second gear grinding
#1
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second gear grinding
So after I took the car to jiffy lube to change the transmission oil and rear differential at 60,000 miles, went I start the car in the morning its hard to go it to first gear. So I went back to have them check the lever and if was fine. So I figure it was because its new oil, after it gets warm up it goes away!
Now am at 65,000 miles and went I down shift to 2nd gear( normal driving, hwy 60mph, going from 6 to 2 gear to slow the car down) it grind the gear , it has done this to me three times it the pass three times I have drive the car. So I remember a letter I got from Mazda about the clutch pedal maybe breaking so it wood make it hard to shift in to some gears.
So I found the letter and went to milan Mazda and they comferm the bulletin, so I have an appointment next monday to check this out.
Has anybody local, had this problem. any advise wood be greatly appreciated, and yes I did try to read all the treads about this, some say it the oil, the gears, the syncro,engine mount, clutch line,.......
Now am at 65,000 miles and went I down shift to 2nd gear( normal driving, hwy 60mph, going from 6 to 2 gear to slow the car down) it grind the gear , it has done this to me three times it the pass three times I have drive the car. So I remember a letter I got from Mazda about the clutch pedal maybe breaking so it wood make it hard to shift in to some gears.
So I found the letter and went to milan Mazda and they comferm the bulletin, so I have an appointment next monday to check this out.
Has anybody local, had this problem. any advise wood be greatly appreciated, and yes I did try to read all the treads about this, some say it the oil, the gears, the syncro,engine mount, clutch line,.......
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Yes, I agree. But I wanted them to check the clutch pedal first since my warranty ends in Feb. 2012. If that is not the problem I will change the oil my self with Royal purple!
#4
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First off there's really no reason to down shift from 6th to 2nd on the highway, and unless you're rev matching then you're beating the crap out of your synchros for no reason. Which in this case a 6th to 2nd downshift at 60mph would require you to rev over 8,000rpm for you to properly rev match. You're better off downshifting progressively 6-5-4-3-2 blipping the throttle in between to rev match each downshift.
It could be the fluid, it could be a bad synchro, it also could be you, who really knows.
It could be the fluid, it could be a bad synchro, it also could be you, who really knows.
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First off there's really no reason to down shift from 6th to 2nd on the highway, and unless you're rev matching then you're beating the crap out of your synchros for no reason. Which in this case a 6th to 2nd downshift at 60mph would require you to rev over 8,000rpm for you to properly rev match. You're better off downshifting progressively 6-5-4-3-2 blipping the throttle in between to rev match each downshift.
It could be the fluid, it could be a bad synchro, it also could be you, who really knows.
It could be the fluid, it could be a bad synchro, it also could be you, who really knows.
Well I don't, I have alway down shifted like this.
Today I was driving back home, the same rout on my Hyundai scoop turbo 1993 (daily driver), So I made shore I was at 60mph, got on the exit (normal driving) and down shifted to 2nd, and nothing, no problem at all, and I toke it in and out of gear twice and then let the clutch out around 40 mph to come to a complete stop, and thats my point if am at over 45mph and I try to put it in second gear it does not want to go in. I am not racing am trying to come to a complete stop, sense there is a light at the end and if i happened to get the green light I can hold the car with the 2nd gear and take a great exiting, left turn in to an other hwy around 40mph, that puts a smile on my face!!
I have had the car for the past 5 years, I take very good care of it as I don't drive it every day, sense i work only 2 miles down the street. I started this tread to see if anybody local had this problem and for future referents for anybody else, sense I will put the result at the end! I did try downshifting from 4 to 2 and 3 to 2 and if am over 45mph is the same problem, it will not go in once am at 40 or less it will go in.
I will post update after monday with my finding!
#7
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First,
NEVER BRING YOUR CAR TO JIFFY LUBE!
Now that that's out of the way..
If it was your pedal you wouldn't be able to put it in gear at all plus it would squeaky and feel really flimsy. Also, downshifting from 6 to 2nd is really bad on the transmission... and if you do not know how to rev match, you're going to be eating up tires as well as messing you your synchros.
Redline makes great transmission oil.
NEVER BRING YOUR CAR TO JIFFY LUBE!
Now that that's out of the way..
If it was your pedal you wouldn't be able to put it in gear at all plus it would squeaky and feel really flimsy. Also, downshifting from 6 to 2nd is really bad on the transmission... and if you do not know how to rev match, you're going to be eating up tires as well as messing you your synchros.
Redline makes great transmission oil.
Last edited by LifeAfterRx8; 11-17-2011 at 12:51 AM.
#8
Mr. Örange
Here's a good little tip. If you want to drop from 6th to a smaller gear, try 3rd. It is super easy to rev match. If you are doing 50 MPH rev the engine to 5000 RPMs and drop it in 3rd. If you are doing 75MPH raise the RPMs to 7500. If you're doing 38 MPH rev it to 3800 RPMS and so on..... this only works for 3rd.
6th gear MPH is X2 what the RPMs are (I am not talking about gear ratios) 30 (x 100) RPMs is 60 MPH, 40 (x100) RPMS is 80 MPH
3rd is a 1:1 and 6th is a 1:2 (or is it a 2:1) (again I am not talking about gear ratios but what is on the dials)
6th gear MPH is X2 what the RPMs are (I am not talking about gear ratios) 30 (x 100) RPMs is 60 MPH, 40 (x100) RPMS is 80 MPH
3rd is a 1:1 and 6th is a 1:2 (or is it a 2:1) (again I am not talking about gear ratios but what is on the dials)
Last edited by TANKERG; 11-17-2011 at 09:55 PM.
#10
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Well, I finally change the transmission and differential oil to royal purple. What a differences, it feels like silk went you shift now in to gears, even went am going from 6th to 2nd. Thank god I don't drive the car daily to have cause damage to the transmission with that cheap *** oil jiffy lube puts on!
FYI you want to use redline or Royal Purple for the Transmission or Differential 75w90
tool 24mm and 23mm socket torque 29-30
FYI you want to use redline or Royal Purple for the Transmission or Differential 75w90
tool 24mm and 23mm socket torque 29-30
#11
I second the Redline MT-90 switch. I changed mine initially to Mobil 1 75w-90, and almost immediately started having issues shifting into 2nd and 4th. Changed that out with the Redline, and it almost as immediately started working normally again. It actually did take a couple drives before it was back to normal, presumably to get the Mobil 1 that was coating everything to blend fully with the Redline.
From the research I did on this, it seems that some oils are actually too slippery for transmissions, which makes the synchro's job harder since they use friction to match the speed of the gears with that of the output shaft. Too little friction, and they can't match it up in a timely manner, causing the grinding when going into gear.
From the research I did on this, it seems that some oils are actually too slippery for transmissions, which makes the synchro's job harder since they use friction to match the speed of the gears with that of the output shaft. Too little friction, and they can't match it up in a timely manner, causing the grinding when going into gear.
#13
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Although RedLine is a popular and favorite trans fluid for the RX-8, the crew at BHR all use Eneos 75W90 in our manual transmissions (both on the street and at the track) without any trouble, whatsoever, which is why we sell it to our customers. The Mobil1 tranny fluid used to work in the RX-8 but that was a few years ago and their new blend of 75W90 does not seem to work well.
Your research was/is somewhat correct; modern transmission have "multi-cone" synchronizers that require a specific coefficient of friction in order to shift properly. When the trans fluid CLINGS to the synchros they do not speed up or slow down properly so as to match the speed of the input shaft as your gears are shifted upward or downward. In other words, synchros need to be able to quickly change their rotational speed and fluids can alter this ability, resulting in less-than-stellar shifting. Royal Purple fluids have not had a great history with the RX-8 transmisison but maybe they have changed their formula recently.
Your research was/is somewhat correct; modern transmission have "multi-cone" synchronizers that require a specific coefficient of friction in order to shift properly. When the trans fluid CLINGS to the synchros they do not speed up or slow down properly so as to match the speed of the input shaft as your gears are shifted upward or downward. In other words, synchros need to be able to quickly change their rotational speed and fluids can alter this ability, resulting in less-than-stellar shifting. Royal Purple fluids have not had a great history with the RX-8 transmisison but maybe they have changed their formula recently.
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