I have reviewed rotary heads engine diagnostics fuse pages but do not see the odb port listed anywhere is it called something else ?

 

there is no fuse for OBD port.. its a series of can communication lines connected to different modules in the car (PCM,TCM,ABS, ETC)

 

the 12V power supply line is fed from the 15A room fuse in LH footwell fuse box, from the 30A BTN fuse and 120A main fuse in the engine bay fuse box





this is from the same source; it’s near the very end, but in general it has flaws and you really need to find and buy. the Mazda electrical manual for your model year RX8.
.

 

Thats amazing thank you very much !

 

Ok I got power back.
when replacing the 120amp fuse I had the fun problem of the rear nut falling out.
I drilled out the bottom aluminum piece to give acces to correct the nut in doing so the top post also came free and when reconnecting everything that top post was not making great contact.

So now I have all power back including odb port however it will not connect to my scanner that previously worked.

I also have the flashing key light , so back to more reading

On a side note FU mazda for putting this aluminum piece in the way you didnt do it on the other side ??? Why on that side jerks ..

 

Flashing immobilizer light is steady doesnt seem to have any pattern just fast constant flashing am I crazy or is that not one of the listed codes ?
[size=16px]Immobilizer System (DTC Inspection)[/size]

1. Turn the ignition switch to the ‘ON’ position
2. Verify the security light state.
   1. If there are any malfunctions:
      • After any malfunction is detected, the security light will function as follows for approximately 1 min.
        DTC 16 and lower: Flashes
        DTC21 and higher: Illuminates
   2. If there are no malfunctions:
      • The security light illuminates for approximately 3 seconds and goes out.
3. When any malfunction has been detected, read DTCs via flashing patterns displayed after the security light flashes or illuminates for approximately 1 minute.
   1. A verified DTC is flashed 10 times repeatedly by the security light.
   2. If multiple DTCs are verified, the security light displays only the smallest DTC.

[size=16px]DTC Table (Immobilizer System)[/size]
[size=16px]Security light flash pattern:[/size]
[size=16px]∩__∩_________ = No detected communication with the coil[/size]
[size=16px]∩__∩∩________ = Coil malfunction[/size]
[size=16px]∩__∩∩∩_______ = The key ID number data cannot be read or key ID registration error[/size]
[size=16px]∩__∩∩∩∩______ = The keyless control module cannot read key ID number data normally[/size]
[size=16px]∩__∩∩∩∩∩_____ = The keyless control module has detected unregistered key ID number[/size]
[size=16px]∩__∩∩∩∩∩∩____ = Communication error between the keyless control module and the PCM (no response or mismatched conditions)[/size]
[size=16px]∩∩__∩_________= Only one key ID number is registered[/size]
[size=16px]∩∩__∩∩_______ = Communication error between the keyless control module and the PCM (data transfer error)[/size]
[size=16px]∩∩__∩∩∩______ = ID number data in the PCM and the keyless control module do not match.[/size]
[size=16px]NOT ILLUMINATED = Keyless control module malfunction[/size]

 

Ok so it eventuallly settles into a 1f break 6flash
so looks like communication error between key and pcm ,.more reading ....

 

Hard to imagine I have totally screwed my pcm or ecu but I still cannot communicate with my scanner that worked before I replaced coils and wires and started my journey down the road of electrical faults.

Ultimately I want to remove the engine as soon as possible to be brought for a rebuild but would prefer to have this sorted before hand I really dont want to get my engine back and still have this issue.

Only reason I did the coils and plugs; I was waiting for a compresson tester to arrive now its here.and I just want some numbers before I pull the engine but stuck with immobilizer code 1 x 6

 

Welcome to the club

 

Worth me

ntioning this is my only key I have no fob.
i did previously start the car with it but then swapped some parts could that have triggered a need to authenticate the fob keyless module pcm chain , thoughts ?

 

i drive my car on just that key and no fob so if it worked before it should work still unless you changed the PCM or keyless modules behind the passenger kick panel. Make sure there is still a chip in the plastic section and its not empty (maybe you didnt realize you had a spare blank and grabbed it instead)

 

Just bought the car this is all is came with 1 piece of a key never had a fob it started with this key before i replaced a few parts

 

right so what im saying is unless those "few parts" where a PCM or keyless module , it should still work fine its gotta just be clearing of the code or could have lost its program if dead for a long time . I think there is a way to check if there are stored codes in the system or something

 

a bad keyless module would show a different code and i think also if it lost the stored code would flash a different code, losing communication is usually just because it was unplugged or the wire was shorted or like a too low voltage can do it i think.

 

Parts changed were , coilpacks , ign wires , and clutch master cylinder

 

then your key should still work. may have to get a locksmith

 

I really wanted to sort this issue out before taking engine out, but not waiting. I will deal with this later tow it to the dealer if I have to. Just going to suck to get a rebuilt engine back in and not be able to run it right away