

btw, where the f is sorrento? on second thought. if you are near me i will help you change all you fluids.


beers

peterlemonjello

Congrats on 150,000.

This is what I would do:
1) Change coils, plugs & wires (check battery)
2) drive the **** out of it (may wanna run some fuel injector cleaner or similar through it)
3) Get your cat & fuel pump checked
4) Try cleaning the MAF sensor

Sushi

Wow, thats alot of miles. Glad its still going good for you.

r0tor

iTrader: (1)

I find it odd he probably has the highest mileage car with original engine and zero maintenance, and everyone wants to jump in with what he "should" be doing...

T-von

Any vehicle "rotary's included" doesn't need as frequent maintenance when 95% of the driving is done on the highway. Fluids corrode much much slower under consistant use. I also don't see the orginal apex seals in this engine lasting another 100k. You have to understand that they are much shorter than the older apex seals from the older 13b's. Sooner or later if he keeps driving his 8, the apex seals are going to flip out of the rotor grooves when they get to short to stay properly with-in them. As short as the the apex seals are getting, the apex seal springs simply aren't able to properly put enough pressure on the apex seal to force them against the rotor housing in low rpm's. This will cause compression problems and the surging and engine dying problems he's having.

RotoRocket

iTrader: (1)

That's amazing, as far as the lack of fluid changes is concerned.

Many of us believe that oil change intervals were shortened intentionally, in an attempt to reap greater profits, by everyone associated with the automotive industry, with the exception of the manufacturers themselves (who have gone to 5k, 7.5k, for dino, 10k to 12k for synthetic). GM even includes oil life meter in its new cars/trucks. I call this the Jiffy Lube effect - getting some people to believe they have to change their oil and filter every 3k miles, no matter what.

I'm just wondering if the same thing may be true regarding coolant and transmission fluids levels (I won't tempt fate by going against manufacturer recommended intervals, though, out of warranty concerns).

CnnmnSchnpps

iTrader: (1)

I guess that explains how JL can get away with taking your money and not changing your fluids... I guess they figure people do it too often anyway so it doesn't matter if you miss a couple times

They recommend changing transmission fluids every 30k. How much longer do you want to go?

As for coolant.. In rotary engines you don't want to stretch that out because of the mix of metals the coolant flows through..

Haze

Classic highway car. The plugs, pads, rotors last a long time because they are seldom used. The engine is always turning at lower revs per mile than in city driving.

However, some things stay the same. You are still sucking fuel through the fuel filter, which is now 50KL miles overdue for replacement, and air through the air filter, which you don't mention ever having replaced. I am assuming you have an automatic since you say tranny fluid. Whatever trans it is, replace the oil in the transmission if you want it to live. It could still be OK because you seldom shift, but it is definitely something to do.

Beats me if your coils are bad, but voltage going through the original wires for that long, I would replace them first with a set of Racing Beat wires.

Biggest problem in your car though is probably a clogged fuel filter followed closely by your air filter. Have a good one.

TheWulf

iTrader: (4)

150K miles on original pads? Is it metal on metal by now or do you just shift into reverse to break?

Razz1

Have them pull the CAT off. Look inside. Its probably damaged and needs to be replaced. That's your loss of power at freeway speeds.

The only way to check the cat is visual inspection.

I believe the RP super cat is much cheaper than a stock unit. You get an extra 4 poines too. Probably .1 better mpg due to better power ratio.

Haze

The Cat doesn't make that much sense the way that he has used the car. All those low rev highway miles don't add up to a damaged Cat to me. I still think that he should replace his clogged fuel filter first.

ken-x8

What's different about the mix of metals in a rotary engine?

For RX-8s filled with Mazda's FL22 coolant, the change interval is 10 years or 120,000 miles.

I don't think I've ever done a routine coolant change. Coolant does get changed in my cars if a hose or water pump blows. I've never had any problems from running coolant a long time. As I mentioned earlier in this thread, when glycol was first introduced as a coolant it was billed as "permanent."

Ken

Bester

Think of Sorrento as slightly north of Apopka (if it is the sorrento I am thinking of, Lake County?). Also willing to help in any way.

...and FWIW to the rest of you Apopka is slightly NW of Orlando

Mazurfer

I was wonering where it was myself!

Haze

The Maintenance schedule for 2004 says that it should be replaced after the first 60,000 miles or 4 years then every 2 years after that.

RotoRocket

iTrader: (1)

So, I don't have my 2005 manual in front of me - is the coolant change interval the same for all 8s?

CnnmnSchnpps

iTrader: (1)

The way it was explained to me is that since the coolant flows through both aluminium and cast iron passages, these can interact and begin to oxidize if the coolant isn't changed on a regular basis.

I change coolant twice a year to change between a summer and winter mixture. YMMV

Learjet_Pilot

One thing I have never read on this site is the life of the clutch. No mention of that in his post. Original clutch, or what?

CnnmnSchnpps

iTrader: (1)

And clutch pedal bracket? But again, if those are highway miles... Sitting in 6th for a couple hours at a time doesnt put that much strain on the clutch..

ken-x8

There are a lot of cars like that. The name brand coolants have anti-corrosion additives to address it. I think you need to read the label and see if it matches what the owner's manual says.

Old school! That's the way it used to be before glycol. Water in the summer, alchohol-based antifreeze in the winter. On the first hot day in the spring the roadside would be littered with cars whose owners hadn't changed back to water soon enough. And there were enough incidents of cracked blocks from people who missed the change the other way.

Ken

CnnmnSchnpps

iTrader: (1)

True.. guess 1 year changes may be overkill.. I never really worry about it because..

Sounds like a fun time I never owned a car in those days but I did grow up in Russia (USSR) where things were done the "old school" way much later into the 20th century. So yeah, seen it

In the summer I intend to track my car so I will change to a 70/30 mix with some water wetter added..

Rotary Rasp

iTrader: (2)

No tranny problems?