Driving in Icy conditions
#26
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You should see Florida. All summer it rains for half of the day, every single day, and every single day, as soon as the first drops of rain hit the ground the drivers lose even MORE of their minds. It's pretty incredible, you'd think they'd have figured out what's happening by now.
#27
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Recently drove my wifes 2005 RX8 in a blanket of hail (Southern Orange County, California) not a normal occurance in my town. Found the vehicle very difficult to drive in the icy condition. Brakes were terrible, car slid like it was ice skating. To be honest it had,by far, the worst handling charateristics of any vehicle I have ever driven. Once on the wet surface, it was great, as usual. Anyone else comment on this. Really surprised me. Tried a search, but couldn't find info.
and what vech can you tell me drives well over ice?
because i would like to have this vech. i stil havent found a car that drives awesome over ice.
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So are you saying you should buy a smaller rim for winter tires, like a 16 or 17?
Also, bear with me because I've never bought tires before, but it you get a smaller rim, you would need to get a tire with a larger wall to keep the same OD and keep the speedometer accurate, right? Unless that's accounted for in those xxx-xx-xx numbers that people always talk about when they talk about tire size.
#32
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Correct. 17" is the lowest you can go if you have anything above the base model. Base Auto is really the only one that can go down to a 16 i think. Brake calipers don't fit inside rims smaller than that.
Use this calculator if you go with different sizes than stock (stock is 225/40/18 18x9 55? ET)
http://www.wheelsmaster.com/rt_specs.jsp
IT will tell you what the changes in diameter and such are.
225/40/18 18x9 breaks down to:
225 millimeter wide tread
40% of the tread width is the sidewall height
18 inches is the size of rim it is intended for
18 inches is the rim diameter
9 inches is the rim width.
Going down to 17s generally increases the sidewall height, which improves flexibility (stiff rubber is one of the problems in cold on all-seasons or summers), as well as generally people go with a thinner tread width to cut into snow better (increased pounds per square inch of contact patch, since same weight + smaller patch = more psi) They are also generally cheaper than 18s.
The OP doesn't need them in SoCal, but you should seriously consider it on LI
Use this calculator if you go with different sizes than stock (stock is 225/40/18 18x9 55? ET)
http://www.wheelsmaster.com/rt_specs.jsp
IT will tell you what the changes in diameter and such are.
225/40/18 18x9 breaks down to:
225 millimeter wide tread
40% of the tread width is the sidewall height
18 inches is the size of rim it is intended for
18 inches is the rim diameter
9 inches is the rim width.
Going down to 17s generally increases the sidewall height, which improves flexibility (stiff rubber is one of the problems in cold on all-seasons or summers), as well as generally people go with a thinner tread width to cut into snow better (increased pounds per square inch of contact patch, since same weight + smaller patch = more psi) They are also generally cheaper than 18s.
The OP doesn't need them in SoCal, but you should seriously consider it on LI
#33
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Correct. 17" is the lowest you can go if you have anything above the base model. Base Auto is really the only one that can go down to a 16 i think. Brake calipers don't fit inside rims smaller than that.
Use this calculator if you go with different sizes than stock (stock is 225/40/18 18x9 55? ET)
http://www.wheelsmaster.com/rt_specs.jsp
IT will tell you what the changes in diameter and such are.
225/40/18 18x9 breaks down to:
225 millimeter wide tread
40% of the tread width is the sidewall height
18 inches is the size of rim it is intended for
18 inches is the rim diameter
9 inches is the rim width.
Going down to 17s generally increases the sidewall height, which improves flexibility (stiff rubber is one of the problems in cold on all-seasons or summers), as well as generally people go with a thinner tread width to cut into snow better (increased pounds per square inch of contact patch, since same weight + smaller patch = more psi) They are also generally cheaper than 18s.
The OP doesn't need them in SoCal, but you should seriously consider it on LI
Use this calculator if you go with different sizes than stock (stock is 225/40/18 18x9 55? ET)
http://www.wheelsmaster.com/rt_specs.jsp
IT will tell you what the changes in diameter and such are.
225/40/18 18x9 breaks down to:
225 millimeter wide tread
40% of the tread width is the sidewall height
18 inches is the size of rim it is intended for
18 inches is the rim diameter
9 inches is the rim width.
Going down to 17s generally increases the sidewall height, which improves flexibility (stiff rubber is one of the problems in cold on all-seasons or summers), as well as generally people go with a thinner tread width to cut into snow better (increased pounds per square inch of contact patch, since same weight + smaller patch = more psi) They are also generally cheaper than 18s.
The OP doesn't need them in SoCal, but you should seriously consider it on LI
Awesome info, thanks. I'm going to be buying one probably in the next few weeks, so I'll probably be able to wait until next winter to make the investment. I'll definitely check that stuff out.
#34
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So are you saying you should buy a smaller rim for winter tires, like a 16 or 17?
Also, bear with me because I've never bought tires before, but it you get a smaller rim, you would need to get a tire with a larger wall to keep the same OD and keep the speedometer accurate, right? Unless that's accounted for in those xxx-xx-xx numbers that people always talk about when they talk about tire size.
Also, bear with me because I've never bought tires before, but it you get a smaller rim, you would need to get a tire with a larger wall to keep the same OD and keep the speedometer accurate, right? Unless that's accounted for in those xxx-xx-xx numbers that people always talk about when they talk about tire size.
Simplest thing to do is to go to tirerack.com and look at their recommended winter tire packages for the RX-8. Look at both 17" (which they do recommend) and 18" versions. The price difference between the two sizes is impressive. Amazing that the better choice is also cheaper.
Since you've never bought tires before, I really recommend that you do some research at on-line tire vendors web sites, and also ask questions here. Don't just walk into a tire store and let them sell you what they happen to have.
Ken
#35
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This crazy Canadian did what many are suggesting above in this thread.
Bought my 40th anniversary edition in october and immediately put on a set of Toyo Observe Garit XK's on simple steel rims. Dropped down a size a just a little in width to arrive at a set of 215/55R17.
My understanding is that the width can't be reduced too much due to adverse affects on the suspension components.
First winter drive in the car occured on a 200km drive from a neighboring city after a trip to mexico. I could see how shiny the world was as the plane was landing. About 3 days earlier, there was a heavy rain that occurred just above freezing and turned to snow as the temperature dropped to about -20C.
It was only a white knuckle ride because I'd only owned the 8 for about 3 weeks and hadn't tested the handling yet. Obviously I took the speed easy, particularly accellerating through corners.
The 8 handled the ice like a champ, corners, steep grades, everything that mountainous B.C. driving can throw at it. I only saw the DSC kick in once when I hit a corner over the rated speed limit for it. Normally I find I can just about double corner speed in the 8, but on ice it ate them up at a good clip.
Of course, the even weight distribution helps tremendously.
Since then I've got much more used to the handle characteristics of the 8 and find that it handles a Canadian winter as well or better as anything else I've driving providing I take it easy on the gas around the corners. The complaint of low torque may be true by comparison to other performance automobiles, but it has loads of torque for its weight on snow and ice by comparison to most other vehicles on the road.
Cheers,
t
Bought my 40th anniversary edition in october and immediately put on a set of Toyo Observe Garit XK's on simple steel rims. Dropped down a size a just a little in width to arrive at a set of 215/55R17.
My understanding is that the width can't be reduced too much due to adverse affects on the suspension components.
First winter drive in the car occured on a 200km drive from a neighboring city after a trip to mexico. I could see how shiny the world was as the plane was landing. About 3 days earlier, there was a heavy rain that occurred just above freezing and turned to snow as the temperature dropped to about -20C.
It was only a white knuckle ride because I'd only owned the 8 for about 3 weeks and hadn't tested the handling yet. Obviously I took the speed easy, particularly accellerating through corners.
The 8 handled the ice like a champ, corners, steep grades, everything that mountainous B.C. driving can throw at it. I only saw the DSC kick in once when I hit a corner over the rated speed limit for it. Normally I find I can just about double corner speed in the 8, but on ice it ate them up at a good clip.
Of course, the even weight distribution helps tremendously.
Since then I've got much more used to the handle characteristics of the 8 and find that it handles a Canadian winter as well or better as anything else I've driving providing I take it easy on the gas around the corners. The complaint of low torque may be true by comparison to other performance automobiles, but it has loads of torque for its weight on snow and ice by comparison to most other vehicles on the road.
Cheers,
t
#36
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So are you saying you should buy a smaller rim for winter tires, like a 16 or 17?
Also, bear with me because I've never bought tires before, but it you get a smaller rim, you would need to get a tire with a larger wall to keep the same OD and keep the speedometer accurate, right? Unless that's accounted for in those xxx-xx-xx numbers that people always talk about when they talk about tire size.
Also, bear with me because I've never bought tires before, but it you get a smaller rim, you would need to get a tire with a larger wall to keep the same OD and keep the speedometer accurate, right? Unless that's accounted for in those xxx-xx-xx numbers that people always talk about when they talk about tire size.
yeah, go with a set of 17's. I bought mine from www.discouttire.com. They have sets that come mounted and balanced with free shipping. There not the greatest looking rims (not really ugly either, just plane and simple). I paid 980 I believe with the road hazard warranty (theres gives you a brand new tire, not pro rated like most companys do.)
#39
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#40
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Unless you can DIY, in which case just buy from the on-line stores.
I have winter tires on my stock 18s and have zero problems. The 8 eats snow storms even with the bigger size. I just couldn't do plain jane smaller wheels.
#41
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It's all about the shoes. I watched a jeep this morning spinning all 4 tires trying to get through the crap that fell last night and I just backed out and left and it was all because of tires. He had some worn down gran-touring tires and I have dunlop winter sport M3's.
#42
Wow! Thanks for the replies!
Having driven in snow, ice, hail and all, in every type of vehicle, I was just surprised at how badly the car handled. Granted the tires are stock "all seasons" but jeesh, my 2WD Yukon and Dodge Ram handled much better. Luckily hail happens once every ten years around here, and I'll just avoid it next time.
Again, thanks for most of the replies, very insightful and informative.
Having driven in snow, ice, hail and all, in every type of vehicle, I was just surprised at how badly the car handled. Granted the tires are stock "all seasons" but jeesh, my 2WD Yukon and Dodge Ram handled much better. Luckily hail happens once every ten years around here, and I'll just avoid it next time.
Again, thanks for most of the replies, very insightful and informative.
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