A 10" shorter belt allows me to remove the AC compressor and bracket so I can deal with that later. Almost ready to start mocking up engine mounts. Hopefully I can get the engine in by October then start plumbing and wiring. The manifold has to be tacked together while on the engine and it's easier to push the car to the welder then to transport the engine.

 

I think I found a way to bang together a quick intake until I have time to do it right. Gets the car going NA. Turbos next summer.

Ford Escort 1.9L intakes.

 

the casting thing does look like a lot of fun. for the PP we ended up 3D printing all the flanges to make sure they fit (i measured it, it HAS to be wrong, right?), and when they did we had them made in aluminum, and bought a U bend, it is a P port, its 2 pipes.

 

Mock-up bracket for the RX8 ESS. Still have to knock down 2 corners. I'll make a nicer billet one when round 2 starts next summer.

 

My friend and I have been working on the driveshaft solution. Seems the Rodeo transmission output flange can be slightly modified to fit the Solstice trans. Makes sense since both transmissions are AR5/MA5. The Rodeo driveshaft contains a slip joint and is available OEM in aluminum and uses standard 1310 u-joints. The driveshaft will be shortened and I either keep the 1310 yoke or swap to a 7260 Dodge yoke. The reason to use a 7260 is because I can get a 7260 yoke flange designed for the RX7 but fits the RX8 diff's pinion flange which is 96/4 square with a 45mm spigot, same as the 8. I can also get a 1310 to 7260 transition u-joint but I'm trying to keep things standard so when I need a part I can hike over to Napa and get it.


Rodeo driveshaft pic.

 

Scratch that. The RX7 stock flange yoke uses the same u-joint as the Rodeo. Well that was easy.

EDIT - Scratch that again. That the 100th time Napa's site glitch out on a vehicle change and listed parts for the previous vehicle.

I did source an FC driveshaft and it turned out to be an aftermarket replacement with removable u-joints. It uses Dodge 7260 u-joints. Easily adaptable with a transition u-joint.

Still researching...

 

Going to update this to keep track...

Transmission output flange - '98 Rodeo
Driveshaft - '98 Rodeo
RX8 differential flange - use RX7 replacement driveshaft flange (Detroit 7260 u-joint)
Rear u-joint - '90 Dakota 4x4 front driveshaft. (AZ# 2-3100DL) (Transition u-joint from Detroit 7260 to Spicer 1310)
For 1310 u-joint (AZ 1-0153DL Rodeo) use Rockford R2-2-3173 yoke flange.

 

This worked out great. RX7 yoke flange (7260) to Isuzu Rodeo driveshaft (1310) using a '90 Dakota u joint. Just need the Rodeo companion joint to bolt it up.

 

Also started on the manifold. Both sides' runners tacked in place. Need to measure for the plenum and cut them down.

 

Driveshaft solved. Ended up finding a '95 Rodeo companion flange will work with minimal modification. Driveshaft is also '95 Rodeo. Just need it lengthened and it'll bolt right in. Would post a pic but the site is refusing uploads again.

 

Taking notes on your drive shaft solution

 

It finally worked. Going with the smaller '95 shaft allow it to fit under the shifter bracket without having to notch the bracket.

 

Like a glove.

 

Hello KickerFox.


Firstly thanks for posting this informative discussion and persisting though all the haters. You live your quote: "Condemnation without investigation is the highest form of ignorance."


To all the haters, stop hating and get with the program, this swap rocks.


I'm embarking on a similar project soon. I'm inspecting engines at the moment. the plan is to drop one of these little beauties of a V6 into a Datsun 180B (P610 for the rest of the world.) The information and trouble shooting you've down will no doubt be invaluable to me.


I came to likely the same conclusion you did. The 6VD1 is just about the only compact aluminium RWD V6 with a manual box that is really commonly available outside of expensive Fly-by-wire options (GM alloytec, Nissan VQ35/37, Toyota 1GR-FE.) Hell I can get a complete package engine, gearbox, tranny, electronics, and accessories for <$500AUD!!! how awesome is that.


Keep up the good work
Jordan

 

That sounds like a cool build. Have you started on it yet? Keep me posted. Thanks for the kind words.

 

Wow! Okay?!?

Hey KickerFox, do you realize that your hanging out with douchebags?!? Dude, you rock and are way better than the RX8club deserves. Please accept my invitation to bring this build thread over to GrassRoots Motorsports. You will find yourself surrounded by some of the best motorsports folks I've ever met. You will also find much support and encouragement for some really smart and creative folks not unlike yourself.

Once your with us you'll forget all about this thread just like i did when i made my one post here a month ago.
bye bye!

 

Sponsor it and I'll head right over.

 

I got a little more work done on the intake. I'm trying to find velocity stacks but I can make them for what these places are charging. They should be under $10 for billet in mass production.

Once I find those I can cut the runners down to size, start smoothing out the bores, and get the plenum built. My band saw is down at the moment though.

 

Look for used motorcycle velocity stacks. They are generally very cheap.

 

I have found a few for old bikes but finding 6 is the hard part.

 

Find 2 set of triumph ones
Or just buy 2 sets of these: Empi Weber 48mm Ida Set of 4 Stock Velocity Stacks | eBay
They look fine, 48mm should be enough for your current spec level.

 

My runners are 39mm ID and 48mm OD. Those may clamp on or could be tacked. I wish I had the time and money to do this right but a $1000 manifold just isn't in the budget. I really just want to get it up and running NA for now and deal with the turbos next spring. That allows me to save up for good injectors and maybe an EMS.

 

If you're on a tight budget just build a 15l airbox somehow and live with it 'till the time is right.

 

Ha! Lol I'll have to put it in the trunk.

 

kickerfox,

Was there no one that could just make you a custom driveshaft? I imagine your solution was more economical, but just a little more work!

PST driveshaft in Florida made me a 3" aluminum driveshaft for $399 incl front and rear yolk/flange. May have been simpler for me with the RX8 rear and T56 front.

Progress is looking great! You will love the torque feel! I certainly have been loving driving mine this summer Think im up to about 17 guys now, meeting at car shows and them trying to explain to me why a 20B or 4 rotor would have been a better choice LOL. Sorry dudes, all have apex seals, and all are still a rotary, which doesnt solve my problem of not feeling any desire to get good with rotary engines lol.