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Hey everyone! I've got a 2004 6spd with about 122,000km (74,500mi). First rotary and I have been loving it. A little while ago it turned on the CEL, I checked the code and it was saying a faulty o2 sensor. Being cheap and hopeful, I cleared the code and it didn't come back for a good while. Recently, I got a CEL and a code saying my cat was being inefficient. I took a mental note of it and started to look into new cats and my options. Then, a few days ago, it no longer wants to rev past 6k. I can't tell if there is a loss in power before 6k but it feels like it (though it may be psychological). I'm a broke film school student (I know, I shouldn't have got a rotary. I wanted to and I understand my stupidity) so ideally I would like to simple get a new cat, gut my cat, or get a midpipe cat delete. Which of these would provide the best compromise between price and usability?
I'd stop driving immediately. Your cat could be clogged and doing damage to the engine. This is usually caused by failing ignition and .. ignoring symptoms of failing ignition like CAT and O2 sensor codes.
Take the cat down, examine it, gut it if it's clogged. Replace ignition coils if older than 40,000km. You can look at new cat options after None of them are cheap, don't waste your money on cheap aftermarket ones, they will not survive. Do you need to pass emissions?
I'd stop driving immediately. Your cat could be clogged and doing damage to the engine. This is usually caused by failing ignition and .. ignoring symptoms of failing ignition like CAT and O2 sensor codes.
Take the cat down, examine it, gut it if it's clogged. Replace ignition coils if older than 40,000km. You can look at new cat options after None of them are cheap, don't waste your money on cheap aftermarket ones, they will not survive. Do you need to pass emissions?
Yeah I haven't driven it since. The guy I bought it from has just recently replaced the coils, of course he may have lied but he was a pretty open-book and up front. I won't be skimping on a cat, I guess I just wanted some form of context as to my situation. I do not need to pass emissions. Thanks for the response.
Yeah I haven't driven it since. The guy I bought it from has just recently replaced the coils, of course he may have lied but he was a pretty open-book and up front. I won't be skimping on a cat, I guess I just wanted some form of context as to my situation. I do not need to pass emissions. Thanks for the response.
If you're not opposed to running catless and still want to drive it, gut it until you decide on a fix.
I assume you got the P0420 code.
You will continue to get this code periodically with a gutted cat.
When you drop your cat, inspect it.
If the back half is still intact, you should be OK to drive it after you finish gutting it.
This is your cheapest option.
The next popular option is a midpipe, for peace of mind, a bit of extra performance, and sound quality.
I, and many others prefer the BHR resonated midpipe, about $500, if you're lucky you might find a used one for less.
Now, if it's completely empty, either it's already been gutted, which doesn't explain your power loss, or it broke up and your exhaust or muffler is clogged with broken strata, that will cause the loss of power.
If this is the case you'll have to drop the exhaust and try to shake out the pieces.
A good cat will run you at least $1k.
Then you have to be sure your ignition system is good, plugs, wires, and coils.
If you're not sure and can't afford to replace them, get a HEI tester, looks like a spark plug.
Do not run with a cat if you don't know your ignition health.
Misfires kill cats, bad cats kill engines.
I bought mine with an already bad cat at 18K miles and drove it for a while not knowing any better.
I replaced it and got about 7 years and 70k more miles before my engine finally died, which could be from the bad cat
You have a lot of miles already, and the bad cat may have already damaged your engine.
If I were you, and money is an issue, I'd gut the cat, make sure the exhaust isn't blocked, the ignition components are good, and get a rotary specific compression test, either from the dealer, or a member here with a tester may be able to help you out.
Good luck!
*EDIT
Do not sink any money into your 8 until you get a comp test.
You may be able to drive it for years, or only months, then you'll need another engine, used, rebuilt, or reman, it won't be cheap.
If it starts OK when hot, you may have some time, if it takes longer to start hot, then you won't have too long before it won't run at all.
They will run with a bad engine, until one day they won't.
Gut the cat and sell the car. If you are broke this is probably one of the worst cars to own. Gas milage sucks, requires extra oil changes and parts are expensive. Sell this and get like a Honda Fit.
Gut the cat and sell the car. If you are broke this is probably one of the worst cars to own. Gas milage sucks, requires extra oil changes and parts are expensive. Sell this and get like a Honda Fit.
He seems to understand this if I understand his original post.
While what you say is true, it's also a pretty easy car to work on if one doesn't mind or enjoys working on cars.
If you don't, or can't work on them yourself, then yeah, another car would be a better decision.
He seems to understand this if I understand his original post.
While what you say is true, it's also a pretty easy car to work on if one doesn't mind or enjoys working on cars.
If you don't, or can't, work on them yourself, then yeah, another car would be a better decision.
I agree with the ease of this car to work on yourself. The problem is the cost of the parts. Even just spark plugs are $100. It requires extra money to keep this car on the road over a normal car. Thats unfortunately a fact, even if you can DIY. For me, the car is worth the extra money so thats why ill keep driving it.
I agree with the ease of this car to work on yourself. The problem is the cost of the parts. Even just spark plugs are $100. It requires extra money to keep this car on the road over a normal car. Thats unfortunately a fact, even if you can DIY. For me, the car is worth the extra money so thats why ill keep driving it.
$100 for all 4 isn't expensive, given you should get several years of normal driving out of them. Same thing for coils, $35 ea. for decent ones, and stock wires are cheap.
If you're paying $100 each, that's a lot.
I've done several sets of stock, an old style BHR kit, and a SakeBomb kit on my laid up LY, currently stock on my WB.
$100 for all 4 isn't expensive, given you should get several years of normal driving out of them. Same thing for coils, $35 ea. for decent ones, and stock wires are cheap.
If you're paying $100 each, that's a lot.
I've done several sets of stock, an old style BHR kit, and a SakeBomb kit on my laid up LY, currently stock on my WB.
$100 for 4 spark plugs. My other car they are $9 each. Ignition coils purchased for $35 each is a bit low. Not sure how you got good coils for that. Rev C Mazda coils were purchased for $300 for all 4. Wires are cheap though Ill grant you that. But thats just the ignition system and was just using it for an example. Parts are very expensive for this car comparatively to most other regular cars.
Yeah I haven't driven it since. The guy I bought it from has just recently replaced the coils, of course he may have lied but he was a pretty open-book and up front. I won't be skimping on a cat, I guess I just wanted some form of context as to my situation. I do not need to pass emissions. Thanks for the response.
I read on your profile you're in California?
If so, I'm pretty sure you do need to pass emissions, and they're pretty tough on it.
If this is the case, you need to think a little harder on your decision.
$100 for 4 spark plugs. My other car they are $9 each. Ignition coils purchased for $35 each is a bit low. Not sure how you got good coils for that. Rev C Mazda coils were purchased for $300 for all 4. Wires are cheap though Ill grant you that. But thats just the ignition system and was just using it for an example. Parts are very expensive for this car comparatively to most other regular cars.
Here we can get lifetime warranty coils from Advance Auto parts for $35.
If you save the receipt, you never pay for another coil.
(pardon the bump, I'm a forum newbie and don't know the etiquette quite yet)
Just wanted to update everyone and tell them I ended up taking it to a rotary specialist shop (very reputable), the installed a resonated midpipe and fixed my clutch pedal bracket. Wow. The difference is amazing. Beyond happy. Thanks to everyone for their input!
10-13-2020, 03:59 PM
