$500 spent on Auxillary Port Valve Replacement
$500 spent on Auxillary Port Valve Replacement
I have a 2004 MT RX8 with 50,000 miles and just had the APV replaced for $500!!!!
Just had my engine replaced 4,000 miles ago.
Somebody want my car??!
What's next?
Just had my engine replaced 4,000 miles ago.
Somebody want my car??!
What's next?
back when i had about 45,000 miles i had a check engine light pop up. We checked it and it said the APV was stuck open. It didnt keep the car from running though. As a matter of fact it ran better than ever as soon as that engine light popped on.
I've heard of this issue from other owners. There was a lot of talk about it a couple of years ago. This is the first I have heard of it in a while. The valves carbon lock in these systems and can not be repaired but must be replaced. I remember that this is more likely to happen to those who do not red line their car often. The stuck valve usually does not open till high RPMs.
I've heard of this issue from other owners. There was a lot of talk about it a couple of years ago. This is the first I have heard of it in a while. The valves carbon lock in these systems and can not be repaired but must be replaced. I remember that this is more likely to happen to those who do not red line their car often. The stuck valve usually does not open till high RPMs.

when people dont drive their car in the upper RPM range often ---- long enough it gets stuck.
I dont understand some people, they have a car with 8-9K red line but choose to drive it like some Civic ---- keep the rpm as low as they can and thinking its a "good thing to do", retards.
but either way, the OP got ripped. big time.
I think I remember reading somewhere that, upon start up, the computer will open and shut the two valves that don't open until upper RPM ranges to try and keep them from sticking just in case people don't abide by the redline-a-day philosophy. I could be wrong, of course, but for some reason I think I remember reading it somewhere when I did research on my SSV being stuck open.
Oh yeah, OP got bent over a tree.....
Oh yeah, OP got bent over a tree.....
I just joined the forum in large part due to this exact problem. Check engine light yielded APV code per the local Mazda dealer. Code was cleared and I drove it today with no "check engine" light reappearing yet. I am concerned that if I do rev it up too high it will return. I don't have the $$$ to replace it yet. I'm thinking about seeing how this goes until I can afford the repair before redlining again. Any technical and/or personal experiences would be appreciated. Thanks!
if its stuck by carbon, you can try to free it by "keep pushing the car to its limits"
sometimes it will turn the thing and unstuck the valve.
other than that ...
This will happen if you baby your car a lot.
sometimes it will turn the thing and unstuck the valve.
other than that ...
This will happen if you baby your car a lot.
The APV is driven by a stepper motor.
You can always remove the motor (2 bolts) and spin the gear to feel if its truly stuck or not.
There are positioning sensors inside the motor housing, so don't rule those out when troubleshooting.
You can always remove the motor (2 bolts) and spin the gear to feel if its truly stuck or not.
There are positioning sensors inside the motor housing, so don't rule those out when troubleshooting.
The valves open at 6250 RPM and the valves also cycles every time the ignition is turned off to clear carbon.
I did that and it un-freeze it, never came back.
I know it runs a stepper motor, but the metal piece inside can get stuck.
well, what works for me might not work for other people I guess ?
^What I was getting at is by removing the motor and spinning the gear, you can narrow down where the problem really is.
If you can spin it fairly easily, it might be an issue with the motor itself and the valves may not be truly stuck.
If the gear is difficult to spin, then you have a stuck valve or possibly build-up in the rack and pinion.
Not saying that your method shouldn't work, just throwing in a couple more variables/possibilities
If you can spin it fairly easily, it might be an issue with the motor itself and the valves may not be truly stuck.
If the gear is difficult to spin, then you have a stuck valve or possibly build-up in the rack and pinion.
Not saying that your method shouldn't work, just throwing in a couple more variables/possibilities
Last edited by Jon316G; Sep 30, 2009 at 05:16 PM. Reason: grammar
^What I was getting at is by removing the motor and spinning the gear, you can narrow down where the problem really is.
If you can spin it fairly easily, it might be an issue with the motor itself and the valves may not be truly stuck.
Its the gear is difficult to spin, then you have a stuck valve or possibly build-up in the rack and pinion.
Not saying that your method shouldn't work, just throwing in a couple more variables/possibilities
If you can spin it fairly easily, it might be an issue with the motor itself and the valves may not be truly stuck.
Its the gear is difficult to spin, then you have a stuck valve or possibly build-up in the rack and pinion.
Not saying that your method shouldn't work, just throwing in a couple more variables/possibilities

I just joined the forum in large part due to this exact problem. Check engine light yielded APV code per the local Mazda dealer. Code was cleared and I drove it today with no "check engine" light reappearing yet. I am concerned that if I do rev it up too high it will return. I don't have the $$$ to replace it yet. I'm thinking about seeing how this goes until I can afford the repair before redlining again. Any technical and/or personal experiences would be appreciated. Thanks!
Read the posts.. you'll notice they all say that if you treat the car nicely, you're more likely to get that problem. However, if you rev it and drive it like a real man, then you won't have the problem. Up to you.


