patriotjj

i just got done checking for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner. When i sprayed the lines under the air intake, the idle stumbled and made a noticable difference. All the lines were connected and everything though. Just wondering if a semi rough idle at stop lights, and when switching gears while brake is being held and also slowish starts from COLD and HOT - 2 seconds, would be symptoms of a vacuum leak? Might take it to this shop to get it for sure diagnosed with smoke test for 60 bucks to make sure, just want some extra thoughts.

patriotjj

Okay so today i took it to autozone to have the battery/starter/alternator checked, and all checked out fine, but if i listened closely i heard a little whistling noise, i also have code p0411 for secondary air injection. Just wondering if a vacuum leak could seriously cause long starts? Compression test within two weeks though

04Green

iTrader: (1)

Check the ribbed rubber tube for leaks. Pull it off and flex it. They can split, and leak.

niteshade247

I don't know about starting but 2secs is good. Bad idle and when stepping on the brake would suggest a vac leak. There is one vac line under the UIM that you really can see or get to unless you remove the UMI. Removing the UMI is really easy I've done it 2 or 3 times now it's not complicated the hardest part is the two bolts close to the fire wall.

patriotjj

Thanks a lot for the responses guys. Im committed to going ahead and getting the compression test for tomorrow just cause im curious for the numbers. . The starts are annoying as i think the hot start is a tad bit longer then cold also, with the other issues. If it passes compression test... Next on list is doing what yall said. Ive done got new coils/wires/plugs, as well as a new battery 1k miles ago. And cleaned MAF.. So its either compression causing this perhaps or the leaks is all im left with.

04Green

iTrader: (1)

I totally missed the stumble with brake on part.

Check the booster on the master cylinder too. They will leak.