Goin back to 5w-20
 

(Gets into flame suit)

I went to the dealership today, and made the huge blunder of mentioning 10w-40, the oil recommended to me by a user on here. I had been topping off with it.

Immediately the clerk went into a fit and told me I'd have to sign a waiver regarding me wanting to use the oil and that my extended warranty on the engine would be in jeopardy if my engine was to fail. Furthermore he told me that the engine wouldn't last 10k miles on that oil and more or less that I was an idiot.

Quite pissed at this point, I told him I wasn't signing shit and to go ahead and just put 5w-20 in there. After the change, I inspected everything I signed and made sure it mentioned nothing of using a "non-sanctioned" oil or 10w-40, but I fear some internal records still may mention it. Luckily the mechanic wasn't as much of an asshole or I would have left the place with no oil change done.

Either way, to save my warranty (I have an aftermarket one too), I'd rather play it safe and use 5w-20 semi-synthetic that the mech used even though I agree that mazda is wrong to recommend it.

Is there /any/ merit to what he said on the motor not lasting very long on the 10w-40

the 10,000 mile claim he made is ABSOLUTE B.S.
That's why I don't get oil changes at dealerships.

where do you live?

dont know about 10 40, but theres people on here that use all different types of oil in thier car...i use 5w 30

i running 20w40

*fixed

no seriously tho - that's B.S. - i've been rolling on 10w-30 for about 20k - no problems here...

what an assbag
find a new dealer
also, change your own oil or go somewhere else

I concur, either go somewhere else and supply your own oil, or change it yourself. I wouldn't go back to 5w20.

to keep your warranty in tact and still use 10-40 - get your oil changed at a non dealer and supply your own oil making sure they keep a record but do not note what oil you supplied.

You might want to ask the smartass why Japan and Europe uses 5W30.

I take my car to the dealership for the occasional oil change in order to have a service record with them to aid in warranty work down the road, and am always vague about what oil I use personally. I've had a few discussions with service techs (one at my dealership owns an 8) about the benefit of a thicker oil, but I never say I run anything different from 5w-20, nor do i ask them to put anything different in it.

I've never had a negative reaction from them, and if I did, I'd probably find a new dealer. What the tech there told you was A: Blatantly false, and B: poor customer service.

I use 5w-30 myself. I've been pondering trying a 10w30 though

just do your own oil change. or don't ever mention anything to the dealer. you let them get to you

that's B.S. change ur own oil!

I specifically tell the dealership to use 5W-30 when going in for an oil change. They had no problem doing that.
I mostly go there for warranty reasons as Socket7 said. Just makes things easier if they have everything on record, so they can't BS me on not maintaining the car properly.
Don't know about using 10W-40 but it is a fact that in the rest of the world Mazda recommends 5W-30 for the RX-8.

I use 5W20 and have a perfectly healthy running engine with 72,XXX miles :)


I had to stir up shit didnt I ? :suspect:

5w30 here ,, i wouldnt put nothing ticker///

that's what i'd do :lol:

Japan and Europe use the metric system where the US uses imperial units.
5w20 in america is actually 5w30 in the rest of the world.


<PS: This is a joke.>

haha u better get ur flame suit on Renesis07.....damn just cause i said something to u about it i'll put mine on....
(runs into closet......damn it where did i put that damn thing.....oh there it is still smells like melted skin from last time....runs back to laptop)

ok Flame away!!!!

im wonding if there is any one around the new england are that can help me decide what oil i should use i used 5 20 but now i got 40k and im wondering if i should change over if any one has some advice let me know thank

Ive thought about changing so many times but I feel like mazda would use that as an excuse NOT to warranty my engine if the worst happens.

BTW Im at 72,XXX with good compression and Ive used 5w20 the cars whole life.

To give some closure to this, everyone has an opinion on what is good and what is bad.
You need to decide what is best for you in the weather conditions you will see, a good brand name 5W-30 or 10W30 to 40 will be fine I think.
Mazda wants 5W-20 for the last little bit of fuel economy they can get but most folks here feel is too thin in hot climates.
Mineral or synth oils are another story that is better answered by doing a good search on this site.

please post what dealership it was and what the clerks name was.

this is absolute bs. many rotary engine rebuilders recommend a higher weight oil like 10w-40.

stealerships know jack shit. damn paper pushers.

One of the dealer in my area says they have always used 5W-30 on the RX-8, and I have that on receipts indicating 5W-30 when I went in for MSP16... I am saving that for future use if the warranty/oil grade issue ever comes up...

All I know is.. I use 10w 40 by Redline.. I got recommended that by some members on the forum...race teams in Japan use 10w 50 and some even use Redline. I talked to a shop on the forum here that builds some engines for Koni Challenge cars and when I said I use 10w 40 Redline...he said "Best stuff. Good."... Hell I even use a Knight Sports oil filter to make sure it's good. The dealership does all my oil changes for me... too bad you guys have these experiences. :/

you will too if you need a new engine.

...? I will too what..? Huh? A bit confused..

You will have these same experiences.

Your dealer may seem nice, they will have nothing to do with the decision of major repairs.

Mazda will send out someone else, a regional manager or whatnot to look at it and they would probably tell you to kick rocks bc you dont use 5w20.


Just like they tried to tell me my trans shouldnt have been warrantied when it blew out at 32K miles because my clutch showed signs of high heat concluding that it was caused by abuse.

Good thing Mazda took my lawyer threat seriously.

I dont understand all the fuss.:uhh:


Here is what I do:

1). Buy Oil Filters from my local dealer. Reciept on record at Dealer:lol:

2). Go to Wal-Mart and buy 20W-50 and Change my oil. Discard Reciept :eyetwitch

3). Buy 5W-20 and use that for all my "Add" Oil in between changes. Keep Reciept :eyetwitch

Get the picture:lol2:

To be honest, I dont even have most of my records.


That may pose a problem if my engine decides to kick the bucket.

confused....

about what?

if i was down on our southern border in the lowlands from AZ all the way across to florida id be on 20w50.

Its hot down here.

^Uhh yea down where?
Why Zoom44? is that what the mazda techs say to use? i mean i dont want them to void my warrenty :rofl:

well look at it from his point of view,

if something did go wrong, he would get blamed for it, and it goes downhill from there.

For example, lets say some problems did arise. and you don't want to pay for a new motor, you could possibly say.. well.. so and so tech over at mazda, wanted to put a different oil in when I wanted to use the recommended type. blah blah..

you see where I'm goin with this lol. Not saying you would try something like this but, there are some shady people out there. Better to be safe then sorry right?

i use 5w-30, but might be considering 10-30 or 10-40

This is my reasoning. They pretty much TOLD me that I'd be screwed if my engine failed and anything but 5w-20 was found in the engine or if records indicated so. I hate to do it guys, but I gotta play it safe. I can't afford not to.

I use 40 weight in FL. Though it really isn't that hot here, I'd be happy to run 30 too.

Logical.

FYI, there is NO way a dealer could take a used oil sample and have an analysis determine the difference between 5w20 and, say, 10w40.
No way, trust me I work in a refinery and do oil tests all day, and it just ain't that precise, there is so much overlap that a 30 could be also called a 40 etc, and once the oil has been in the car and sheared, diluted, heated and depleted - all bets are off.

Rotaries don't die from oil system problems - they die from MANY other things, then people tear them down and see bearing wear......totally irrelevant to the original reason the motor quit, but wrong conclusions are often jumped-to.

If a guy had a new '8 under warranty and kept receipt of buying an RX-8 filter and a jug of 5w20 regularly, who would know if he put 10w40 in, and used the 5w20 in the wifes mini-van?

Just sayin......

S

boo.

Let's first be clear about something...

The mazda dealership doesn't have ANY method by which to test what kind of oil is in your motor. Now, even if they did it would be difficult to tell what your oil began as because of how oil breaks down as it's used. As time goes on the additive package degrades and the viscosity changes.

The only way the dealer will know what oil you run is if you tell them. Either way, I'd suggest changing your own oil unless you can sit there and actually watch the dude change it for you. I cannot tell you how many stories I hear of people leaving shops with NO oil in their car, or NO oil cap etc.

I've never used 5w-20 in my car. I ran dyno oil for the first 6,000 miles to break the motor in and ran royal purple 10w-30 for 40,000 miles. Then I bolted on the Sohn adapter and have ran 20w-50 and I just broke 70,000 miles. Origional motor with some track time.

Oil is an individual choice, true.

Ah ha! Stealth beat me to it!

I actually did haha. He let me watch the whole process and I got to see how easy it was..

yep... un plug....wait....replug....un screw filter...wipe... put oil on gasket of new filter....screw on... wipe off oil that spilled... add oil to engine.. start car and turn off after 10 seconds. check oil level, add if needed... then go drive the shit out of your car.

I'm with ya 100% cuz we have talked in the past about suff but;
So the same can be said with RP and syn oils then right?
I mean I'm just palying two sides you know, one part no0b one part master or you take the high road I'll take the low road :lol2:

20w 50 here. turboed though.

10w40 turboed, but it's relatively temperate on long island

I guess so. At which point I was aiming to get Mazmart to replace my engine anyways because I'm all set with a factory remanufactured piece of poop. I know what you mean though. The regional of my area I heard is an idiot..so just avoiding him.

i guess the problem for the op now is that he told the dealer that he's running 10w40, so it's possible that somewhere, maybe in the computer, the dealer marked down this in his vin, so IF something were to go wrong and engine warranty repair is needed, in the process whoever does the work might happen to see the record and use that as an excuse to deny warranty. can they do that? the manual says use 5w20 but i'm not sure if it actually strictly says *use 5w20 or void your warranty.* maybe it does

I would also believe the type of oil recommended is dependent on the vehicle use. Such being a race car vs. daily driver.