awesome thanks for the advice guys!
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what does it mean if shift knob (the whole shift stick) is shaking when idling?
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Originally Posted by gorx8
(Post 4330474)
what does it mean if shift knob (the whole shift stick) is shaking when idling?
However if you feel its excessive the likely cause is a bad motors mount. A common problem in earlier models. |
Originally Posted by EricB
(Post 4328666)
bride lowmax with bride rails give the lowest possible seating position IIRC
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would a reflash prevents problem?
if doing a performance reflash to lean out instead of have a very rich with stock, would it prevent problems that leads to changing coil/spark plugs/wires?
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Originally Posted by gorx8
(Post 4331131)
if doing a performance reflash to lean out instead of have a very rich with stock, would it prevent problems that leads to changing coil/spark plugs/wires?
The lastest OEM coil from Mazda is suppose to be better and last longer. I've not tried them, I'm still using my BHR coils. Maybe someone else can verify this statement |
There are some 04-06 engines are faulty (manufacture defect or whatever you might call it) so those inevitably will fail regardless of how good of a maintenance or driving style it might be.
Let me ask about the rest of the good ones, a car sales manager who had a FD said that, "just warm up the car and let it idle couple minutes before turning off, (on top of all the regular maintenance) the car would run forever". Is that it? (On top of what the newbie thread says) |
Everything you just posted is based on misinformation. Not strictly incorrect, but distorted heavily.
A) There are no "faulty engines" based on year. Simply the Renesis design has weak points. These weak points were addressed with outside changes over the years, but it doesn't mean any of them are "faulty" to begin with, OR that any range of engines is safe from dying due to any of the standard methods of rotary death. B) Maintenance and driving style do impact engine lifespan, but there is no range of engines that is pre-determined to fail or succeed based on maintenance or drivestyle. C) Warming up the car before driving and/or turning off is a good idea all around. However it does not impact engine life. Just whether or not it's flooded. Though flooding can kill your cat, and a failed cat can kill your engine. But it's not a direct correlation. D) If you are interested in extending the life of your engine, or preventing the failure points, see post #9 in my new owner's thread (first link in my sig). Lots more too it than "just that". |
Originally Posted by wcs
(Post 4331173)
The lastest OEM coil from Mazda is suppose to be better and last longer. I've not tried them, I'm still using my BHR coils. Maybe someone else can verify this statement https://www.rx8club.com/series-ii-te...pdated-232530/ |
Originally Posted by wcs
(Post 4331546)
Found this with a simple search WCS you noob
https://www.rx8club.com/series-ii-te...pdated-232530/ |
how do you spray wiper fluid on your windshield. In most cars there is a button on your turn signal knob. Not on this car, where is the button? screen shot appreciated.
INB4 "use the search function" INB4 "he's trolling" INB4 "What a stupid question" INB4 other rx8club cliche's. INB4 INB4 |
Originally Posted by FernandoVenezuela
(Post 4331583)
how do you spray wiper fluid on your windshield. In most cars there is a button on your turn signal knob. Not on this car, where is the button? screen shot appreciated.
INB4 "use the search function" INB4 "he's trolling" INB4 "What a stupid question" INB4 other rx8club cliche's. INB4 INB4 |
You pull the right side lever towards you and hold it for a few seconds until your window has achieved the cleanliness you desire and voila.
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pull back on the handle on the right of the steering wheel. Opposite the turn signal.
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CAT-last line of defense (so to speak)
Originally Posted by RIWWP
(Post 4331418)
Everything you just posted is based on misinformation. Not strictly incorrect, but distorted heavily.
A) There are no "faulty engines" based on year. Simply the Renesis design has weak points. These weak points were addressed with outside changes over the years, but it doesn't mean any of them are "faulty" to begin with, OR that any range of engines is safe from dying due to any of the standard methods of rotary death. B) Maintenance and driving style do impact engine lifespan, but there is no range of engines that is pre-determined to fail or succeed based on maintenance or drivestyle. C) Warming up the car before driving and/or turning off is a good idea all around. However it does not impact engine life. Just whether or not it's flooded. Though flooding can kill your cat, and a failed cat can kill your engine. But it's not a direct correlation. D) If you are interested in extending the life of your engine, or preventing the failure points, see post #9 in my new owner's thread (first link in my sig). Lots more too it than "just that". Thank you btw! so on top of everything you've talked about. Of course it is a collaboration of doing everything to keep the car alive. Can I assume upgrading a CAT would be the last line of defense? |
Originally Posted by gorx8
(Post 4331629)
Thank you btw!
so on top of everything you've talked about. Of course it is a collaboration of doing everything to keep the car alive. Can I assume upgrading a CAT would be the last line of defense? |
Removing your cat would probably be best for your engines life and for your worries, but if you can't then getting a high flow cat (a good one) would be your next best option. But the oem cat is pretty good itself, hence the high price and the fact that it can last a good while before going bad. Most generic aftermarket cats can go bad with less than 10k miles on them because of the cars high exhaust temperature.
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Is it okay to install a used clutch or should I just get a new?
clutch went out last week I have a used one but I have know way of getting the pressure plate resurfaced, nor do I have a way of getting the clutch disc relined. would it be okay to use the old used clutch, and a new fly wheel? or is this a bad idea? |
oem cat life span
Originally Posted by Emery_
(Post 4331642)
Removing your cat would probably be best for your engines life and for your worries, but if you can't then getting a high flow cat (a good one) would be your next best option. But the oem cat is pretty good itself, hence the high price and the fact that it can last a good while before going bad. Most generic aftermarket cats can go bad with less than 10k miles on them because of the cars high exhaust temperature.
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Two questions
When letting the rpms fly as if im racing and such, I hear a turbo noise when I shift and my rx8 is stock just wondering what it is, or if its just rotary being rotary 2nd When starting my car cold/warm it takes a good 3-5 seconds of turning the key before it wants to starts, any suggestions? |
Originally Posted by badhaircutkid
(Post 4331669)
Two questions
When letting the rpms fly as if im racing and such, I hear a turbo noise when I shift and my rx8 is stock just wondering what it is, or if its just rotary being rotary 2nd When starting my car cold/warm it takes a good 3-5 seconds of turning the key before it wants to starts, any suggestions? 2) What year is your car and how much mileage. Hard start is typically ignition (coils) issues or low compression. 2a) Do you have the upgraded starter? |
Originally Posted by wcs
(Post 4331680)
1) What part of a turbo noise? The wheeeeeeeeEEEEEEEEEEE or the Psssshfffffffffffff
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Originally Posted by badhaircutkid
(Post 4331669)
Two questions
When letting the rpms fly as if im racing and such, I hear a turbo noise when I shift and my rx8 is stock just wondering what it is, or if its just rotary being rotary 2nd When starting my car cold/warm it takes a good 3-5 seconds of turning the key before it wants to starts, any suggestions? The lower speed starter on the early production models (2004 - 2005) would crank longer after the anti-flood-reflash. Check the starter part number. If you have N3H1-18-400 then replace it with N3Z1-18-400 |
I'm getting road nose, that increases with speed, seemingly from the driver front wheel of the vehicle (at least that's how it sounds from the Driver's seat.) Kind of a low, repetitive hum at low speeds, but as I get up toward highway speeds, the rate of the repetitions increases along with the volume. At higher speeds, sounds a little like when (as a kid) you used to put a balloon against the spokes of your bike to try to simulate the sound of a motor.
Any guesses on what this might be? Thx. |
Originally Posted by WellThen
(Post 4331700)
I'm getting road nose, that increases with speed, seemingly from the driver front wheel of the vehicle (at least that's how it sounds from the Driver's seat.) Kind of a low, repetitive hum at low speeds, but as I get up toward highway speeds, the rate of the repetitions increases along with the volume. At higher speeds, sounds a little like when (as a kid) you used to put a balloon against the spokes of your bike to try to simulate the sound of a motor.
Any guesses on what this might be? Thx. Any recent large impacts, bumps or damage? |
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