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I was looking at some of the dyno’s and the 8474 just did not look like it had much to offer, well I guess that was the top end anyways. It shines in the mid range? As long as it’s no larger than the 8374 then I should really consider it.
I was looking at some of the dyno’s and the 8474 just did not look like it had much to offer, well I guess that was the top end anyways. It shines in the mid range? As long as it’s no larger than the 8374 then I should really consider it.
Maybe Team can chime in, as I don't remember exactly nor want to go down the rabbit hole to find out, but it has same max power output as a 9180 but much better low to mid range flow? I'd figure for another $150 its a no brainer. Unless you're getting an 8374 somewhere else for cheap.
Okay, It looks like Turbosource/turblown is getting the 8374 back in stock, so I will be purchasing soon. I have a couple questions I wanted to run by you guys before I do.
Is the main difference between the iron and aluminum CHRA weight savings? Is there a big need to get aluminum?
What EFR wastegate canister is best? I was thinking medium boost which is about 19 psi. My goals are a solid 400-450 hp.
Also, I'm going to get a speed sensor and the Inconel turbine housing shield.
I believe the medium actuator is 12psi (that's what I have) then you can use a boost controller to get up to 20 or so PSI if that's where you want to go. Personal opinon, I'd just get the iron CHRA and save the extra cash, this is a street car after all correct?
I believe the medium actuator is 12psi (that's what I have) then you can use a boost controller to get up to 20 or so PSI if that's where you want to go. Personal opinon, I'd just get the iron CHRA and save the extra cash, this is a street car after all correct?
Building for street and maybe 3-4 high speed touring days at our local road course, Hallett.
Maybe Team can chime in, as I don't remember exactly nor want to go down the rabbit hole to find out, but it has same max power output as a 9180 but much better low to mid range flow? I'd figure for another $150 its a no brainer. Unless you're getting an 8374 somewhere else for cheap.
I did a little research. The issue with the 8474 is that it gives up between 500-750 rpm of response. It’s really meant for someone who wants to push to 500hp.
I don’t know if I will ever want to target 500 hp, but I don’t mind having a capable turbo. I think I will be happy with 400 hp honestly.
I want a very responsive system so losing as much as 750 rpm until boost worries me.
no, you only want the 8474 for pushing into 600+ whp. The thing is you’re not going to get anywhere near there on stock ports. It will be hard pressed to even hit 450 whp on stock ports imo. You can get to 550+ whp with porting and the 8374.
otherwise you’re buying the turbo from Turbosource/Turblown. So the answer is obvious; ask and follow their advice. Which is likely going to be the 8374 with medium IWG Turbosmart canister, but you should still ask Elliott.
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you can get a feel for how porting and fuel type influence the end result; porting allows more flow at lower boost pressure, better fuel allows higher boost and it also coming on sooner, etc. So my previous comment about 450 whp on stock ports is somewhat conditional to that.
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Got the turbo in and started mocking up where the turbo should be placed.
TeamRx8 should get all the credit for giving me this orientation idea, otherwise there is not much room for an equal length runners.
Likely this is very close to the final position however minor adjustments can be made to the y axis and to the compressor orientation.
3.5 inch down-pipe should fit without issue.
I plan to cut the bottom of the coolant thermostat holder and weld an AN fitting to that location.
OMP may fit without sohn adapter.
I’ve been looking at getting this for a heat exchanger for water to air cooling system, but it’s been out of stock for a long time.
✔️sxe362 turbo .88
✔️450whp 93pump gas.
✔️old dyno 4,000 pounds
✔️I wanted more hp but my injectors reached their maximum.
✔️With efr8374 turbo and 0.92 you do 450whp easy. maximum 500 or 500 to 520 with e85 fuel.
unlike your ported Cosmo RE, his is a stock port REW.
It’s established that it takes low-mid 20 psi boost to get an EFR 8374 to 450 whp on a stock port REW. Shouldn’t be a problem on E85, but the highest stock REW port result I ever saw on same was ~490 whp at 29 psi boost. So it needs porting to reach the potential.
Don’t want to say much before we have an actual result, but we’re still working on the low-mount turbo manifold, though not using the shorty design. It’s taking a little longer to do since the off-the-shelf piping with appropriate flow sizing isn’t going to work. This is requiring us to jump through some multiple-sourcing hoops to pull it off. Assuming we do.
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When I bought my 8474 through full race, they advised me that the Iron CHRA was the better choice for rotary application due to the high EGT's. It took almost 9 months to actually get the turbo in btw.
Proof I have not totally slacked over the holidays.
Mounted the heat exchanger. Had to make custom brackets. Everything turned out really good I think. I should be able to duct the incoming air and hopefully the most forward hood vents will make it low pressure behind the heat exchanger.
I did open up the front firewall as much as I could.
What do you think about this placement? Any cons? Do I need to do anything to make negative pressure behind the heat exchanger? Open to constructive criticism and discussion.
What do you think about this placement? Any cons? Do I need to do anything to make negative pressure behind the heat exchanger? Open to constructive criticism and discussion.
Not sure if anyone could or would say anything definitely in placement. Ideally you just want flow across the heat exchanger to be as unrestricted and smooth as possible. From the pictures its hard but I don't think it's the most ideal location without ducting. Upside is heat soaking won't impact the water temps directly.
I plan on mounting my intercooler directly to the AC and Radiator. I am hoping that with a hood opening and some ducting I should get good flow through all 3.
After messing around with turbo orientation a few times, I did finalize the turbo position and with the recommendations of TeamRx8 set out to build a jig to guide the process of developing my own turbo manifold. I think it’s obvious at this stage how much of a newb I am at all this stuff, so I must say none of this would have been possibly without Mark’s guidance and all of you for that matter. I had made it a personal challenge to use 2 inch pipe and get a true low mount position. I wanted to retain the OMP as well.
Built the jig fairly easily with the use of a harbor freight welder but welding the flanges together under the can on jack stands not so much. Finally had to buy some welding glasses and ditch the helmet. Then moved on to tach welding the manifold in place.
I had to disassemble the tached up manifold a couple times as I learned the importance of equal length runners and trying to alleviate harsh bend angles. Lots of time went into cutting, sanding and getting a perfect fit.
Final version. Much better and length is at most 8mm off. Then sent the manifold to my local welder.
Mark had me weld up another jig for 1.5 inch pipe in a similar orientation. I shipped it to him through the post office.
Mark had this welded with his local guy and it turned out nice but not equal length and somehow there was an extreme angle introduced into the jig, I’m thinking it may have happened durning shipping but can’t be sure. Could have been my error just as easily since it was missing a key support. The front to rear angle is 25ish degrees which is too much for comfort.
The welder did not seem to listen to instructions to well? Says he forgot???
Here are the two manifolds side by side
The 1.5 inch manifold with turbo mounted. Extreme angle is easily to note.
2inch mounted with turbo
I opted to use the 2 inch version as it came out really nice. So I was able to create a 2inch turbo manifold in the low mount position with the 8374 that is equal length. I’m in the process of making small adjustments like shaving the compressor clamp and the lower intake. I can’t use the omp after all which I’m sure everyone is happy about. I also had to cut the passenger side stock engine mount location. I have checked all the bolt ons including the electronic actuator and it all fits. The 12an oil drain is tight.
All I can say is amazing job Brad! I'd be lying if I said this hasn't piqued my interest. Looks like a lot of hard work went into fitting this and with a jig made can I assume you plan to potentially make more?
I would be curious to see what needed to be trimmed on the engine mount? Do you have any photos from under the car looking back up at the turbo/manifold, and where the downpipe/turbine flange sits?
I can see the turbo is positioned further rearward with the 2” manifold, and also with more intake manifold clearance. That may have influenced the angle issue on the 1.5” some. I blame myself for not having mentioned the oil drain angle limitation to you until afterward. Perhaps somewhere between those two positions is the sweet spot.
I suppose it could have shifted in shipping, but it fit the jig after welding. Which it has a piece of flat bar welded between the flanges for holding their position just like the first pic above and neither it or the welds appear to be tweaked. So again my fault for not having advised you on that consideration.
Then the overall issue of trusting a shop that not only didn’t do what I asked him to do, but didn’t do what he said he’d do. It’s the biggest headache and lifelong problem of having somebody else do something rather than yourself - even as you now experienced! Which Jesse can entirely relate to as well. That shop is too far away for me to be looking and watching over their shoulder, so will need to find someone else closer to home.
It should be noted that this has the Nicon engine mount crossmember and engine position is different than the Banzai crossmember, not sure how the RX8Performance mount compares. So it’s maybe not a one manifold fit’s all solution, but can be custom fitted.
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All I can say is amazing job Brad! I'd be lying if I said this hasn't piqued my interest. Looks like a lot of hard work went into fitting this and with a jig made can I assume you plan to potentially make more?
I would be curious to see what needed to be trimmed on the engine mount? Do you have any photos from under the car looking back up at the turbo/manifold, and where the downpipe/turbine flange sits?
Thanks. Yes I have some pictures. I will post below. I cut all the vertical metal pieces lining up the mount which includes a stud as well if I remember correctly. I did some milling of the subframe which i wish I did not do as it is not as needed as I thought.
That is the one advantage of the RX8P engine crossmember; it eliminates the OE engine mounts and opens that space up fully. My variation of the Banzai mount will do something similar.
At first I thought the engine sitting back further in the chassis with the Nicon mount was contributing to that, but then recognized the engine mount to engine position is the same for all. Even looking at this Banzai mount installation picture it seems like there is more clearance there
Banzai engine crossmember
but I suppose a photo never paints the full picture of what exists.
Banzai Racing also offers these flat steel plate motor mount arms, but I’m assuming they’ll work with the Nicon mount parts. They do fit the Banzai crossmember parts
It is specifically for use with Banzai Racing Poly Motor Mounts and will not work with OEM rubber mounts. It can be used with our Oil Pan.
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Our Bracket has been designed for use on either side but does not have the holes to mount the heat shield.
I've looked at the banzai motor mounts in the past. They look nice. I think they will raise the engine slightly, they look a little thicker than stock.
05-03-2023, 10:19 PM
