2005 rx8 75k miles, should i buy?
03-10-2012, 07:37 AM
#26
Well I finally got it. They replaced the spark plugs and oil pressure sensor, and it seems to be good to go now. Dont get me wrong it still has its issues, and hopefully they will fix them for me.
Yesterday I took it on a 2.5 hour drive through a snow storm, and I started hearing on the way home, a weird sound (like that of boiling water) coming from inside the airbag compartment on the passengers side. They just replaced a wiring system in there, I dunno if thats what caused it. May even just have had something to do with water/snow on the hood/engine of the car or something, im not sure. It would happen for like 30-45 seconds then go away.
The only other weird thing that happened was, when I was trying to speed up on a highway ramp, 4th, 5th, and 6th gear in the lower RPMs (like 2000-3000rpm) did not have any power. It was weird, it felt like the engine was revving but not delivering any power until I would kind of feel a pull of the car when it decided it felt like going. It was really strange. But maybe that is just how this car is.
Any input on either of those things?
(on a side note, oh man this car rocks LOL. I love it so much, and even the gas mileage on my trip was great)
One other thing I'd like to ask too was, I was researching which oil I should be using and heard that the manual says 5w-20. I ordered premix from idemitsu (because I heard thats good to use too), and noticed that they do not offer a 5w-20 for sale. I ordered some 10w-30 from there because it was the thinnest they had. Is this going to be too thick for my rx8? I dont want to damage the car, I want to give it the best of everything that I can.
Thanks guys!
Yesterday I took it on a 2.5 hour drive through a snow storm, and I started hearing on the way home, a weird sound (like that of boiling water) coming from inside the airbag compartment on the passengers side. They just replaced a wiring system in there, I dunno if thats what caused it. May even just have had something to do with water/snow on the hood/engine of the car or something, im not sure. It would happen for like 30-45 seconds then go away.
The only other weird thing that happened was, when I was trying to speed up on a highway ramp, 4th, 5th, and 6th gear in the lower RPMs (like 2000-3000rpm) did not have any power. It was weird, it felt like the engine was revving but not delivering any power until I would kind of feel a pull of the car when it decided it felt like going. It was really strange. But maybe that is just how this car is.
Any input on either of those things?
(on a side note, oh man this car rocks LOL. I love it so much, and even the gas mileage on my trip was great)
One other thing I'd like to ask too was, I was researching which oil I should be using and heard that the manual says 5w-20. I ordered premix from idemitsu (because I heard thats good to use too), and noticed that they do not offer a 5w-20 for sale. I ordered some 10w-30 from there because it was the thinnest they had. Is this going to be too thick for my rx8? I dont want to damage the car, I want to give it the best of everything that I can.
Thanks guys!
Sounds like your finally doing better with the car.
Couple things...
1.) The boiling water. This is referred to as "marbles in the dash" and is quite common on the 8. It happens at high rpms and is caused by the exhaust but under the hood and not at the tail pipe.
2.) This car has no power under 4-5,000 rpms. Going down an on ramp in 6th at 2,000 rpms is not a great idea. This car was built to be redlined. Use all your tach.
3.) Ahh the great oil debate. You mentioned snow so I assume it's cold which means a thinner oil would probably help on start up. 5w-20 is as thin as you ever want to go but you should probably use it in the winter time and maybe a higher viscosity in the summer.
4.) Have fun and take pictures to post!!!!!
03-10-2012, 08:57 AM
#27
Thanks! I appreciate it! I will deffinitely post some pictures soon! Thanks for the info about the exhaust by the way. That doesnt mean its going bad though right? Its just something it does? The engine coolant warning light also came on, but mazda told me that that comes on at random sometimes too, so im not so concerned about that.
So let me pick your brain one last time about the oil issue again. Since it will be summer soon, and since this car does burn oil, (there is 5w-20 in there now), can I just check it, and slowly add my new idemitsu 10w-30 to the current oil, filling it up to the line, until I need to do an oil change, in which itll prolly be warm spring, and Ill fill her up with the 10w-30? This is sure going to be a new experience for me. I havent had too much experience under the hood other than what my dad taught me with the older cars (he gave up once the engines started getting covers/shielding), so Im excited to start getting some skills carefully under the hood of my 8! =)
So let me pick your brain one last time about the oil issue again. Since it will be summer soon, and since this car does burn oil, (there is 5w-20 in there now), can I just check it, and slowly add my new idemitsu 10w-30 to the current oil, filling it up to the line, until I need to do an oil change, in which itll prolly be warm spring, and Ill fill her up with the 10w-30? This is sure going to be a new experience for me. I havent had too much experience under the hood other than what my dad taught me with the older cars (he gave up once the engines started getting covers/shielding), so Im excited to start getting some skills carefully under the hood of my 8! =)
03-10-2012, 10:16 AM
#28
i haz rotary? say what?
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I saw a Popular Mechanics article one time where they gave a detailed checklist of about 100 different things to look for when buying a new car from dents to flood damage and everything in between, then gave them all a severity level. Depending on the number you got, it then basically said either 1.) It's a used car and these things are to be expected, 2.) You may run into problems with this car in the future, or 3.) RUN AWAY WHILE YOU STILL CAN!
It was a very good article, I wish I could find it....
EDIT: HA! I found it!
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cm/p...-checklist.pdf
It was a very good article, I wish I could find it....
EDIT: HA! I found it!
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cm/p...-checklist.pdf
03-10-2012, 04:22 PM
#29
You can start adding your 10w-30 now it won't cause any issues.
The engine coolant light...check your fluid level and maybe do a flush to make sure someone wasn't just topping up with water before you.
The engine coolant light...check your fluid level and maybe do a flush to make sure someone wasn't just topping up with water before you.
03-10-2012, 04:33 PM
#30
Thanks! I appreciate it! I will deffinitely post some pictures soon! Thanks for the info about the exhaust by the way. That doesnt mean its going bad though right? Its just something it does? The engine coolant warning light also came on, but mazda told me that that comes on at random sometimes too, so im not so concerned about that.
So let me pick your brain one last time about the oil issue again. Since it will be summer soon, and since this car does burn oil, (there is 5w-20 in there now), can I just check it, and slowly add my new idemitsu 10w-30 to the current oil, filling it up to the line, until I need to do an oil change, in which itll prolly be warm spring, and Ill fill her up with the 10w-30? This is sure going to be a new experience for me. I havent had too much experience under the hood other than what my dad taught me with the older cars (he gave up once the engines started getting covers/shielding), so Im excited to start getting some skills carefully under the hood of my 8! =)
So let me pick your brain one last time about the oil issue again. Since it will be summer soon, and since this car does burn oil, (there is 5w-20 in there now), can I just check it, and slowly add my new idemitsu 10w-30 to the current oil, filling it up to the line, until I need to do an oil change, in which itll prolly be warm spring, and Ill fill her up with the 10w-30? This is sure going to be a new experience for me. I havent had too much experience under the hood other than what my dad taught me with the older cars (he gave up once the engines started getting covers/shielding), so Im excited to start getting some skills carefully under the hood of my 8! =)
03-10-2012, 05:29 PM
#31
4 DOORS FOR MORE WHORES
They have to keep the car at the Mazda dealership, get the warranty to approve it, order the engine, have it shipped (takes about 1 week to deliver), removal & install and then finally testing before they are finished. Factor in not working on the car on Sunday it would take about a week and a half to two full business weeks.
03-11-2012, 08:24 AM
#32
No, you are right. They DO NOT replace the engine on their own in the course of a couple days.
They have to keep the car at the Mazda dealership, get the warranty to approve it, order the engine, have it shipped (takes about 1 week to deliver), removal & install and then finally testing before they are finished. Factor in not working on the car on Sunday it would take about a week and a half to two full business weeks.
They have to keep the car at the Mazda dealership, get the warranty to approve it, order the engine, have it shipped (takes about 1 week to deliver), removal & install and then finally testing before they are finished. Factor in not working on the car on Sunday it would take about a week and a half to two full business weeks.
03-11-2012, 08:50 AM
#33
1.) The boiling water. This is referred to as "marbles in the dash" and is quite common on the 8. It happens at high rpms and is caused by the exhaust but under the hood and not at the tail pipe.
2.) This car has no power under 4-5,000 rpms. Going down an on ramp in 6th at 2,000 rpms is not a great idea. This car was built to be redlined. Use all your tach.
Marbles in a Can sound
And I thought it was caused by a heater hose in the engine bay on the passenger side.
Found this thread and apparently we are using Marbles in a Can sound for lots of things now <huh who knew>
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/marbles-can-sand-blender-issue-fixed-172684/
+1 on the 2000 rpms in 5th gear ... hehehe zero torque dewd ... rev the **** out of that engine.
It was a very good article, I wish I could find it....
EDIT: HA! I found it!
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cm/p...-checklist.pdf
Im sorry, like I said I think I misspoke. They replaced something they called the efcflash or something like that. Maybe that is the starter? It was on the writeup and they did do it the same day. They technically did a "used car inspection" on it for me. Maybe that is the starter?
Updated the ECU with the latest firmware.
03-11-2012, 09:00 AM
#34
Ah ok thats what is was! the ECU flash! Thanks wcs.
Thanks for all the advice too guys. I promise I'll have pics soon. I just ordered a case of oil, a K&N oil filter, and some premix so I can be prepared for the future.
I also was considering buying new spark plugs. The dealer said they just replaced them, but this car is still taking 3-4 seconds to start up. Many people told me thats how rotary engines are, but when I went to a different dealer to test drive a 2004 rx8, it started up immediately. So I'm wondering now if it does have a starting issue... granted, whatevers gonna go wrong, go wrong now!!! That way if the transmission, engines, or anything else falls out within the next 2 months, at least Ill be better off cause its under warranty lol.
But seriously, thanks for all the advice guys. I am lovin this car a ton. I just hope that with all the problems that it initially had when I got it, if I give it all the TLC I have to offer, it'll last me.
Thanks for all the advice too guys. I promise I'll have pics soon. I just ordered a case of oil, a K&N oil filter, and some premix so I can be prepared for the future.
I also was considering buying new spark plugs. The dealer said they just replaced them, but this car is still taking 3-4 seconds to start up. Many people told me thats how rotary engines are, but when I went to a different dealer to test drive a 2004 rx8, it started up immediately. So I'm wondering now if it does have a starting issue... granted, whatevers gonna go wrong, go wrong now!!! That way if the transmission, engines, or anything else falls out within the next 2 months, at least Ill be better off cause its under warranty lol.
But seriously, thanks for all the advice guys. I am lovin this car a ton. I just hope that with all the problems that it initially had when I got it, if I give it all the TLC I have to offer, it'll last me.
03-11-2012, 09:49 AM
#35
Registered User
Be patient. First rx-8 that caught my eye was at a chop shop used car dealer. Damn near bought it. Searched for year for the perfect one finally found a shinka with 30000 a couple of months ago and snapped it up . So glad I waited coincidently an elder couple bought that other car and have had multiple issues. Paitience is a virtue. Especially when it comes to 8's
03-13-2012, 02:46 PM
#37
Well the car still seems to be running well. I got a couple more questions for you though.
First one is, (and please excuse my ignorance), my oil dipstick does not have a Full or empty line on it... It has 5 circle hashes on a dipstick with a yellow end. Im assuming that after its been running and you let it sit for 5 minutes, the prime spot for it to be is around that top hash? If so, I'll add some because after driving it and checking it, it was more towards the bottom hash. (I checked the owners manual but it was not very descriptive. It said the "Full" and "empty" lines, but did not specify. And since I am just beginning to learn these things, I want to be 100% sure of what Im doing.
My 2nd question is: I ordered a filter and a case of oil for when I change it in a month or two. I read the post labeled "Changing the rx8 oil for dummies". Well I am going to need the one for total idiots because even from that I still had a question. It noted that you need a special tool to be able to tighten and loosen the oil filter. I can see when I take the engine cover off, that it seems to be in a pretty hidden spot where I could never get my hand from the top of the car. Is this why you need the tool? I saw a few other people post saying that there were no extra tools neeeded, and I just wanted to make sure so I can get it ahead of time. (I think the tool mentioned was 1 specific to this car for loosening/tightening the filter?).
First one is, (and please excuse my ignorance), my oil dipstick does not have a Full or empty line on it... It has 5 circle hashes on a dipstick with a yellow end. Im assuming that after its been running and you let it sit for 5 minutes, the prime spot for it to be is around that top hash? If so, I'll add some because after driving it and checking it, it was more towards the bottom hash. (I checked the owners manual but it was not very descriptive. It said the "Full" and "empty" lines, but did not specify. And since I am just beginning to learn these things, I want to be 100% sure of what Im doing.
My 2nd question is: I ordered a filter and a case of oil for when I change it in a month or two. I read the post labeled "Changing the rx8 oil for dummies". Well I am going to need the one for total idiots because even from that I still had a question. It noted that you need a special tool to be able to tighten and loosen the oil filter. I can see when I take the engine cover off, that it seems to be in a pretty hidden spot where I could never get my hand from the top of the car. Is this why you need the tool? I saw a few other people post saying that there were no extra tools neeeded, and I just wanted to make sure so I can get it ahead of time. (I think the tool mentioned was 1 specific to this car for loosening/tightening the filter?).
04-09-2012, 01:02 PM
#38
Well I took it to the dealer today to get a compression test. Mazda said one of the rotors failed (i didnt get the specifics yet but 1 rotor reading was 96, and I think the minimum is 98? or something like that. They are going to try one last thing called "zoom power" which could possibly help. If it doesnt, they'll submit for a warranty replacement.
One thing however (which maybe it was stupid on my part), was when they said make sure you use only non-synthetic oil, I told them that I use Idemitsu Rotary Oil which is 100% synthetic. They pretty much yelled at me and told me it could ruin the engine. I find that odd considering thats the oil that mazdatrix goes by/uses.... I hope that wont like disqualify me from a new motor rebuild or something....
One thing however (which maybe it was stupid on my part), was when they said make sure you use only non-synthetic oil, I told them that I use Idemitsu Rotary Oil which is 100% synthetic. They pretty much yelled at me and told me it could ruin the engine. I find that odd considering thats the oil that mazdatrix goes by/uses.... I hope that wont like disqualify me from a new motor rebuild or something....
04-09-2012, 01:36 PM
#39
5w 20 is actually waaay too thin for our engines ... go for 10w30 ... I run 10w40 ... a good friend of mine runs 20w50 and swears by it (but he also races)
below 3k there is barely any power to be had, this engine loves to rev and it is good for it too ... redline it often.
However, try to shift right at 8.5 k (where the beep starts) for 2 reasons ... power dropoff and poor engine balancing from the factory
You do want to run the engine at least once to 8k almost every time you drive to blow out the carbon in the engine. Think of the Rotary as pretty much a race engine. You need to run it fast and hard every once in a while to ensure proper operation.
However, wait till fully warmed up to do drive it hard ... even if the water temp may be center, your oil temp still needs about a minute to get to the same place. Most members will let it warm up before driving. I start driving right away but keep it under 3k until temp reaches halfway between middle and low and then under 4k until it is center
Premix 4 - 6 oz per tank increase to 8 - 10 oz if driving hard ... premix first, fuel second. Also, don't overdo it because premix lowers octane, and you don't want to blow blue smoke.
Welcome to the addiction, you will find that this forum, apart from our drama, has a lot of really useful information
PS: Get a catchcan to save yourself from SSV issues.
below 3k there is barely any power to be had, this engine loves to rev and it is good for it too ... redline it often.
However, try to shift right at 8.5 k (where the beep starts) for 2 reasons ... power dropoff and poor engine balancing from the factory
You do want to run the engine at least once to 8k almost every time you drive to blow out the carbon in the engine. Think of the Rotary as pretty much a race engine. You need to run it fast and hard every once in a while to ensure proper operation.
However, wait till fully warmed up to do drive it hard ... even if the water temp may be center, your oil temp still needs about a minute to get to the same place. Most members will let it warm up before driving. I start driving right away but keep it under 3k until temp reaches halfway between middle and low and then under 4k until it is center
Premix 4 - 6 oz per tank increase to 8 - 10 oz if driving hard ... premix first, fuel second. Also, don't overdo it because premix lowers octane, and you don't want to blow blue smoke.
Welcome to the addiction, you will find that this forum, apart from our drama, has a lot of really useful information
PS: Get a catchcan to save yourself from SSV issues.
Last edited by stinksause; 04-09-2012 at 01:45 PM.
04-09-2012, 02:13 PM
#40
Dealers are famous for not knowing what they are talking about ... Synthetic is allegedly dangerous because of the Oil Metering System. Personally, I suspect that's BS, but I run mineral oil because I like to change it often (every 2.5k). I feel that our engines quickly add contaminants to oil, and unless you are really adventurous, you can only change half of the oil out at one time.
In their defense, it does say not to use it in the manual.
Dealers, are not the most educated in terms of the Rotary.
Premixing can increase compression as much as 5 -12 psi during a compression test. Use this knowledge at your discretion.
In their defense, it does say not to use it in the manual.
Dealers, are not the most educated in terms of the Rotary.
Premixing can increase compression as much as 5 -12 psi during a compression test. Use this knowledge at your discretion.
04-09-2012, 05:02 PM
#41
Dealers are famous for not knowing what they are talking about ... Synthetic is allegedly dangerous because of the Oil Metering System. Personally, I suspect that's BS, but I run mineral oil because I like to change it often (every 2.5k). I feel that our engines quickly add contaminants to oil, and unless you are really adventurous, you can only change half of the oil out at one time.
In their defense, it does say not to use it in the manual.
Dealers, are not the most educated in terms of the Rotary.
Premixing can increase compression as much as 5 -12 psi during a compression test. Use this knowledge at your discretion.
In their defense, it does say not to use it in the manual.
Dealers, are not the most educated in terms of the Rotary.
Premixing can increase compression as much as 5 -12 psi during a compression test. Use this knowledge at your discretion.
5-12 psi?
Thats a considerable amount. and right now that could be the difference between the test passing or failing... I really wish I hadnt of added premix this fillup. otherwise i might have a better chance of getting a rebuild.
04-10-2012, 02:04 PM
#42
Well mazda called me and told me that after they did the zoompower procedure and replaced the plugs (even though i just replaced them like a week ago), it "passed the compression test with flying colors". I guess ill drive it home and see if thats true. Im a bit nervous because the whole reason I brought it to them was because of the poor warm start issue. When I asked them if it had been fixed, they told me "uh.... well... its better than it was..." Not the most reassuring words ever, but we'll see. I'll post results.
04-10-2012, 04:57 PM
#43
Bottom feeder
Sorry to hear your having so much trouble with your new used RX-8. The starters in the early RX-8 models are rubbish. Furthermore, because your RX-8 has so many miles, the compression is likely much lower than it should be.
I'm wondering, though, how certain oils improve compression in rotary engines.. Now, I really don't mean to turn this in to an oil thread (every thread is at risk any time the word oil is typed!), but it seems Stinkysause is suggesting switching your oil to a significantly heavier grade may improve compression.. Has any have first hand experience doing this? 20w50 seems like a huge jump and obviously not recommended in the manual. But hey if you're engine runs better why not.
I'm wondering, though, how certain oils improve compression in rotary engines.. Now, I really don't mean to turn this in to an oil thread (every thread is at risk any time the word oil is typed!), but it seems Stinkysause is suggesting switching your oil to a significantly heavier grade may improve compression.. Has any have first hand experience doing this? 20w50 seems like a huge jump and obviously not recommended in the manual. But hey if you're engine runs better why not.
04-10-2012, 08:15 PM
#44
Sorry to hear your having so much trouble with your new used RX-8. The starters in the early RX-8 models are rubbish. Furthermore, because your RX-8 has so many miles, the compression is likely much lower than it should be.
I'm wondering, though, how certain oils improve compression in rotary engines.. Now, I really don't mean to turn this in to an oil thread (every thread is at risk any time the word oil is typed!), but it seems Stinkysause is suggesting switching your oil to a significantly heavier grade may improve compression.. Has any have first hand experience doing this? 20w50 seems like a huge jump and obviously not recommended in the manual. But hey if you're engine runs better why not.
I'm wondering, though, how certain oils improve compression in rotary engines.. Now, I really don't mean to turn this in to an oil thread (every thread is at risk any time the word oil is typed!), but it seems Stinkysause is suggesting switching your oil to a significantly heavier grade may improve compression.. Has any have first hand experience doing this? 20w50 seems like a huge jump and obviously not recommended in the manual. But hey if you're engine runs better why not.
Well from what I've heard, its a trade off.
Thicker oil will end up benefitting your exhaust, however it will tax your exhaust system more. Then you have the opposite problem if you switch to thinner. The way I think of it (and it may be wrong), I picture the interior of the engine, and picture thicker liquids spread over the parts. Because its thicker, it technically takes up more space, and is a heavier substance. Taking up more space/being thicker is going to in a sense reduce free space around seals, and increase compression. That may be 100% wrong, but thats kinda how I picture it based on what others have said.
04-10-2012, 09:07 PM
#45
Sounds like quite an adventure. I stay away from dealers. Got mine in a private sell, and I had told the previous owner I had dibs basically. But I had also been eyeing that 8 since last July and I knew the car well before I bought it. It has the issues all 8s have and nothing more. Wouldn't trade it for the world. Welcome to the club 
04-11-2012, 07:20 AM
#46
I highly doubt there would be enough residual oil on the housing to impact compression that much. Remember you crank the engine for 5-7 seconds.
The fuel is cut, so you'll not be getting a continued source of premixed fuel to the motor.
IIRC you remember from MM's training, you can take the Throttle-Based Oil Metering map and set the OMP value to 50 in the 700 rpm column. Then at start up if you want to get the internals all sloppy hold down the gas pedal while you turn the engine over. Effectively cutting the fuel but adding oil from the OMP.
Last edited by wcs; 04-11-2012 at 07:26 AM.
04-11-2012, 10:21 AM
#48
Well mazda called me and told me that after they did the zoompower procedure and replaced the plugs (even though i just replaced them like a week ago), it "passed the compression test with flying colors". I guess ill drive it home and see if thats true. Im a bit nervous because the whole reason I brought it to them was because of the poor warm start issue. When I asked them if it had been fixed, they told me "uh.... well... its better than it was..." Not the most reassuring words ever, but we'll see. I'll post results.
Poor warm start is usually due to low compression. It is not unheard of dealerships giving back failing engines.
Since Posting, I actually looked up the compression test procedure and zoom zoom cleaner and oil is actually part of the procedure!
AS far as oil weight goes, I would highly recommend 10w30. It seems that it has been proven that 5w20 causes excessive bearing wear...
Last edited by stinksause; 04-11-2012 at 10:39 AM.
04-11-2012, 12:09 PM
#50
Compression Numbers:
I will post the decimals later but rounded off this is what I remember from my sheet.
Rotor 1 (1st test) - 96psi
Rotor 2 (1st test) - 105 psi
Rotor 1 (after zoom pow) - 98 psi
Rotor 2 (after zoom pow) - 108 psi
They said that it showed great improvement so they arent going to replace the motor. I heard though that around ~120 psi is the recommended? Doesnt that mean mine is quite low? I will deffinitely say as far as I've seen so far the warm starts are a bit improved, but not perfect yet. Another weird thing that happened today was I was by my old community college with my foot on the brake in neutral sitting in a slanted position on a hill (facing downward down the hill, and its quite steep). My car kept sounding like it was going to die after a few seconds. It would go down to like 500RPMS and rev back up to 1000, then go back down, than rev back up. I had a 1/2 tank of gas, so I didnt think that could be the problem. I guess its not a big deal cause its not like i drive down really steep hills every day, but was strange.
Question #2: If my compression is still pretty low, should I just wait another month or two and have the compression checked again and see if it fails?
I will post the decimals later but rounded off this is what I remember from my sheet.
Rotor 1 (1st test) - 96psi
Rotor 2 (1st test) - 105 psi
Rotor 1 (after zoom pow) - 98 psi
Rotor 2 (after zoom pow) - 108 psi
They said that it showed great improvement so they arent going to replace the motor. I heard though that around ~120 psi is the recommended? Doesnt that mean mine is quite low? I will deffinitely say as far as I've seen so far the warm starts are a bit improved, but not perfect yet. Another weird thing that happened today was I was by my old community college with my foot on the brake in neutral sitting in a slanted position on a hill (facing downward down the hill, and its quite steep). My car kept sounding like it was going to die after a few seconds. It would go down to like 500RPMS and rev back up to 1000, then go back down, than rev back up. I had a 1/2 tank of gas, so I didnt think that could be the problem. I guess its not a big deal cause its not like i drive down really steep hills every day, but was strange.
Question #2: If my compression is still pretty low, should I just wait another month or two and have the compression checked again and see if it fails?