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Auto trans intake manifold on manual?

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Old 03-17-2009, 01:03 AM
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Auto trans intake manifold on manual?

I need to replace my entire intake manifold (because my dealer said so), and the prices here are _madness_. They want something like 2850usd for just the part. I've got the 192 HP 5-speed manual trans. I checked at onlinemazdaparts and found this one:

intake manifold, rx-8, auto trans 04-07 $1,230.58 $1,015.23

Will this be a perfect fit to my car or will I have any issues? Any idea where I can get the part number for that intake manifold so I can get the local Mazda here check whether it'll fit or not?
Old 03-17-2009, 01:13 AM
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man i really wish you could just buy the one i have lol... make it fit!
Old 03-17-2009, 01:22 AM
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Yours is a four port. It should be the same manifold.
I wish I had one for you but alas I do not.

Only thing is you do not want anything newer than a 2005 manifold. 2004/2005 are 4 ports.
Anything newer will be a 6 port in the US.
Old 03-17-2009, 01:41 AM
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Hm ok. Do you know where I could get the part number for it?
Old 03-17-2009, 01:51 AM
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AZ

Originally Posted by Ryoma-kun
Hm ok. Do you know where I could get the part number for it?
Not at this time of the night.
Old 03-17-2009, 01:54 AM
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Originally Posted by G3tR3DDY2GR3DDY
man i really wish you could just buy the one i have lol... make it fit!
Can't I just freeze the last two remaining ports?
Old 03-17-2009, 02:10 AM
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On a 4 port engine, the 2 outer/secondary intake ports are larger than the same 2 on a 6 port engine. On a 6 port engine, the 2 outer secondary lower ports are medium sized, and the 2 upper auxiliary sleeve ports are very large.

Since the 4 port did not have the auxiliary ports at all, mazda enlarged the lower secondary ports somewhat.

So yes, a 6 port manifold will bolt up to your engine although the port runners may not be 100% the same size, it should work without major issues. You'd have to remove the 6 port sleeves/actuation system and block off those intake port holes via welding (or whatever other method you feel confident in).

You could also just take your existing manifold off, and either lubricate/free up the existing (presumably stuck) rotating port sleeves inside, OR if you cannot, remove them entirely and leave the chamber open...worst case scenario you'd have a mild loss of low end torque and a bit more engine intake noise at lower rpm. This may trigger a CEL as the PCM keeps up with the position of these valves as it tries to open and close them, but the running of the engine should not be affected.

It should not be terribly hard to find a set of intake manifolds from a 4 port here in the US...there are plenty of 04's being parted out now as they get wrecked.
Old 03-17-2009, 02:39 AM
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
On a 4 port engine, the 2 outer/secondary intake ports are larger than the same 2 on a 6 port engine. On a 6 port engine, the 2 outer secondary lower ports are medium sized, and the 2 upper auxiliary sleeve ports are very large.

Since the 4 port did not have the auxiliary ports at all, mazda enlarged the lower secondary ports somewhat.

So yes, a 6 port manifold will bolt up to your engine although the port runners may not be 100% the same size, it should work without major issues. You'd have to remove the 6 port sleeves/actuation system and block off those intake port holes via welding (or whatever other method you feel confident in).

You could also just take your existing manifold off, and either lubricate/free up the existing (presumably stuck) rotating port sleeves inside, OR if you cannot, remove them entirely and leave the chamber open...worst case scenario you'd have a mild loss of low end torque and a bit more engine intake noise at lower rpm. This may trigger a CEL as the PCM keeps up with the position of these valves as it tries to open and close them, but the running of the engine should not be affected.

It should not be terribly hard to find a set of intake manifolds from a 4 port here in the US...there are plenty of 04's being parted out now as they get wrecked.
Ok, as far as I know, one of the valves didn't work as it should and had to be replaced. They told me the valves don't come seperate and I'd have to order a complete manifold. I don't really wanna bother trying to make a 6-port manifold work and I'm not really interested in having loss of low-end torque either (the torque already sucks ^^), so my only option is getting an entire manifold or getting a seperate valve somehow.

Since I'm located in Europe I don't really know where to look for a used 4-port manifold so any help would be appreciated and I could also pay someone a small amount of cash if they would help me get a manifold shipped over here.
Old 03-17-2009, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Ryoma-kun
Ok, as far as I know, one of the valves didn't work as it should and had to be replaced. They told me the valves don't come seperate and I'd have to order a complete manifold.
The valves just get stuck in position and won't rotate like they should due to inactivity and carbon buildup. IT is usually possible to remove the manifold and soak it in a parts washing tank or spray a lot of lubricant down into the valve area and get it moving again by working with it slowly. This has happened with every variable intake rotary since 1984...if you don't drive the car hard at least a couple of times per day, the valves do not get opened and then they get stuck, and you then lose the future ability to open the valves and have full power from then on.



I don't really wanna bother trying to make a 6-port manifold work and I'm not really interested in having loss of low-end torque either (the torque already sucks ^^), so my only option is getting an entire manifold or getting a seperate valve somehow.
But you're interested in buying a new manifold for 1 or 2 thousand dollars?

I think I would gladly take a few ft-lb loss of low end torque to save that kind of money. And I also think I would gladly take the time to modify a 6 port manifold to work on your engine, again to save that kind of money. But that is just me.
Old 03-17-2009, 01:57 PM
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Firstly, I drive my car very hard, I rarely drive without redlining atleast every 10 minute or so. Secondly, I'm experiencing no loss of power whatsoever as far as I know, it's only making a 'clicking sound' during idle when engine is hot. This should mean that it's not one of the higher valves that's stuck right? As far as I understood from the dealer, the valve can't be fixed even if cleaned, only replaced.

Furthermore, I'm pretty much mechanically challenged and I don't have any idea how to strip down the manifold, even less how to modify a 6-port to work for my car.
Old 03-17-2009, 02:07 PM
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Did you check with Paul at MAZMart?

He is one of our vendors.
Old 03-17-2009, 02:23 PM
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Read the threads on freeing the SSV......If you have a 4 port that is the only valve that would stick that would matter

It's an easy fix...hell I'm sure someone could help you..if you can change plugs you can do this
Old 03-17-2009, 03:07 PM
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Aren't there other valves than the SSV one?
Old 03-17-2009, 03:10 PM
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I think the VDI also...but it opens at high RPM's.....You don't have the APV which is the difficult to deal with one.....
Old 03-17-2009, 03:26 PM
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But I find it so weird that mine is neither stuck open or closed. I don't feel any difference except the sound during idle either.
Old 03-17-2009, 03:32 PM
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What's it doing?
Old 03-17-2009, 03:38 PM
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If I only knew that... I don't know how to translate my Dealer's explanation into English. But something like it's working like crazy opening and closing during idle or something If I posted a soundclip, would it help?
Old 03-17-2009, 03:41 PM
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Does it go click click click?

It is likely the actuator that needs replacing.....if the diaphragm isn't holding a vac the solenoid will cycle on/off/on/off trying to get it to stay open
Old 03-17-2009, 03:42 PM
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Any CEL codes listed?
Old 03-17-2009, 03:43 PM
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Yup that's most likely it.

Edit: No, never got a CEL before.
Old 03-17-2009, 03:48 PM
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Do you know where the actuator is?

Look for the noise if you don't.....you can see if the valve is moving by turning the shaft the actuator is hooked to

Actuator looks like a gold mushroom with a lever coming out of it

Get them to check if the actuator holds a Vac.....
Old 03-17-2009, 03:49 PM
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Is it possible to only replace the actuator if I got ahold of a used one?
Old 03-17-2009, 03:52 PM
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Thread is bugging -,- Oh well, vac as in vacuum? Checking that by rotating the valve manually? Yes I somewhat know where the actuator is located but not sure how to rotate and check the valves.
Old 03-17-2009, 03:52 PM
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Or remove the tube and put on a small length of tubing...suck on it and see if it allows you to suck through it...if it does it's broken...if it doesn't it's good
Old 03-17-2009, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Ryoma-kun
Is it possible to only replace the actuator if I got ahold of a used one?

of course.....you could buy a new on for about $80mI think....

Hell I have a couple in the garage


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