Is ur place hiring? ~~~ but hmm, you're in VA ... any plants around the NYC area ?

but I mean, if the pay is good, I dont mind to go anywhere. at least for a while hahaha

 

Pay is not that great, benefits are very good and days off are pretty good also. I came from california though to be with my wife who got ito vcu medical school so I am not too sure what the pay is for the area, its obviously lower pay then where I came from. I just needed a job that payed enough so I can pay our bills here for 4 years. The schedule was killer and being a sports car enthusiast who wouldn't want payed training on the rotary motor from the ones who build them in japan. Not hiring now, 11 of us under a few boss's, I have a feeling they will hire eventually but they had 400 interviews for the 11 positions. There are the small perks and the work schedule that made the job sound good to me, I want to see my wife as much as I can before she is a doctor and we agreed to take the lower pay route for this job.

Its pretty much a assembly line type of job, the pay was decent but it wont buy you a house, I just need to survive for 3 more years. We will be moving onto doing transmissions next though, I believe starting next year, not sure how they are handling it.

 

sleepy: thanks for the update! I'm quite curious to see how that 09 runs with a rebuild

 

Nice to see the manufactures on the site. Goes a long way to building confidence in your product.

 

DIY on how to swap a 09 to a 04-08?

One can dream right? Thanks for all the support.

 

I officially love Sleepy-Z. Thanks for all the info!

 

I dont think thats going to be easy for us out there.

Cuz they have access to stuff that even Dealership will never have access to. so ...

Damn sleepy oh well. I tried

 

Thanks for the interesting news S-Z...

I would expect in changing the new 09 engine to a series 1 not only would the engine wiring harness need replacing, I would also think the PCM (ECU) would also need replacement as the 09 one would have the hardware and software to operate the 09's Electric Metering Oil Pumps.

 

I have a 2004 six speed and received my re-build via Ocean Mazda in Miami. I know the service manager there and asked him if he knew which shop mine came from. He said that they did quite a few of the motor replacements but could not trace mine back to a specific shop. Ironically my original motor was running fine when I received the re-call and was surprised when they said I am getting a re-build replacement. I wish I knew where the re-build came from for it definitely has more power than the original.

 

Sleepy...your from Virginia? We need to meet...I'm in Blacksburg! Lets go!

EDIT: I will gladly donate my Sunlight Silver to go through rigorous curse testing. Or an 09 swap...sigh.

 

Sleepy, I don't want to start an oil war (with others, not you), but do you have an opinion about whether using 5W-20 or 5W-30 (or even 10W-30 maybe) makes any difference in terms of increasing the reliability/durability of the Renesis?

Mazda North America advises 5W-20, some feel in an attempt to meet CAFE standards, while Mazda in Japan, Australia, Europe and other parts recommends 5W-30, I believe.

And many members believe that there are fewer compression problems with the motors in those areas where 5W-30 is recommended.


Thanks.

 

I believe he answered that in his first post many moons ago. Do a search noobian!

 

This is what is in my Mazda Manual....so not a problem...I had to show the Mazda-mech and thats all he needed. Some of us should be running 10X40wt or even 20X50wt in hot climates.

"Engine oil viscosity, or thickness, has an
effect on fuel economy and cold-weather
operation (starting and oil flow).
Low-viscosity engine oils can provide
improved fuel economy and cold-weather
performance.
But high-temperature weather conditions
require higher-viscosity engine oils for
satisfactory lubrication"

 

i bet he does not touch that with a 10 foot pole!!!

and to sleepy..

thanks for the update.

beers

 

Sorry if I missed his answer guys.

OldRotor, how did your dealership respond to that portion of the manual you cited to them, and what are you using?

Thanks.

 

Wish I was closer. I could swap you my 160,000mile motor for one of your rebuilts. I could do some mile testing for you.

 

Are these only higher compression numbers or did you do full engine dynos on the higher than spec motors? Can you give us some actual numbers, and what's considered the normal range?

Not if I Z you first, LOL!

 

They could do nothing but put in the 5X30wt oil I reguested it gets over 100F where we live.

 

First to the florida motor swap, best way to check is the front housing cover on the top would be our stamp. I highley doubt you got one from us.

The compression tests were done before and after dyno tests, the rule for us is if its below 8.0 its a fail. they should range between 8.4-9.6 . We have some Mazda designed compression tester, gives us a digital reading for 2500 rpms or 250(I believe). I only worked the dyno room a week. They keep moving me.

I cant really answer the oil question, honestly oil is never the real issue anyways to the motor failing. It all comes down to either a rotor housing gasket failure and coolant getting in the oil or 90% of the time carbon build up and you will see when I post some pics....off to work right now.

 

I look forward to the pics, Sleepy-z. You said early on that the Mazda engineers didn't like the idea of using any engine cleaner in the oil/gas like seafoam, their opinion being that dislodged carbon can cause worse problems elswhere. Has your or their opinion changed on that?

 

Its well known the common failures are due to 1st time rotary buyers thrashing the engines when cold. Allowing the side plates to crush the rotor housings & thus leak fluids eventually overheating blah blah blah.............

The carbon issue is interesting. Although the Series-II engines wont have the miles on them yet, plenty of Series-I engines would have.

Do you find the 4-port versions are the main culprits for the carbon build up or can it happen on the higher reving 6-port as often....??

Plus is it mostly the 03 / 04 engines failing or is it the complete series-I range (03-07)

REgards

 

you cannot thrash the rx8. the ecu will not let you when it is cold.

and yes the early motors with the early ecu flashes are at highest risk.

beers

 

I picked up my 04 4AT late March of this year with 8000 miles and fairly up to date flash/recall/tsb wise.

I quickly bought an AP and have had MM increase the OMP rate even more than he already had dialed into his base maps.

Time will tell for me. Way I see it, I've got 3 years to drive the **** out of my car before I'm on my own.

 

From what I understand there is a service bulletine on this, all I can say is do what it says, I just asked a boss my first day what happens if you use a cleaner he said it only break off a little and lodges it elsewhere. In my opinion I would definately avoid cleaning the throttle body, it just knocks the gunks back down into the motor.

As for what year these are, I would say I have mostly seen 04/05/06 models but I imagine they are the most sold models also.

 

The TSB is for engines that are already having a problem, but I'm wondering more about continual, preventative fuel additives or some kinds of premix. I think I recall you saying early on that premium fuel was important for engine life and I'm imagining that the detergent additives in something like Shell V-Power would be helpful in preventing carbon build-up. Some here even go so far to use a so-called lubricious cleaner, eg, LCD FP+, as part of their premxi at every fill-up. Supposed to prevent and address carbon build-up, emulsify the carbon and convert it to a graphite lubricant. Others use MMO or Lucas UCL at every fill-up or something like Techron or Sea Foam as regular shock treatments. Since the combustion chamber is lubricated by the MOP, the trick seems to be finding a cleaner that doesn't harm the oil films.