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My engine is out and dangling on a hoist...im not going to buy an engine stand as I've only ever built a few engines and will probably only build a few more. ..
but i made a engine work bench from scrap wood..
rough but very strong.
perfect dimensions for a rotary short block...notice the hole for eccentric shaft😂
Just thought id share
Probably atkins...With the option of genuine mazda seals...
im hoping when i split the engine there is no damage to the rotor housings or the rotors. ..
im hopeful. ..50 psi per rotor face on both...evenly worn or so it seems. Engine ran with no rattles and still powered the car down the road quite fast while it wasn't in bits...😂all the delicate sensors are in the drivers door pocket...and the oil cooler clips...boy where they a pain to seperate
Storage for all the engine ancillaries 😂
Open to advice /experience on the seals
Last edited by dalippy; 04-09-2017 at 04:49 PM.
Reason: mistake
There are a couple of good video tutorials out and take your time filing the correct lengths and angles. I would like to buy an engine to "practice " on and learn my way around inside. My daughter's trunk looks the same lol
. I'm a avid and pretty skilled mechanic. I love rotories but this has been a pain. I rebuilt it with all new/barely used parts. All clearances and everything was done to the book. To the letter. And now it just cranks all day but no start. Figuring it was a grounding or injector connection problem I went through it again and everything seems perfect. It's getting air, fuel (sometimes too much LoL), compression, and spark but yet no start. So I tow started it and it sat there and idled perfectly. I could get out and let it idle on its own. So now I'm thinking it's not spinning fast enough to start, not enough current, but the battery is charged and passes the load test. Grounds seem to be solid. I'm dumbfounded. I did everything. Deflooding over and over, brake stomp, I know for a fact that the injector and spark plug wires are correct, etc. It can't be stuck in limp mode because the engine started before the rebuild (off of one rotor though ��). This is not my first engine rebuild but it is my first rotary rebuild is there any simple mistakes first time rotary rebuilders make? I have done research online, in person, and over the phone, and I'm lost. I'm at a dead end. I don't want to sell it as it was once an amazing peice of driving machine. Thank you ahead of time!
. I'm a avid and pretty skilled mechanic. I love rotories but this has been a pain. I rebuilt it with all new/barely used parts. All clearances and everything was done to the book. To the letter. And now it just cranks all day but no start. Figuring it was a grounding or injector connection problem I went through it again and everything seems perfect. It's getting air, fuel (sometimes too much LoL), compression, and spark but yet no start. So I tow started it and it sat there and idled perfectly. I could get out and let it idle on its own. So now I'm thinking it's not spinning fast enough to start, not enough current, but the battery is charged and passes the load test. Grounds seem to be solid. I'm dumbfounded. I did everything. Deflooding over and over, brake stomp, I know for a fact that the injector and spark plug wires are correct, etc. It can't be stuck in limp mode because the engine started before the rebuild (off of one rotor though ��). This is not my first engine rebuild but it is my first rotary rebuild is there any simple mistakes first time rotary rebuilders make? I have done research online, in person, and over the phone, and I'm lost. I'm at a dead end. I don't want to sell it as it was once an amazing peice of driving machine. Thank you ahead of time!
are you completely sure all 4 coils are firing...its not uncommon for one or more coils to go bad....
it should bring up a a misfire fault in the ecu bringing up an engine light. ..but you never know. ..i got one of those clear spark plug testers to check each coil before i stripped the engine.
On another note i got similar symptoms on a Renault i was working on for someone else ...i replaced the crank shaft sensor..and it was sorted. ..a bad eccentric shaft sensor could be your problem. ..
I've seen it a heap of times in piston engines...
it produces no fault light...i even read the ecu on the Renault. ..no fault code.. .
get a 2nd hand mazda one...or if you have a multimeter ..disconnect the eccentric shaft sensor...get someone to turn the engine over whilst putting the probes of the multimeter on the sensor terminals..you should get a reading coming and going if its working ok.
Last edited by dalippy; 04-24-2017 at 12:58 PM.
Reason: spelling
04-09-2017, 12:59 PM
