Uhmmm what meter were u lookin at?!?!?!? The only oil meter is the oil pressure gauge on ur dashtop....the ONLY way of checking oil is to look at the dipstick....

 

I certainly hope he meant the dipstick!
I think it's impossible to get that dummy gauge to move that much!

 

dude i honestly think what happened here was the OP was going off the oil pressure guage and was driving normally for a month without ever checking oil or topping off. If thats the case then you should be lucky your engine is still compressed!

 

Maybe I'm just reading it wrong again, but how on Earth would you get the dummy gauge to read like that? He said this stalling has only occurred once right?
If he was going off the dummy gauge(which he said it was full but topped it off), wouldn't he have so much oil in the car it would be oozing out of every orifice and all over the place?
I'm not looking at my car obviously but I'm assuming that to build enough pressure to have that dummy gauge move all the way to the right takes more oil as opposed to less correct......and a huge amount, if it could even be done?

 

i'd really hope so lol...

 

nooooooo, when i said meter, i meant dipstick.

lol

that would have been tragic

the dipstick was showing completly full, and i hadn't touched the oil in about a month.

 

Okay so i went back and looked at that injection coil inspection.

This is exactly what was wrong last time. They replaced all of them, i believe. It was only 4 ( just speculation ) in the 04 AT. There was something wrong and it had something to do with the white spots it made. I do remember this. So i am kind of canceling the idea out in the back of my head that it is injection coils.

 

Phew!

Now.....back on track. Hopefully it won't happen again(the stalling), if it does....see my previous post, cause if it's none of those......it starts to get expensive.

 

Okay....agreed.......but how many miles since they did that(the coils)?
Go make sure all your plug wires are seated good on both ends.
If mileage is approaching 60k or so(and now I see that it is), I think I'd replace the plug wires.
If you know how to use an ohm meter, you could actually check the resistance of those.
When was your last plug change?

 

Maybe just do a compression test in the future just in case..

 

Hey, I have the exact same problems and I've kinda came to the conclusion why after observations of the situations.I was messing with a supra on the highway(not racing just pacing a little, non turbo btw.) I redlined it like 2-3 times then we came to traffic. I put the windows up and air on and the car felt like it was sputtering a little so I turned air off and windows down, I exited freeway just in case it took a poo I wouldnt be in the middle of traffic. I came to stop sign and proceeded through when the car stalled out and wouldn't start. I let it sit for about 6-7 min(still at stop sign with cars honking) and it started up but when I came to another stop it started sputtering again so I kept a lil rev goin so it wouldn't die again. I let the car sit at a friends for about 30 min and there were no signs of the previous symptoms. This happened again after taking some friends out on a few turns running it hard, and yet again with the sputtering after a few redlines but didn't die. The car had the coils changed last January so that was off the list, I have no cat, and the plugs and wires were changed recently. This IMO is due to the motor "overheating." I say "overheating" cause technically it isn't overheating but the heat is at a point where the renesis cannot function properly. The days that the problems occured were all easily 95+ degrees and i'm sure a relatively high humidity. Mazda looked at the car and pretty much what I took from it was "your car is fine, ur an idiot." Obviously Mazda can't simulate the same symptoms cause I doubt they will run it the way I had did. Given I know NOTHING about these engines, this is what I can assume is the problem, and since your weather is about same with more humidity than San Antonio, this could be happening to you. Best advice is to do what everyone else said and thats to change ur plugs and wires. I also read somewhere that the overheating, and torque loss(the hesitation to take off) are a sign of low compression, can anyone validate this? BTW I drive an 06 auto. Hope this helps, and remember this is only what I can take from the driving circumstances and the exact similarities. GL with the problems and let us know what happens.

 

this car isn't a daily driver. i drive prob 10-15 miles sometimes up to 30 a day but haven't taken it on trips or anything. i bought it at 55k in jan, had the 60k check up done in feb, which means new spark plugs, new injection coils in june. So this was all in the last 3K miles, which really isn't any mileage at all.

In the morning when the engine cools off i'll double check the plug wires.

but do you think the cat converter might have anything to do with it? because i KNOW they never check it.

 

Thanks for the info man. Overheating was sitting in the back of my mind too. The first two times it happened, it was in dead heat after sitting in a parking lot for 8 hours. During May. Took it to the dealership, ran some tests, took it out and couldn't replicate the results. I couldn't really be like " well, why don't you drive like a bat out of hell, and maybe you'll see what i saw". Another consistency was when the AC was blaring it stalled. turned it off and it was *slightly* better.

If this is a sign of low compression, i think I should sell it.

Does taking off the cover for the renisis do anything? just a thought... Generally air move better when things are open.. *shrug*

Yet today, the high was 83? Hm.

 

Well.....it's only done it once recently, so can't really say until it becomes more consistent.
If it was the CAT, you can usually climb under there and shake it and see if anything rattles around inside. Sometimes the comb stuff comes loose and that's bad.
I think you'd be throwing a CEL if it was anything real bad, and you said it isn't. This happened after your first redline of the day, so I don't think it's that heat related as someone said above.....but you never know.

I'm grasping at straws now.........what octane you running?

 

87 >.<

 

yea but keep in mind that the CEL came on before they tested it last monday, it failed emissions test, and they reset the cel. i have only put maybe 50-60 miles on it since last week.,

 

I say run that 87 gas out of it, and use high octane from now on. I think that would help.

 

maybe you should look into getting a new engine under the 100,000 warranty?

 

Free engines ftw.

 

Mazda dealership said it was under 100k warranty now..?



Anyways, i drove it again today. Everything worked fine.

I have a new idea on what is happening though. Sure the only really consistency is it being hot, but now that i realize it, i think it might have something to do with blasting the ac on 4. Possible loss of power maybe?? Any suggestions?

another thing i noted today was extremly low gas mileage... im at a little over a half tank with only 45 miles this tank. ???

 

wait.. are you saying that if something is really wrong with the engine.. free engine??

damn.

 

The engines are covered under a 100k mile/8 year *I think 8 year..* warranty.
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discussion-3/8-years-100-000-mi-extended-warranty-147287/

 

should i get a compression test on it then?

 

If you can't figure out the problem I probably would. Depending on your dealership, some may give you the run around. According to stories on here.

 

what do you mean by that?