Likely any money you save will be offset by the engines you replace because they go boom

If you knew so much you wouldn't suggest a zero safety ECU solution that is going to result in engine failure...

 

tireslayer- Hey, whatever works for you man. If you have success with that set up, more power to you. I, however, tend to err on the side of caution with these kinds of things and would rather save money a little longer and have a bulletproof build than have my car on the road a few months sooner. My build is essentially a "budget" build too, but only where I CAN pinch pennies (i.e. instead of paying $700+ on a custom made Spearco intercooler for my v mount, I'm going to source an Evo 8 intercooler). Don't get me wrong man- I totally appreciate the input, its just not something I'm comfortable with.

 

It may be a cheap way to do it but it is 100percent SAFE !!!!! When Kyle Mohan and i reviewd my build we both said it would be a easy to get the car going . And so i did it like that.... Also cars that run under OEM tuning (are not) considered de tuned or not tuned at all . Like gramas new cadillac needs a Hatech to be tuned or its just going to blow up. Lol ......

 

The OEM ECU is designed to be run with the stock intake and exhaust....and relies heavily on closed loop operating mode. If you change the parameters that the engine sees...and alter both the intake and exhaust...and don't have the closed loop setup..you are not running it "stock"

It is easy enough to blow things up if you do it properly...this way is just going to result in a gas guzzling low power option that will likely have less power than stock

It's a shame...cause 400+ HP is relatively easy with a street port and decent turbo

I know you think you have found such an intelligent way to do it...but face the facts....there is a reason that FD's have used PowerFC's and other less than ideal units over the years...the stock ECU doesn't work unless "stock" is what you have

 

^THIS. Tireslayer- you do it your way, I'll do it my way. I've tried to politely decline your suggestion but I'll be blunt- there will be NO chance in hell a stock FD ECU will make its way anywhere near my car, period. Again, if it works for you, great- not my idea of a good idea though.

 

Okay, UPDATE!

I've decided to run the REW front cover afterall. Just seems like a better option honestly. Also, this'll allow me to run whatever FD oil pan I desire. Was thinking of a stock pan, but then saw the one offered by Xcessive...

Online Store - Xcessive Manufacturing

... Wonder if that would be a problem, considering it was previously mentioned that the stock oil pan will protrude pretty low.

 

it says the engine will be raised 5/16", going to be even tighter between the oil filter housing area and the firewall

 

No need to not use the REW oil pan. I say save the money and use it else where in your build.
I'm pretty sure that oil pan will hang lower that the stock REW pan.
Just my 2 cents

.

 

That's a Non issue really. .. the oil filter pedestal doesn't fit anyway it likely will be a problem at the UIM at the passenger corner...and will likely hang down too far

 

Definitely appreciate the input, and after further research, I'll be going with a stock REW pan after all. Now to figure out which trigger wheel to use (8 or FD) and what sensors I'll need to retain.

 

You can get nice trigger kits from Full Function Engineering.

 

^Yeah, I'm definitely going with a hall sensor upgrade, just uncertain whether I need the FD version or the RX-8 version.

 

If you intend to use the factory ecu for supporting functions you'll need to stay with the factory reluctor trigger, according to FFE there was no advantage to the Hall upgrade on the RX8 regardless.

The upgrade is for a total aftermarket ecu conversionwith a non-RX8 trigger wheel

 

Ah okay, so the stock RX-8 wheel/sensor would probably be my best bet then?

 

Yes, that much less to spend ....

edit: it was Adaptronic that recommended staying the the OE trigger if possible:

FFE hall sensor trigger kit - RX7Club.com



.

 

Awesome, that simplifies things. Now, just have to come up with a mounting solution for the sensor on the REW front cover.

 

Fister Roboto why did you decide not to use the Rx8 front cover? What modifications need to be made? I just acquired a rew and I'm on a 3 year plan to get it swapped into my 8!

 

Warrior- Awesome man, congrats. It's a good feeling lol. Clean Shinka, btw, wish mine was copper red instead of velocity red.

As far as the front cover is concerned, I just feel more comfortable not having to modify the oil pan to fit, especially considering my limited options and the fact that REW oil pans are notorious for leaking as it is. Plus, of the handful of people I've talked to with REW's, the majority use the REW cover, I just have to ask more questions regarding their CAS placement.

 

Whatever option you chose...... just make sure the CAS signal to the ECU is clean and interference free. I had an issue with mine that cost me an engine

 

^Yeah, see, that terrifies me lol.

 

Awesome thanks for the help guys.

Correct me if i'm wrong but if i use the Rx8 front cover and piggy an after market ems to control the engine and leave the stock ecu to control the rest, the rx8 cas will be plug and play correct?

 

Just make sure the CAS signal is good and clean...when you add wiring to it it can get cranky......

Any interference will cause missfires....not a good thing on a boosted engine

 

Ok I will make sure! Thanks!

 

If you used the stock cover and all sensors , could you use a Cobb or Mazda edit setup ?

 

Theoretically yes...but the problem is that the stock ECU and flash tuning isn't ideal for FI setups in the first place...and adding the HP that the REW would allow it would be even less ideal