you will too if you need a new engine.

...? I will too what..? Huh? A bit confused..

You will have these same experiences.

Your dealer may seem nice, they will have nothing to do with the decision of major repairs.

Mazda will send out someone else, a regional manager or whatnot to look at it and they would probably tell you to kick rocks bc you dont use 5w20.


Just like they tried to tell me my trans shouldnt have been warrantied when it blew out at 32K miles because my clutch showed signs of high heat concluding that it was caused by abuse.

Good thing Mazda took my lawyer threat seriously.

I dont understand all the fuss.:uhh:


Here is what I do:

1). Buy Oil Filters from my local dealer. Reciept on record at Dealer:lol:

2). Go to Wal-Mart and buy 20W-50 and Change my oil. Discard Reciept :eyetwitch

3). Buy 5W-20 and use that for all my "Add" Oil in between changes. Keep Reciept :eyetwitch

Get the picture:lol2:

To be honest, I dont even have most of my records.


That may pose a problem if my engine decides to kick the bucket.

confused....

about what?

if i was down on our southern border in the lowlands from AZ all the way across to florida id be on 20w50.

Its hot down here.

^Uhh yea down where?
Why Zoom44? is that what the mazda techs say to use? i mean i dont want them to void my warrenty :rofl:

well look at it from his point of view,

if something did go wrong, he would get blamed for it, and it goes downhill from there.

For example, lets say some problems did arise. and you don't want to pay for a new motor, you could possibly say.. well.. so and so tech over at mazda, wanted to put a different oil in when I wanted to use the recommended type. blah blah..

you see where I'm goin with this lol. Not saying you would try something like this but, there are some shady people out there. Better to be safe then sorry right?

i use 5w-30, but might be considering 10-30 or 10-40

This is my reasoning. They pretty much TOLD me that I'd be screwed if my engine failed and anything but 5w-20 was found in the engine or if records indicated so. I hate to do it guys, but I gotta play it safe. I can't afford not to.

I use 40 weight in FL. Though it really isn't that hot here, I'd be happy to run 30 too.

Logical.

FYI, there is NO way a dealer could take a used oil sample and have an analysis determine the difference between 5w20 and, say, 10w40.
No way, trust me I work in a refinery and do oil tests all day, and it just ain't that precise, there is so much overlap that a 30 could be also called a 40 etc, and once the oil has been in the car and sheared, diluted, heated and depleted - all bets are off.

Rotaries don't die from oil system problems - they die from MANY other things, then people tear them down and see bearing wear......totally irrelevant to the original reason the motor quit, but wrong conclusions are often jumped-to.

If a guy had a new '8 under warranty and kept receipt of buying an RX-8 filter and a jug of 5w20 regularly, who would know if he put 10w40 in, and used the 5w20 in the wifes mini-van?

Just sayin......

S

boo.

Let's first be clear about something...

The mazda dealership doesn't have ANY method by which to test what kind of oil is in your motor. Now, even if they did it would be difficult to tell what your oil began as because of how oil breaks down as it's used. As time goes on the additive package degrades and the viscosity changes.

The only way the dealer will know what oil you run is if you tell them. Either way, I'd suggest changing your own oil unless you can sit there and actually watch the dude change it for you. I cannot tell you how many stories I hear of people leaving shops with NO oil in their car, or NO oil cap etc.

I've never used 5w-20 in my car. I ran dyno oil for the first 6,000 miles to break the motor in and ran royal purple 10w-30 for 40,000 miles. Then I bolted on the Sohn adapter and have ran 20w-50 and I just broke 70,000 miles. Origional motor with some track time.

Oil is an individual choice, true.

Ah ha! Stealth beat me to it!

I actually did haha. He let me watch the whole process and I got to see how easy it was..

yep... un plug....wait....replug....un screw filter...wipe... put oil on gasket of new filter....screw on... wipe off oil that spilled... add oil to engine.. start car and turn off after 10 seconds. check oil level, add if needed... then go drive the shit out of your car.

I'm with ya 100% cuz we have talked in the past about suff but;
So the same can be said with RP and syn oils then right?
I mean I'm just palying two sides you know, one part no0b one part master or you take the high road I'll take the low road :lol2:

20w 50 here. turboed though.

10w40 turboed, but it's relatively temperate on long island

I guess so. At which point I was aiming to get Mazmart to replace my engine anyways because I'm all set with a factory remanufactured piece of poop. I know what you mean though. The regional of my area I heard is an idiot..so just avoiding him.

i guess the problem for the op now is that he told the dealer that he's running 10w40, so it's possible that somewhere, maybe in the computer, the dealer marked down this in his vin, so IF something were to go wrong and engine warranty repair is needed, in the process whoever does the work might happen to see the record and use that as an excuse to deny warranty. can they do that? the manual says use 5w20 but i'm not sure if it actually strictly says *use 5w20 or void your warranty.* maybe it does

I would also believe the type of oil recommended is dependent on the vehicle use. Such being a race car vs. daily driver.