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P2259: secondary air injection system control b circuit low (that one is in there twice )
And my personal favorite
P0301: cylinder 1 misfire detected
Fun stuff
P0037 is the Rear O2 Sensor which monitors the Catalytic efficiency. Depending on whether you have catalytic converter or not depends on whether this really means anything
P0107 is very important. The car with fire then die if the Barometric meter is not plugged in (I've never heard of one failing but I guess its possible.) This Sensor is located by the Secondary Air Pump which people often mistake for something else and unplug it or remove it or cap the open end of the sensor. So check those things.
The car hasn't died on me once since I got it running again. It will also start hot, which I understand is a good thing.
I still can't figure out where this damned whistling noise is coming from. At this point I'm pretty sure it's not the fuel pump. That being said... I'm stumped
It sounds like it's coming from the fuel pump area, just before the rear tires.
Side note. The whistling doesn't change with the rpm. But if I were to try and roll my window down and it was already down** the tone of the whistling changes. And then takes a second to go back to what it normally sounds like after releasing the button.
Not sure if that helps but I figured it might be worth mentioning
Last edited by Jtrettin0616; 08-28-2021 at 10:12 PM.
Bummer
Well you’re going to need to inspect that noise and if it’s coming from that area that means the fuel pump.
it is possible that the new pump is faulty and/or perhaps you’ve kinked the hose during the install restricting the fuel.
if it changes with load demand then probably a fuel pump because they have a varying voltage input its not 12v and it will change tone .
the rest seems like you got the baro sensor unplugged/removed its connected to the air pump which is also coming up . If someone removed it they may have removed the sensor too. you will need this sensor to run properly. make sure there is a silver heat sink looking piece as well because the fuel pump resistor is also attached to that air pump
sounding like its missing
oh and clean/replace the spark plugs youve already flooded them... this is the main thing i would do if its misfiring but starting fine. you can swap coils around to see if the misfire bank changes on the code but you could have multiple bad coils. there is a way to test the coils with a multimeter and there is an inline spark tester that will show if its putting power thru the wire.. and worse case check the plug against the block for spark
The threads that hold the maf sensor are stripped, the sensor just popped right outIs there a way to rethread those holes? Or do I need a whole new box?
RB or AEM tend to sell around 200+ so if that's too steep, maybe Ebay will have just the stock MAF tube for you. Don't get a K&N or other intake cheap intake, they create more problems than they solve on these cars.
What about glueing the screws in place? If I need a new intake who gives ?
I guess I might damage the sensor trying to get it out for the next one...
The whining/ whistling noise is persistent. I've pulled out the pump and disconnected and reconnected it and made sure it was straight going in . There was no change. Is the new pump toast? It it doesn't feel like it's starving for fuel ...
the sensor is nowhere near the screws really they are just tabs on the side with holes.. even if you went all the way thru. some glue would work if you dont mind the mess as long as its sealed
the only way i know to verify for sure is run it out of the car in a separate tank or check your driving PSI with a gauge or OBD program. it should always be around 58-60psi
no you wont feel it but it could definitely be an issue. if there is a clog in the venturi line or anywhere it will still run on like 30 psi so best to get it checked if you are hearing it try to get another one to atleast compare or replace.
I both auto zone and O'Reilly's around here and no one knew what I was talking about.
So I bought one on Amazon that I thought would work ( I thought someone linked it in another Post) but it didn't work so I made made some modifications to it and I still couldn't get it.
So I rounded the head of a flat head and grabbed a hammer And carefully knocked it loose. New pump goes in a few hours.
I have a new pump that is starting to whine again. What the hell could I be doing to break it? No one ever accused me of being a genius, but I'm being careful and not forcing anything.
08-27-2021, 07:06 AM
