It is the KL swap. I decided to use the RX8 flywheel, the 231bhp one as it holds a larger friction disc compared to the 192bhp version. I had it machined at work and a spacer of about 16mm to distance it so the starter motor engages the flywheel right. The starter on the 8 bolts to the gearbox so that makes it easy. It wasn't too difficult. I'll try to post photos.

 

Not yet but I will be. Mine is starting to crack already.



Looking forward to seeing it. Did you use the RX-8 pressure plate?

 

Not bought the clutch yet but from the flywheel to the rear wheels it's all RX8. So it makes the set up easy. I used the whiteness marks on the starter motor from the flywheel to get the flywheel position. If anything it will be 1mm to 1.5mm away from the engine which will mean the piston in the slave cylinder will be further in, which is good.

 

Do you have a build thread going for it? I'm looking forward to your swap. I've always had the opinion that the 8 and the Miata were great platforms for a v6.

 

As far as my project, I'm looking into a few different clutch slave cylinders. The one that's working now is from the Colorado and requires a 1.4" spacer behind it. A few other cars like the Viper, Mustang, Camaro, Corvette, and Ford trucks use a taller slave. Advanced Auto had the Ford truck slave in stock so I grabbed the measurements off it to see if it'll do anything for me.

It's hard to settle on an ideal combination. There's a lot of pros and cons to weigh. It may seem like I'm all over the place with the project but it's all going to come together at once some day.

 

Finally found the right ream to fit the orings.

 

Jeep clutch master in place. It has the same bolt pattern as Wilwood so I'm mocked up for many options.

 

The clutch is FINALLY working right!

Something was funny about this clutch and it took awhile to figure it out. I knew all my volume calculations were right and there's no reason things shouldn't have been working correctly, but they weren't. When the pedal was released, I couldn't push in the slave cylinder. Normally the fluid would be pushed back into the reservoir but this wasn't the case. I triple checked everything I built and it was fine. Well, yet again, I find myself re-machining OEM defects.

This master cylinder has a push rod that's held in with a washer and a snap-ring on top of it. Turns out the rod was a little too tight and it was holding the piston in just far enough to close the valve that lets fluid return to the reservoir.

The 13/16" Jeep master was just what the doctor ordered. My pedal feel, throw, and disc dis-engagement is perfect.

These companies make a hell of a lot more money then I do but they can sure F things up. I feel sorry for the guy who would have bought this part and wondered why he's burning up throw-out bearings every week or why his new clutch slipped. Good thing I caught it.

Well at least now I know it'll be good for 100k miles.

 

Reordered the remaining engine parts that I used up on the Amigo. Also found a dozen 1.5" ID aluminum elbows and a dozen 5" x 1.5" ID straight tubes from the scrap yard for $20 bucks for all of them. Sure beats retail!

I can't decide if I want to pull the heads apart or not. They don't have any problems but I should at least have them cleaned, resurfaced, and new valve seals put in.

The front sub-frame is getting pulled soon to finish the mounts for the steering rack. It's a good time to sandblast and paint it while it's out.

I forget if I mentioned a shifting issue with the Solstice transmission. I fixed that and another issue I found, with the 3-4 shift rail, that was causing 4th not to fully engage the splines. Now it shifts perfectly. .020" off on the detent and .100" off on the rail stop. How **** like that makes it through GM inspections is beyond me. Actually, no it isn't.

 

 

Amigo finally sold. Made $1100 profit on it. Not bad for using up leftover parts from the first engine. Rails done except for the mounts and a few AN fittings on back order. The new gaskets, water and oil pumps, timing set, etc. are all here. Ordering elbows and pipe for the intake tonight or tomorrow.

I love shopping sprees. I should be logging the costs but I'll catch up on that later.

 

Hello, Kickerfox! I am from Russia and I have 6ve1 on my isuzu vehicross. I put to the engine magnuson MP90. In that time I have boost 0,4 bar (with standart Ecu), I can have more (0,8 - 1 bar). But I have one little problem ;-) standart Ecu isuzu... Maf sensor work very bad with big volume. The composition of the fuel mixture becomes very poor, the power decreases. You write that can fool the MAF sensor? This is so? I don't want to buy expensive piggyback for this. Thank you.

 

The Isuzu MAF sensor grounds a 5v signal (provided by the ECU) at a frequency proportionate to airflow. The circuit I made takes a 0-5v signal from a piggyback ECU and converts it into the frequency the Isuzu ECU is expecting. It still requires a piggyback.

A friend tested the circuit in his Amigo but was having trouble making it work right. I don't know if it was an error in the design or an error on his part. He mailed it back to me but I haven't checked it over yet.

 

Thanks for the reply! Expect news on this issue .

 

Hello, Kickerfox! How are your piggyback for the isuzu Maf? You find the error? Thanks!

 

Not yet. I haven't had any time to work on the car lately. Just little things here and there. I need to catch up on another project first. Are you able to etch a PCB? I could send you the board layout if it'll help.

 

Is this swap going to happen ?

 

Of course, but it takes time. I don't have a money tree or a machine shop at my disposal. The remaining parts have to be fabricated by CNC and CNC time isn't cheap. Once that's done, I just have to assemble it.


That's the fun parts about custom swaps. Any idiot can buy an LSx kit and be on their way. Custom swap take time because no one's done the legwork or made the parts for me.

 

no idiot can buy a turn key ls swap which would be better than swapping a truck motor but i cant wait to see the dyno tq curve graph

 

It would be great! I can produce electronic unit independently. You wrote that in design there is a problem, you know what is the problem? you can send me to email?

 

If you arr referring to LS1RX8 or Hinsom "kits" then you arr very wrong. Engine mounts are cake to build. Trans mount is easier. Wiring isnt difficult either. Hard part on a "custom" uncharted swap is having the foresight to plan well enough to only have to redo some stuff. Seems like you should have chosen a different engine. I know im not alone when i dont associate Isuzu and performance. Never heard of a "torquey" Amigo.

 

One resistor needs to be changed to increase the pulse width. The guy I built it for was having trouble with the Isuzu ECU accurately reading it. The pulse may be too short. Yes I can send it to you. Let me figure out which revision we used.



Go drive a 5-speed Amigo. It's a pretty peppy truck even though it's heavy. I was a bit surprised. Opel won the DTM in '96 using a Cosworth-built de-stroked to 2.5L Isuzu 3.2L v6. NA turned 580hp at 15,000rpm.


I'm not an Isuzu fan. Never was. I'd never associate the name with performance either. Only Isuzu I've owned was only for a few months. Most of that time was spent rebuilding the engine. But I don't judge the name. Like I've said before. An engine is an engine to me. The name tag is meaningless. It's how it's designed that counts. And after all this time you guys have yet to explain WHY it's a bad engine. lol You just keep on bitching about it.


So yes. ANY engine can be built for performance. Some stock engines have features that make it better suited for a performance build. Better flowing heads, stronger block, ect. Sometimes stock internals can handle significantly more power then intended. Since it was designed to go in a 4x4 truck, it's built better. Just like the 350 SBC. The truck blocks had the 4-bolt mains and were desired over the 2-bolt car variant when strength and performance are required.


Here's Opal's DTM car.

 

Man you can write an entire book discussing the benefits of the V6 but no way could you find any way to justify its superiority over an LS. Im all for against the grain but there's just simply defying logic. Man we could use your inputs over in the swap discussion thread. Not much piston representation there.

 

Who said it's superior over an LS? Time and time again I've stated it's just an engine that has good features going for it and it suited my needs. Find anything wrong with it you'd care to point out and discuss? or you just trolling as usual?

 

Ok! What information do you need? Isuzu Vehicross, engine 6VE1, MAF sensor has a serial number - 8251668461.