Anyone local have an OEM catalytic converter laying around? Maybe from a test-pip/high-flow swap.

Yesterday morning she was lacking power (may even have started Thursday night). I've done all the other maintenance in hopes of it being something silly (decarb, oil/filter, air filter, plugs) to no avail (though she does start easier and idle more smoothly). At this point, even in idle, she rev's to 3K no problem, to 6K with a bit of difficulty, and slowly to 9K. She cant' even get to the rev limiter in neutral.

She's still under emissions warranty (79,8xx miles) but I can't drive 'er in this condition, and it's sunny out.

 

Well folks, the story isn't getting any better. I dropped Ruby off at Lee Johnson this morning (around 8-8:30), and fully expecting it to be a fairly straight forward procedure, I took their courtesy shuttle to work. Around 2:30 this afternoon I called for an update. Apparently she'd been "in the shop for quite a while" so Scott had to "go check and get back to me." Around 4:15 I received a call from the shuttle driver saying he was told I needed to come get a loaner. He didn't know what was wrong, but he was told it definitely wouldn't be done today.

So when I get back to the service department I learn that she's running rich and the compression is low so they're going to have to do a vacuum test in the morning. I'm stuck driving a 3 for the time being, which for a small economy car isn't bad, but I really can't stand it. FWD, slush box, the auto-stick thingy is slow to respond, just not the same kind of car as the RX-8. Here's hoping all is well. I can't stand the idea of an extended period without my baby.

 

Yikes Kristopher! I hope Ruby is out and running good by this weekend!!

 

New Motor in the OK Corral

 

Welcome to the new motor club!

Hey you can probably bring them your transmission and they should swap it for you for free!

Let us know how it goes.

 

Ithink the catalytic converter should be replaced by Mazda under the emmissions warranty. 80,000 miles and 8 years....

 

Your motor could be bad or it could be the cat. However, these symptoms are similar to fuel pump problems too.

Not sure if it's related or not but my dad was told he needed a new motor around 78k miles. It failed the compression test. After the motor was installed they determined his fuel pump was bad too. Would a failing fuel pump throw off the compression test?

 

I doubt it's the fuel pump. She's running rich, not lean. Indicates unburned fuel. I'm hoping it's just that she needs to rebuild compression after the decarb, but we'll see. 10:30 and no call from Scott means I'm starting to get extra nervous. No seconds at dinner last night, only a couple hours of sleep, and so far just a single cup of cocoa this morning. I guess I'll be draining Rose' fuel tank and trying to get her started if Ruby doesn't come home soon.

 

Can you realistically take Rose out this weekend if Ruby isn't back?

Hoping that doesn't happen for you

 

I don't know. I'll get in there this evening and tomorrow and see if I can get her to build compression. If so, I think she'll run well enough (I used to chase down FD's with her). If not, the 3 handles okay, I'm just picky.

 

If it comes down to it I'll certainly ask. It's too bad Ray had to halt production on the clutch kits. If those were still rolling out, I'd consider doing clutch and flywheel too, if I find work in time .

 

Well, just got off the phone with Scott at LJ Mazda. Compression is between 5.4 and 6.0 on all three faces of both rotors. They're filling out the paperwork to get the warranty engine shipped. I'll get another call from him either later today or sometime tomorrow.

No pop. No grind, and I've driven the car the way the engineers intended. I guess I'm a convert to the "it's totally random" club regarding engine failures.

Thicker oil and religous pre-mixing from here on out.

If I weren't at work I'd find a corner to lie down and cry in.

 

I have my old RP Supercat midpipe (with hanger installed) in my garage if you need it. It's pretty clean and should last awhile longer.

 

I also have the OEM midpipe/cat sans hanger in the basement if needed. Just has a hole in it where I torched off the above mentioned hanger.

 

Thanks, Kevin. At this point it appears my woes are a bit more pronounced than a bad cat.

 

I know, just trying to cheer you up. I've been running the Ford Motorcraft 5W20 Sythnetic Blend for oil changes, and topping off with Castrol 5W20 dino oil along with Pettit Racing Protek-R Premix. I started the premix about 30K miles ago when I was at 40K on the engine. How many miles on your car now?

 

Depending on whether he's messing with me or not, a guy at work may be willing to lend me his M3 for the drive.

 

Well at least you're getting a new engine for free! Sorry to hear it all the same.

 

786xx. I was fully expecting to trip 79K over the weekend.

It's strange that it's all 3 faces on both rotors that are low. It wasn't a catastrophic incident, so what the heck happened? She was pulling fine Thursday on my way to work. Hell when was that Dyno Day DMP organized in Puyallup? She was still running strong then.

I'm just despondent tonight. I want my car back so I can go drive.

Here's where things start to get interesting. Scott was saying that the costs will be "mostly" covered by Mazda. So what is it they're expecting me to pay for.

Plugs? Move over the BRAND NEW ones that have less than 50 total miles on them.
Air/oil fitlers? Move over the BRAND NEW ones that have less than 50 total miles on them.
Oil? Transfer over the BRAND NEW stuff that has less than 50 miles on it.
Coils/Wires? Use the ones in there that have 1000 miles plus whatever Shaun put on them.
Starter? That original unit was doing just fine when i took her in.
Labor? Give me the retail price of the motor and I'll fly CRH out here to do a swap.

I'll get more details tomorrow, but I'm certainly not authorizing anything that isn't absolutely necessary to make good on the warranty extension, so there better damn well not be any costs.

 

Yeah. they should cover whatever is needed to replace your motor and get your car up and running again. That' the point!

 

Are all of those miles yours? How many are highway and how many are city? This is perplexing at best.

 

i agree,

if they try to charge you for anything, ask the service manager to use his or her phone and call mazda usa from his or her office..

btw, dont know how soon it is going to happen, but if it is out get a new clutch in at the same time.

charles has a great price on the exedy stage 1 clutch. works great. if you are going to be at 400 whp soon, get something better.

beers

 

Every last one of those miles is mine. Less than 15K are commute miles. The rest wre piled on using the car the way the engineers intended. Lots of throttle, lots of brake, and lots of steering.

Thanks for the advice swoope. I was just checking the BHR thread and decided against doing the clutch right now since BHR/Spec clutch kit's are suspended pending the resolution of manufacturing issues. I've done plenty of clutch swaps in other cars, and crawling around under the 8, it doesn't look too much worse, so I'll just wait on that. I'll do flywheel and clutch during the winter or early spring.

 

Wow Kris - I really REALLY REALLY hope they take care of you through this. :-/

Very frustrating, I'm sure. Did they really as you to pay for labor???? On warrantied parts? You 'should' not have to pay for anything related to removing and replacing the warrantied parts, right?

 

Ouch man... just ouch. If you're really stuck with the 3 for the weekend and not a friend's M3 let us know, maybe we can work something out where you swap between other cars there to lead... (I'd be up for letting you drive mine anyway, but I'd want to drive part of the day too )