HEY GUYS NEED a quick answer! BUYING USED RX8
11-10-2012, 06:07 PM
#26
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exelent! man if you have 5 grand already save a bit and buy another one i got my for less than 7 with a "new" reman engine and even when my engine dont give me any problems i already spend more than 5 6 grand to get my car ok.. yeah ok no perfect im still planning spend another 5 10 more to get a really nice 8..
11-11-2012, 07:01 PM
#28
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I've gone through the newbie section... but I'm still stumped on what to look for in an 8.
Could you guys tell me specifically what I should be looking for?
I found another 8 and he wants $7k its got 98k miles and 04.
Another 8 at $9.7k and thats got 72k miles and is an 04.
I feel a bit insecure about purchasing an 8 without warranty.. What do you guys suggest?
Could you guys tell me specifically what I should be looking for?
I found another 8 and he wants $7k its got 98k miles and 04.
Another 8 at $9.7k and thats got 72k miles and is an 04.
I feel a bit insecure about purchasing an 8 without warranty.. What do you guys suggest?
11-11-2012, 07:21 PM
#29
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If you are uncomfortable buying an RX-8 without a warranty, then don't. If there isn't a factory warranty, you can buy 3rd party warranties. However, if it is out of factory warranty, then the cost of a 3rd part warranty is probably nearly as much as an engine replacement by itself, so it can be a tough call. Otherwise, go for 2006 or newer.
As far as what to look for, do some basic searching for a used car checklist of what to look for. Then ADD these points to that list:
As far as what to look for, do some basic searching for a used car checklist of what to look for. Then ADD these points to that list:
...still ready to buy? What you should ask and look for
So, if, after reading everything above, and you still want to purchase an RX-8, here is a list of things to look for and/or ask questions about. Private sellers are more likely to know the answers, dealers less likely.
Note: These are in ADDITION to any questions that you should ask of any car you are thinking about buying, regardless of year, make, or model. These are RX-8 specific questions only.
Any item with a blue Mazda next to it can be answered by calling Mazda if the seller doesn't know, (or you think they are making it up / lying)
Any item with an orange year (like 2004) next to it means that the question applies for that year.
(in no particular order)
- Engine ever replaced [Mazda]
- - Mileage on current engine [Mazda]
- Engine Compression
- Catalytic converter replaced
- Mileage of last coil change
- - Has it ever had one or more coils fail on it with the current cat?
- Mileage of last plug change
- Mileage of last plug wire change
- Has it ever been flooded? (cat life remaining info)
- Tail lights ever replaced? [2004, 2005]
- - If not, have the seals ever been replaced, or the tailights modified to drain water?
- Oil consumption (ask in how many miles between adding a quart or half a quart, and have them tell you which it was))
- MSP 13 performed by a dealer, and date / mileage [Mazda 2004, 2005]
- Gas mileage typically seen
- Number of miles typically on the trip odometer when the low gas light comes on
(yes, ask both gas mileage questions)
- Starter replaced to the upgraded version [2004, 2005]
- Temperature control **** ever replaced or repaired [2004, 2005]
- Clutch pedal assembly ever replaced, re-welded, or re-inforced
Come back here with the answers and we can give you a heads up or a general idea on any red flags or warnings to keep in mind. Not all of them would mean "don't buy", but may help reduce the asking price.
Mazda North America Operation contact info:
By Phone: 800-222-5500 Monday – Friday, 6:00am to 4:45pm PST
Mazda North American Operations
P.O. Box 19734
Irvine, CA 92623-9734
Attn: Customer Assistance Center
So, if, after reading everything above, and you still want to purchase an RX-8, here is a list of things to look for and/or ask questions about. Private sellers are more likely to know the answers, dealers less likely.
Note: These are in ADDITION to any questions that you should ask of any car you are thinking about buying, regardless of year, make, or model. These are RX-8 specific questions only.
Any item with a blue Mazda next to it can be answered by calling Mazda if the seller doesn't know, (or you think they are making it up / lying)
Any item with an orange year (like 2004) next to it means that the question applies for that year.
(in no particular order)
- Engine ever replaced [Mazda]
- - Mileage on current engine [Mazda]
- Engine Compression
- Catalytic converter replaced
- Mileage of last coil change
- - Has it ever had one or more coils fail on it with the current cat?
- Mileage of last plug change
- Mileage of last plug wire change
- Has it ever been flooded? (cat life remaining info)
- Tail lights ever replaced? [2004, 2005]
- - If not, have the seals ever been replaced, or the tailights modified to drain water?
- Oil consumption (ask in how many miles between adding a quart or half a quart, and have them tell you which it was))
- MSP 13 performed by a dealer, and date / mileage [Mazda 2004, 2005]
- Gas mileage typically seen
- Number of miles typically on the trip odometer when the low gas light comes on
(yes, ask both gas mileage questions)
- Starter replaced to the upgraded version [2004, 2005]
- Temperature control **** ever replaced or repaired [2004, 2005]
- Clutch pedal assembly ever replaced, re-welded, or re-inforced
Come back here with the answers and we can give you a heads up or a general idea on any red flags or warnings to keep in mind. Not all of them would mean "don't buy", but may help reduce the asking price.
Mazda North America Operation contact info:
By Phone: 800-222-5500 Monday – Friday, 6:00am to 4:45pm PST
Mazda North American Operations
P.O. Box 19734
Irvine, CA 92623-9734
Attn: Customer Assistance Center
11-11-2012, 08:11 PM
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What about this one?
75k chassis
GReddy turbo kit
- GReddy Spec Mitsu T618Z Turbo
- GReddy Cast-Iron Manifold
- GReddy Cast-Iron Downpipe
- Ext. Type T Wastegates
- GReddy 31v Front Mount Intercooler
- Polished Aluminum Intercooler Piping
- Pre-Programmed GReddy E-manage
- GReddy E-Manage Harness
Center mounted pods in the center dash
GReddy oil pan
Prospec-V turbo computer
HKS recirculated BOV
Racing Beat True Dual exhaust
Sylfex Auxillary input mod
and 100 miles on the new motor........
8k..
lol
What do you guys think?
75k chassis
GReddy turbo kit
- GReddy Spec Mitsu T618Z Turbo
- GReddy Cast-Iron Manifold
- GReddy Cast-Iron Downpipe
- Ext. Type T Wastegates
- GReddy 31v Front Mount Intercooler
- Polished Aluminum Intercooler Piping
- Pre-Programmed GReddy E-manage
- GReddy E-Manage Harness
Center mounted pods in the center dash
GReddy oil pan
Prospec-V turbo computer
HKS recirculated BOV
Racing Beat True Dual exhaust
Sylfex Auxillary input mod
and 100 miles on the new motor........
8k..
lol
What do you guys think?
Last edited by bishs; 11-11-2012 at 08:17 PM.
11-11-2012, 08:21 PM
#31
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he says he has the receipt for the new motor.. and the receipt for the turbo rebuild..
do i even need to get a compression test for this vehicle? or this a better safe then sorry situation?
do i even need to get a compression test for this vehicle? or this a better safe then sorry situation?
11-11-2012, 08:59 PM
#32
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That's a bomb waiting to explode.
Why?
This: Pre-Programmed GReddy E-manage
It is not capable of proper engine management for a turbocharged Renesis.
There is a reason he has a new engine in there, and it's not normal failure.
If you buy it, expect to have to pull off all the turbo stuff immediately, and if you want to get it turbo'ed again, to spend several grand modifying the hardware properly. Not to mention getting an AccessPORT and then getting it properly tuned.
Why?
This: Pre-Programmed GReddy E-manage
It is not capable of proper engine management for a turbocharged Renesis.
There is a reason he has a new engine in there, and it's not normal failure.
If you buy it, expect to have to pull off all the turbo stuff immediately, and if you want to get it turbo'ed again, to spend several grand modifying the hardware properly. Not to mention getting an AccessPORT and then getting it properly tuned.
11-11-2012, 09:05 PM
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Interesting.. so i would need to get an accessport and get it tuned out?
What do you mean by pulling off the turbo?
Do you mean that I shouldn't be running this engine without the accessport installed?
he says, "The engine was replaced because the engine had low compression.. but it ran great just uncomfortably.. "
What do you mean by pulling off the turbo?
Do you mean that I shouldn't be running this engine without the accessport installed?
he says, "The engine was replaced because the engine had low compression.. but it ran great just uncomfortably.. "
Last edited by bishs; 11-11-2012 at 09:14 PM.
11-11-2012, 09:32 PM
#34
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Technically there are other methods other than the AccessPORT. But the only other ones that are really viable are all in the "testing" phase without much support at all.
The OEM ECU can mostly handle turbocharging, IF it is reflashed with appropriate maps. The AccessPORT is still the best tool to do that. See the AccessPORT section in the 2nd thread in my sig.
I guarantee you, a turbocharged RX-8 with unmodified GReddy hardware running on e-manage that just got a new engine put it...that prior engine didn't just "fail compression". The turbo blew it. Or rather, the owner decided to let a turbo provide the conditions possible and decided to keep the ECU from being able to control those conditions properly.
I'd take that first car for $1k before I'd take this one for $5k.
The OEM ECU can mostly handle turbocharging, IF it is reflashed with appropriate maps. The AccessPORT is still the best tool to do that. See the AccessPORT section in the 2nd thread in my sig.
I guarantee you, a turbocharged RX-8 with unmodified GReddy hardware running on e-manage that just got a new engine put it...that prior engine didn't just "fail compression". The turbo blew it. Or rather, the owner decided to let a turbo provide the conditions possible and decided to keep the ECU from being able to control those conditions properly.
I'd take that first car for $1k before I'd take this one for $5k.
11-11-2012, 09:55 PM
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Technically there are other methods other than the AccessPORT. But the only other ones that are really viable are all in the "testing" phase without much support at all.
The OEM ECU can mostly handle turbocharging, IF it is reflashed with appropriate maps. The AccessPORT is still the best tool to do that. See the AccessPORT section in the 2nd thread in my sig.
I guarantee you, a turbocharged RX-8 with unmodified GReddy hardware running on e-manage that just got a new engine put it...that prior engine didn't just "fail compression". The turbo blew it. Or rather, the owner decided to let a turbo provide the conditions possible and decided to keep the ECU from being able to control those conditions properly.
I'd take that first car for $1k before I'd take this one for $5k.
The OEM ECU can mostly handle turbocharging, IF it is reflashed with appropriate maps. The AccessPORT is still the best tool to do that. See the AccessPORT section in the 2nd thread in my sig.
I guarantee you, a turbocharged RX-8 with unmodified GReddy hardware running on e-manage that just got a new engine put it...that prior engine didn't just "fail compression". The turbo blew it. Or rather, the owner decided to let a turbo provide the conditions possible and decided to keep the ECU from being able to control those conditions properly.
I'd take that first car for $1k before I'd take this one for $5k.
Thanks RIWWP.. i'll keep looking.
11-11-2012, 10:03 PM
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Technically there are other methods other than the AccessPORT. But the only other ones that are really viable are all in the "testing" phase without much support at all.
The OEM ECU can mostly handle turbocharging, IF it is reflashed with appropriate maps. The AccessPORT is still the best tool to do that. See the AccessPORT section in the 2nd thread in my sig.
I guarantee you, a turbocharged RX-8 with unmodified GReddy hardware running on e-manage that just got a new engine put it...that prior engine didn't just "fail compression". The turbo blew it. Or rather, the owner decided to let a turbo provide the conditions possible and decided to keep the ECU from being able to control those conditions properly.
I'd take that first car for $1k before I'd take this one for $5k.
The OEM ECU can mostly handle turbocharging, IF it is reflashed with appropriate maps. The AccessPORT is still the best tool to do that. See the AccessPORT section in the 2nd thread in my sig.
I guarantee you, a turbocharged RX-8 with unmodified GReddy hardware running on e-manage that just got a new engine put it...that prior engine didn't just "fail compression". The turbo blew it. Or rather, the owner decided to let a turbo provide the conditions possible and decided to keep the ECU from being able to control those conditions properly.
I'd take that first car for $1k before I'd take this one for $5k.
+ compression test lol.
Last edited by bishs; 11-11-2012 at 10:05 PM.
11-12-2012, 06:43 PM
#37
I personally would have purchased the 1K car, then had the best shop I could find do a rebuild, THEN I get to take care of the car as I would and drive many happy miles.
LOL @ Turbo charged car, it is a grenade. Run away.
LOL @ Turbo charged car, it is a grenade. Run away.
11-14-2012, 11:13 PM
#38
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Hey guys.. so i've been looking for an 8.
I think I'm finally ready to make my purchase.. but i do have a dilemma.
Option 1, 80k miles base model $8700
Has all service records and says the oil consumption is about a quart in between oil changes. Oil was changed at 3k each time.
Option 2, 50k miles GT $9k
Due to personal issues, the family is selling this car. One of the family members is telling me that he will get a compression test at a "mazda only" repair shop..
The car seems to be well taken care of.. but they are not sure if they can locate all the service records. It has a custom dual exhaust plus a few other mods. In the case that I cannot find the service records for the coil, coil wires, spark plugs, spark plug wires, and oil change records.. what can I do to know that this motor will be good? Of course I will need to get a compression test, but what other precautions can I take without the official owner being present and without service records for the plugs etc.
I think I'm finally ready to make my purchase.. but i do have a dilemma.
Option 1, 80k miles base model $8700
Has all service records and says the oil consumption is about a quart in between oil changes. Oil was changed at 3k each time.
Option 2, 50k miles GT $9k
Due to personal issues, the family is selling this car. One of the family members is telling me that he will get a compression test at a "mazda only" repair shop..
The car seems to be well taken care of.. but they are not sure if they can locate all the service records. It has a custom dual exhaust plus a few other mods. In the case that I cannot find the service records for the coil, coil wires, spark plugs, spark plug wires, and oil change records.. what can I do to know that this motor will be good? Of course I will need to get a compression test, but what other precautions can I take without the official owner being present and without service records for the plugs etc.
Last edited by bishs; 11-14-2012 at 11:54 PM.
11-15-2012, 01:14 AM
#39
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What years are they? Most people replace coils, plugs, and wires when they purchase a rx8 anyway.
From what you said I would say the gt with 50k miles for sure as long as the compression checks out. If they cannot find the maintenance history try and get some money off and explain that you are going to have to replace those items.
From what you said I would say the gt with 50k miles for sure as long as the compression checks out. If they cannot find the maintenance history try and get some money off and explain that you are going to have to replace those items.
11-15-2012, 07:56 AM
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What years are they? Most people replace coils, plugs, and wires when they purchase a rx8 anyway.
From what you said I would say the gt with 50k miles for sure as long as the compression checks out. If they cannot find the maintenance history try and get some money off and explain that you are going to have to replace those items.
From what you said I would say the gt with 50k miles for sure as long as the compression checks out. If they cannot find the maintenance history try and get some money off and explain that you are going to have to replace those items.
11-15-2012, 05:27 PM
#42
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imo you can get a 05 and maybe 06 for the same price dude! just have to serch hard i mean you gunna buy a car no some shoes..but if is just those 2 options i chose the 2 for the low miles but pics help too how they looks from the body and interior?? also i didnt paid more the 8000 for an 04...maybe is just me lol
11-15-2012, 05:32 PM
#44
i would have bought the $1000 car, buying an Rx8 and putting in a new/reman engine is the best way to go.
if you buy the 80k car and expect it to need an engine, clutch, and cat (if in CA) in the next couple years, you will be happy with it.
the 50K car should run longer, but its going to need the same stuff eventually
if you buy the 80k car and expect it to need an engine, clutch, and cat (if in CA) in the next couple years, you will be happy with it.
the 50K car should run longer, but its going to need the same stuff eventually
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