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So its been a LONG time coming to REW swap my car (checked my first receipt for porting templates was from 2015! Oof.) Finally in good standings in life to full dismantle my car for this project.
With all this time I have revised my build in excel many times and I am sure starting this thread will help solidify remaining questions I do have about the build. As of now I have a good chunk of the parts listed, but any feedback will be greatly appreciated. I think I am finally at the stage of the only way I will know the answer to this is just doing it.
I'll be updating this first post to keep changes logged, and reasoning. Hopefully this can turn into a full itemized build list of the major components.
11/30/2023 update: I am making my excel log accessible for anyone needing some additional info, seeing costs (note Summit Racing items are with a discount, so do your research for actual pricing). If for some reason you are able to edit it please do not modify anything and notify me either here or via email. Thanks! Link
Engine:
- REW front cover
- Pineapple racing porting templates (I may forgo this the first time around as I assume I will blow this motor up the first go-around as most members here have with their swaps)
- Billet Pro LIM
- Edit 05/18/23: Semi P-Port Housings, will likely attempt this myself because why not?
- Atkins rebuild kit (OEM corner seals, RA Super Seals apex seals, Cryo side seals, rx8 front cover gasket, rx8 e-shaft, new bearings all around, resurfaced housings)
- Pineapple racing 1pc dowels (one solid, one hollow)
- Edit 05/18/23: Billet Rotary LIM (excessive design, with semi p-ports) Stock LIM will not fit without extensive hammering of firewall.
- Edit 05/18/23: Turblown UIM (preordered, awaiting delivery date)
- Speedmaster 1/2" stud kit
- Hoping to get Chips to balance my rotating assembly
- Nicon Rotary REW swap crossmember
- Nicon Rotary REW swap oilpan (retains rx-8 pickup tube, baffled and thick flange)
- Bosch 82mm throttle body with JDL adapter
- Franklin engineering external oil feed adapter and CVR oil relocation pedestal
- Franklin EWP adaptor to -16AN
- Various JDL block off plates for intake and omp
Drivetrain:
- JDM rx8 5spd transmission
- XClutch cushioned stage 2 clutch kit (rated for 500tq)
- Refresh clutch master and slave cylinders
- stock rear end
Electronics:
- Haltech Elite 1500 w/ IC-7 (plan to design and 3d print hood to mount above the radio)
- Rife quad sensor block (4 bar map sensor, 100, 100, 150psi sensors) Edit 12/27/22: Reworking sensor list, this will no longer be needed.
- Majority of the passenger side engine bay harness will be deleted, PSM will be relocated, and using Haltech universal harness for majority of engine control stuff.
- Fuse box delete Need to really find a way to verify which circuits in the stock fuse box I can delete (base model, no dsc, heated seats, sunroof, HID's, etc.) and consolidate to a smaller fuse box and possibly tuck inside of the car. Edit 01/20/23: Fusebox relocation is in progress. See thread for further details.
- 3x Eaton Bussmann 15303 series RFRM (5 relays, 10 fuses per)Edit: 03/22/23: GEP 96 will replace both 15303 units up front, and a single GEP 48 will be used in the rear.
- Haltech WB1 with LSU 4.9 AEM widebandEdit 01/20/23: Was able to get a slightly used unit for $200, win!
- AEMHaltech CAN thermocouple module, supports 8 (hoping for 2 egts, 2 for pre and post IC, and then room to grow more) Edit: 12/27/22: Found a NIB Haltech module on FB marketplace for $350 shipped, which is awesome since I did find out that the AEM CAN is not compatible with Haltech (Aside from their displays)
- 2x AIM X05TCM10A4515MS for water temp and possibly oil temp to use with K-type module
- MSD 4x35a SSR block to control EWP via pwm control, Defog, Blower Edit 03/22/23: Ended up finding a great solution that will not longer require this expensive SSR Block, plus take up less space. Will now use a single SSR for the EWP control.
- Battery relocated to the trunk
- to be continued once I get to the electrical stage
- Alternator recommendations? Stock? FD or rx8? (I have air suspension as well); Edit 12/01/22:Likely answer is to wire in FD alternator as off the shelf and aftermarket options are plentiful since I am making a custom harness anyways. Thanks RotaryMachineRX as usual!
Cooling:
- Davies Craig EWP 150 pump
- Summit Racing LS swap radiator (Plans are to cut and modify to fit a custom V-mount setup, trying to mimic flatout cnc's setup)
- Reuse OEM oil coolerseBay 25 row oil coolers, make braided lines.
- Setrab Remote Oil Filter Mount with Thermostat
- C7 Corvette radiator brushless fan/shroud. Soft start, variable rpm control, and more efficient than brushed motors. Should be able to be controlled via Haltech. TBD.
- Radium coolant expansion tank with swirl pot.
Turbo Setup:
- Turblown IWG short cast manifold
- EFR 9180 IWG
- 3in IC tubing
- Weld up custom IC core for V-mount
- Mishimoto IC core (MMUIC-11)
- Mishimoto Quick Release Couplers
Fuel:
- JDL Drop-in surge tank w/ lift pump; includes venturi kit. Edit 12/06/22: JDL is AMAZING and is willing to modify the hanger for fitting these large OD fuel pumps. Also modifying the hat to accept Fuelab bulkheads for a cleaner install.
- Fuelab 494 series 340lph pump for lift pump Edit 12/06/22: From my findings on Radiums site, this should be around or over 440lph at 0psi.
- x2 Fuelab Brushless 496lph fuel pumps w/ pwm control Edit 12/06/22: Deatschwerks 440 brushless pumps were a dead end, pricing was a mistake. 255lph dw300 pump arrived in its place. Will be returning.
- Radium Fuel rails
- Radium small fuel reg
- Radium fuel diaphragm
- Radium split flow for flex fuel sensor
- GM Flex Fuel Sensor (Continental 13577379)
- Deatschwerks 160mm dual stage 10 micron fuel filter (8-03-160-010K-10)
- ID injectors (1050XDS primaries, 2600XDS secondary's)
Ignition:
- AEM smart coils
- custom bracket
Probably missing stuff but it is a good start.
Currently about to remove my running motor. got hung up with all of thanksgiving travels and likely some more with Christmas, but will keep plugging away at it.
What I am looking for with the build. I really want to tidy up the engine bay and make it overall a cleaner install. hoping to have a reliable first iteration at 350whp+ on e85. I should have headroom, but want to start small. Let the games begin!
Nice summary of where you're at, I know you've been knowledge hunting for this swap for a long time on various platforms and it shows, you have most of the details worked out nicely and looks like you've sourced some quality parts . After my first read through you ask what alternator to use. Since you are doing some custom harness stuff it really come down to if you want to include alternator wiring to the ECU or not. Typically I'd recommend the Rx8 alternator for this swap because it just plugs directly into the Rx8 main harness, but that isn't the case for you. The Rx8 alternator is a "smart" alternator and is regulated by the ECU. The FD alternator is a "dumb" alternator and regulates itself. I wired in an FD alternator to my car but it was strictly because there is way more options for nice aftermarket stuff (DC Power Inc for example). Wiring in the FD alternator only requires both a 12V switched and 12V constant supply. I can't remember which one off the top of my head but a resistor needs to be wired in to one of these sources to emulate the Rx7 dash lamp, otherwise the alternator won't excite. Of course both options also need a good power cable to the battery.
Ultimately in your case, the decision is up to you:
Rx8 alternator: need to pin this to the correct ECU locations. Wiring could be incorporated into you harness for a nice clean install.
FD alternator: both 12v power sources can be obtained from the under-hood fuse box (which you may relocate). More options for aftermarket alternators. See Post 323 in my thread for description and video of how to wire this.
Last edited by RotaryMachineRx; 12-01-2022 at 05:14 PM.
oh wow, had no idea you had even actually started on it yet; go Fickert, go!!!
.
Ha! yeah the first real frost here in Ohio set the timetable for me. I have been panic ordering parts this fall for anticipation for this so its a good excuse to put some physical value to all the money I've been spending.
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
at least you were able to acquire the Nicon parts before the war started …
.
Easy to do when you ordered them over a year ago and just collected dust.
Nice summary of where you're at, I know you've been knowledge hunting for this swap for a long time on various platforms and it shows, you have most of the details worked out nicely and looks like you've sourced some quality parts . After my first read through you ask what alternator to use. Since you are doing some custom harness stuff it really come down to if you want to include alternator wiring to the ECU or not. Typically I'd recommend the Rx8 alternator for this swap because it just plugs directly into the Rx8 main harness, but that isn't the case for you. The Rx8 alternator is a "smart" alternator and is regulated by the ECU. The FD alternator is a "dumb" alternator and regulates itself. I wired in an FD alternator to my car but it was strictly because there is way more options for nice aftermarket stuff (DC Power Inc for example). Wiring in the FD alternator only requires both a 12V switched and 12V constant supply. I can't remember which one off the top of my head but a resistor needs to be wired in to one of these sources to emulate the Rx7 dash lamp, otherwise the alternator won't excite. Of course both options also need a good power cable to the battery.
Ultimately in your case, the decision is up to you:
Rx8 alternator: need to pin this to the correct ECU locations. Wiring could be incorporated into you harness for a nice clean install.
FD alternator: both 12v power sources can be obtained from the under-hood fuse box (which you may relocate). More options for aftermarket alternators. See Post 323 in my thread for description and video of how to wire this.
Noted thank you. You don't know if the alternator is controlled by an actual output of the stock ecu vs Canbus do you? I still have not gotten a solid list of what all the haltech ecu can command on the rx8 *cough* TunedByShawn plz help *cough* which is another thing that would really help me pin out my wiring harness accordingly without reusing the stock fusebox harness. Although now thinking about it, I can check the adaptronic ecu pinout and see if there is an alternator control pin there.
Regardless, I do believe going to an fd alternator will be the preferred due to the aftermarket support, and I know I will need to bump up to something decent, just not sure how big.
Excited to hear and see your progress! Great job so far.
As far as the alternator, I thought we could order an Rx8 replacement custom from DC power??? I thought they could build you anything you wanted?
Fwiw, I had my engine replaced and I was told by the experienced rebuilder he wouldn't recommend any seals but OEM while specifically singling out Atkins seals.
Fwiw, I had my engine replaced and I was told by the experienced rebuilder he wouldn't recommend any seals but OEM while specifically singling out Atkins seals.
Yeah I've contemplated going to OEM but to be honest (and I think a majority of members can agree) that the first engine for swaps tend to go south and blow or overheat due to all the variables in the swap. So I pretty much am building as stout of a budget motor that I can, as well as spending money on parts that can carry over to the next engine.
And from just gathering info over the years, I still believe strongly about engine building error + tuning and sensor wiring errors (mostly grounding) are the main culprit to seals not holding up. Obviously this will be my first big experience will all of this, so I definitely can be wrong. Just going off of what I've gathered being a shadow in the forums.
Excited to hear and see your progress! Great job so far.
As far as the alternator, I thought we could order an Rx8 replacement custom from DC power??? I thought they could build you anything you wanted?
Don't know, haven't gotten that far yet. I slowed down on buying parts for the electrical part of the swap due to so much else needs done first. I will say though I geek out over this stuff so I will be quick to jump on it when the time comes.
Does it share all the same sensors with the FD? This sensor cam with the contacts sheared off. I think I can probably solder wires to the tabs buried inside of the plastic housing, but if not I'd like to just buy a replacement.
Noted thank you. You don't know if the alternator is controlled by an actual output of the stock ecu vs Canbus do you? I still have not gotten a solid list of what all the haltech ecu can command on the rx8 *cough* TunedByShawn plz help *cough* which is another thing that would really help me pin out my wiring harness accordingly without reusing the stock fusebox harness. Although now thinking about it, I can check the adaptronic ecu pinout and see if there is an alternator control pin there.
Regardless, I do believe going to an fd alternator will be the preferred due to the aftermarket support, and I know I will need to bump up to something decent, just not sure how big.
The Alternator is not a CAN controlled item. The Adaptronic pinout for Alternator Control is 2I and for Alternator Reg Sense (Constant 12V) is 5J. My assumption is that the Haltech ECU must have the same/similar Alternator Pinouts available, if not then it's an easy decision, an FD alternator will have to be used.
Last edited by RotaryMachineRx; 12-02-2022 at 10:19 AM.
Excited to hear and see your progress! Great job so far.
As far as the alternator, I thought we could order an Rx8 replacement custom from DC power??? I thought they could build you anything you wanted?
Hmm, I wasn't aware this was an option, that's good to know and worth looking into. I actually left my harness connector for the RX8 alternator in place so I have the option of using either one in my car (an option you guys may also want to consider for how simple it actually is to do). Regardless, Dustin will be rewiring for the alternator either way. IMO you're better off buying an off the shelf alternator than having a custom one built if you are going to go the aftermarket high output route. But as mentioned above, nothing stopping you from wiring in an option to use either alternator and deciding which one to use later
So I was talking with Aaron on fb (blue REW swapped) and he just posted about upgrading his fuel setup, and getting a lift pump. We briefly talked about sizing and I did some digging. Found out Radium has a really useful chart to go off of when sizing a lift pump. This was kinda in the back of my mind, but as a street car didn't really want to worry all that much. Source
Anyways this is here if anyone needs help sizing a lift pump:
Hmm, I wasn't aware this was an option, that's good to know and worth looking into. I actually left my harness connector for the RX8 alternator in place so I have the option of using either one in my car (an option you guys may also want to consider for how simple it actually is to do). Regardless, Dustin will be rewiring for the alternator either way. IMO you're better off buying an off the shelf alternator than having a custom one built if you are going to go the aftermarket high output route. But as mentioned above, nothing stopping you from wiring in an option to use either alternator and deciding which one to use later
Thanks for this.
Still think I'll be in the boat of just going to an FD alternator. Now just to find the required resistance to get it to work. I assume this won't be hard.
470ohms! It goes in-line on the 'Lamp' post of the alternator (which is the bottom post when it is installed in the car) and is ran to a 12v switched source. I installed an "add-a-circuit" onto my 20A wiper fuse at the very top of my under hood fuse box.
EDIT: Here is some more snippets of info I used when figuring this out
Last edited by RotaryMachineRx; 12-02-2022 at 04:38 PM.
Obviously in the above post rather than use an incandescent bulb I just soldered in a 470 ohm resistor to the lamp 12v switched wire.
May as well post this here too. Here's me rambling a bit but should give you a good idea of what I did. I bought the alternator pigtail connector just off Amazon and just left the one from the RX8 harness unplugged and tucked away hidden behind the alternator if I ever need to swap an Rx8 alternator back in place.
Obviously in the above post rather than use an incandescent bulb I just soldered in a 470 ohm resistor to the lamp 12v switched wire.
May as well post this here too. Here's me rambling a bit but should give you a good idea of what I did. I bought the alternator pigtail connector just off Amazon and just left the one from the RX8 harness unplugged and tucked away hidden behind the alternator if I ever need to swap an Rx8 alternator back in place.
Side note, that's just a 12V sense so its not loaded right? Just be careful adding additional load on the the wires of the fuse box. One of mine is toasted from added a 20amp fuse to a 15 years ago and didn't see it until now.
the trans bolts right up and the connectors plug right into the rx8 harness no issues. but where did you get the trans from????
My guy in NYC wont order any more unless its with the 4port RX8 engine attached. he got pissed everyone bought the transmissions and didnt want the engines.
Originally Posted by Fickert
JDM 5 spd question,
Does it share all the same sensors with the FD? This sensor cam with the contacts sheared off. I think I can probably solder wires to the tabs buried inside of the plastic housing, but if not I'd like to just buy a replacement.
I'm possibly going to go this route also. was looking at CXRACING kit, Just need to get the engine built. and possibly thinking between adaptronic and haltech. as far as wiring both can use stock harness and my boy Kevin who Wired Rob Dahms 4 Rotor can make me anything extra wiring that might be needed. going to stay with rx8 throttle body. trying to stay away from hacking into multiple things. looking for a plug play clean instal look when done.
the trans bolts right up and the connectors plug right into the rx8 harness no issues. but where did you get the trans from????
My guy in NYC wont order any more unless its with the 4port RX8 engine attached. he got pissed everyone bought the transmissions and didnt want the engines.
Hey I think I reached out on fb and we chatted a bit.
There is a 4port and 5spd trans on ebay for 1200. I found the shop and a cell number listed, so I texted asking if they wanted to split it. surprisingly they did. So I had to buy it then. Here's there page. I dealt with Hassan. Great experience actually. If he has one tell him Dustin I sent you.
Ended up getting the engine out last night. Surprisingly the exhaust ports looked pretty clean from any carbon or oil residue. As well the intake runners and sleeves were extremely clean. I guess the leak in my oil filler neck thing paid off as it was probably shooting the excess pressurized oil out there instead of back into my intake.
Hoping to get to dismantling it today. Went a little to hard on the drinks last night at a friends birthday party and paying the price today. -.-
12-01-2022, 01:34 PM
. After my first read through you ask what alternator to use. Since you are doing some custom harness stuff it really come down to if you want to include alternator wiring to the ECU or not. Typically I'd recommend the Rx8 alternator for this swap because it just plugs directly into the Rx8 main harness, but that isn't the case for you. The Rx8 alternator is a "smart" alternator and is regulated by the ECU. The FD alternator is a "dumb" alternator and regulates itself. I wired in an FD alternator to my car but it was strictly because there is way more options for nice aftermarket stuff (DC Power Inc for example). Wiring in the FD alternator only requires both a 12V switched and 12V constant supply. I can't remember which one off the top of my head but a resistor needs to be wired in to one of these sources to emulate the Rx7 dash lamp, otherwise the alternator won't excite. Of course both options also need a good power cable to the battery.
