Any help?

I don't understand your question slidin8, OE counter weight and flywheel are all one cast piece.

Automatics have a separate counterweight. Manuals have the counterweight cast into the flywheel.

Yes, you can use the OEM auto c/w as long as the flywheel is neutrally balanced .

yep

Looking for NA A/F range

Idle/cruise=14.2

What's considered acceptable under load? 10,11,12?

I was under the impression anything lower than 12 was considered to rich and not healthy?

Tail light trouble
 

I have a probably dumb question. The running lights in the tail light assembly have gone out. (the little side possibly LED ones) I have taken the assembly off but still cant access them. Do I have to replace the whole assembly just for the two smallest cheapest lights? that wouldn't be a surprise but I really hope not. :fingersx:

Lowest the OEM O2 will read is 11.X.

On the oem map mine goes into the 11's for WOT. Idling/cruising (fully warmed) should be 14.7ish as long as you are not in open loop.

Yes, you have to replace the entire assembly.

Anyone have any thought on whether this is worth it or just a waste of money?

Could you explain this part further for me.

From my understanding, the car decides if it is in open loop or closed loop based on; Gear/rpm/load.
In closed loop it aims for 14.7 (+/- 0.3)
In open loop it follows the cart I posted (1st/2nd gear fuel map).

If you like can post the other maps when I get off.

Open loop runs almost as rich as WOT conditions it seems.

I am new to tuning, I take it the 1=14.7 and the percentiles are derived from that ex .72 (14.7) means its aiming for 10.6 correct?

Also note this is for the 04/05 years. +06 is slightly different.

One last question, due the injectors fire at the same time the valves open?

Ex, SSV approx 3.3K RPM, do the seconday injectors also start firing right away or are they controlled by a different set of parameters?

Same for APV?

Sorry I'm not sure. I did read a very old thread that stated the injectors work off of load/rpm but by 5.5k they are on.

I know with the Cobb you can adjust when the valves open.

Im curious why more people have not played around with that feature, I don't see how having the SSV opening early can hurt you, i know FI guys keep VDI open all the time. HAs anyone tried that with the SSV and APV.

I'd guess that Mazda got the right valve opening points. Like there is a similar, but simple single valve in the 1999-2000 Miata, which opens at 5,400rpm or something. People spent a lot of time playing around with the ideal opening point, and found that Mazda had it spot on. Closed for an entire pull overlayed with open for an entire pull had the crossing point at the right RPM already.


Keeping them permanently open for FI makes sense, because with FI the benefit is heavily reduced anyway, and having to deal with a sudden change of air flow not only complicates tuning but could lead to an easier lean spike.

I've messed with the VDI and APV but it seems Mazda got it pretty close to perfect. Right now my APV opens 200rpms sooner, no dyno numbers but I feel a bigger jump in power . VDI I ended up putting back.

antone have a chart of rpm and maf voltage correspondence for the 8? I dunno what the voltage should be at exaclty an rpm ranges. (trying to diagnose if MAF is causing me issues)

MAF V is corespondent to MAF g/s. Which is the amount of air entering the engine which is determined by much more than just RPM. You will need to look at load and throttle position to I believe.

i understand that. but i just wanna see if my MAF is deffective or not. I'm pretty sure, even if sitting still, at ~6k RPM, the voltage would be more than 2.96V. I mean thats what I would think. I've been searching but there seems to not be any correlative charts.

One of the tuning methods that has been used is "MAF scaling", which basically changes the table of what MAF voltage means what g/s airflow. It is not a fixed relationship, can vary from car to car, and can even be deliberately altered.

yea, well my knowledge of tuning is very limited as now i am about to start reading the jeff hartman tuning book and read everything on here. but in accordance with the issues I have I think my MAF isn't quite up to par and isn't helping my case so i wanted to check that it was doint the right things at the right times before I scaled it and started down that road

Well, there isn't a fixed relationship that you can compare against :)