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Old Jun 22, 2012 | 05:58 PM
  #76  
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Lol yeah it's nuts! I drove around quite a bit today. It wasn't terrible, but it'd be nice if they settled a bit more. I think I'll be pretty happy with em after that.
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Old Jul 27, 2012 | 09:37 PM
  #77  
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Anyone else have issues replacing their oil filter after installing these mounts? I guess when these mounts raise the engine the oil filter moves so close to the back wall I can't fit my oil filter wrench cap on it.. My hands are too big to reach in there so I ended up having to pierce the filter with a screw driver a few times and push on it to turn the filter.. PITA
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Old Jul 28, 2012 | 01:44 AM
  #78  
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No didn't have any issues here, yeah its a little tighter spot but not to crazy
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Old Jul 28, 2012 | 07:36 PM
  #79  
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A little..? I'm looking at a 1/8" gap or less between the filter and the wall. Also I ordered the official Mazda oil filter cap should come in soon, I've been using the Oreillys cheap one so we'll see..love the mounts though!
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 03:57 PM
  #80  
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I've had mine on for a couple thousand miles now, and am VERY happy with them. Issues, though: 1) MAJOR vibrations at first due to my high flow cat resting against the heat shield (nothing a rubber mallet couldn't fix) and 2)oil leak caused by the passenger side mount deforming the edge of the oil pan lip (just placed lock washer between mount and engine today; hoping this offset fixes the 2-3 drips/day). LOVE the smoothness of the idle and shifting now!
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Old Aug 20, 2012 | 06:01 PM
  #81  
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Just a small warning to all, today at my mech, we found that the head of one of the bolts near the oil pan holding the passenger side mount in plate seared off (most likely caused by stress)

I thought it was my exhaust rattling or a blown shock but nope, just the hole engine slightly bouncing lol
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Old Aug 20, 2012 | 06:44 PM
  #82  
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Pictures?
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Old Aug 20, 2012 | 07:50 PM
  #83  
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I tried to get pics but my phone was in the car while it was on the lift

But to describe it, right above the oil pan, there's 2 bolts securing the motor mount on the passenger side. The mount had bent outwards and the bolt closer to the front of the car had no more head on it anymore. I'm not sure if that bolt was OEM or supplied with the mounts. My mech had to remove the mount and straighten it out, then reinstall it with a new bolt.
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Old Aug 20, 2012 | 07:56 PM
  #84  
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if it was the OEM bolt, it would have been to long, and not fit the mount flush with motor, if it was the ones that came with the kit, i believe they were black (i could be wrong).

I ran the OEM bolts for a month or so till the bolts could get ordered from Raceroots to swap them out with shorter ones. the mount looked flush on top but on the bottom there was actually about 1/4'' gap. I had pictures of it at one time.
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 05:32 PM
  #85  
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I finally remembered to take pictures this time around. Not sure if this is bad, or whatever. Dunno if Brice can do anything about it.

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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 10:44 PM
  #86  
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Did the mount make the oil pan leak...or is that another issue?
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 10:51 PM
  #87  
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Separate issue.

Was actually at the shop to get the pan repaired. Just applied a new layer of silicone (the grey stuff in the pics).
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 11:23 PM
  #88  
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If the mount pushed on the flange at all out will sit the RTV and it will leak ..
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 04:31 PM
  #89  
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It was leaking before I even got these mounts. Although I hope I don't have further problems.

The pics are more to show how the mounts bent somehow... It was actually much worse, this is after putting them into a vice grip and bending them back.
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 06:16 PM
  #90  
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You would be the first with a problem like this, we supply shorter bolts with installation. If they were not used that would definitely cause this issue because the OEM bolts are too long.
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 06:39 PM
  #91  
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Definitely used all the supplied bolts that came with the mounts. Then one's head sheared off and then we replaced it with another aftermarket bolt (which you don't see in the pictures).

Even if I tried to put the longer OEM bolt in, you'd notice a gap, so yeah, didn't use the OEM bolt for sure.
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 04:30 PM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by Race Roots
Yes it can.
this is your answer at my questions....
but I've a big problem with mounts and greddy turbo kit.
the engine is sitting a bit higher and the turbo slams at the frame.
I can't put it in my turbo rx-8.
everything else have put this mounts in a greddy turbo rx-8?
how i can fix it?

I'm going crazy, I've buy it for the turbo and my first question was can I fit it with the greddy turbo kit?

help!
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Old Nov 24, 2012 | 01:45 AM
  #93  
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A bolt from the motor mounts got cut off again

wtfffff
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Old Dec 9, 2012 | 01:07 AM
  #94  
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Another heads up...

Another bolt stripped out, but this time the one that bolts into the subframe (passenger side mount).

It vibrated out over time and de-threaded the hole in the subframe

Now I need to either drop the subframe and rethread the hole or weld the motor mount to the subframe to solve my problem....

Things others might want to watch out.
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Old Dec 9, 2012 | 01:55 PM
  #95  
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Yeah these mounts did the same to mine twice before I decided to uninstall them. I hated the vibration btw. It seems like the mounts keep warping also. Munchy, it looked warped in your picture.
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Old Dec 9, 2012 | 02:30 PM
  #96  
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weird.. daily drove mine, and tracked, no issues... have removed few times, and still no issues..
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Old Dec 9, 2012 | 04:43 PM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by lordagrabah
Yeah these mounts did the same to mine twice before I decided to uninstall them. I hated the vibration btw. It seems like the mounts keep warping also. Munchy, it looked warped in your picture.
Yeah, they bent when one of the bolts came out...

Anyone know if I can put the stock mounts back even the subframe screw hole having no threads?

Or will I have the same problem?
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Old Dec 9, 2012 | 04:49 PM
  #98  
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You likely could add a nut underneath..will need a longer bolt and likely need to drill out the hole to make it easier. Might need to cut an access hole underneath if you cant fish the nut under there.

The OEM mount would still be held on with one nut if you didn't fix it

You might also be able to tap out the hole and go to a bigger bolt....often an SAE size will need minimal increase to tap it and get full threads...
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Old Dec 9, 2012 | 07:36 PM
  #99  
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Problem with rethreading the hole for now is that it's a $$$ job cause my mech told me he'd have to drop the subframe.
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Old Dec 9, 2012 | 10:27 PM
  #100  
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I would be tight...but there should be enough room in there...you would need a pneumatic 90deg drill in order to do it...but it should work.....
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