quick question..rx feel down on power til 6000rpm,then shoots of from there,like turbo lag..somtimes when I then let of the gas it pulls better..and it eats my petrol when I go past than stuter point..and not normal eating..this thing is thirsty ,plugs ,coils wires are fine..

 

Any codes? And how do you know the plugs, coils, and wires are fine? Did you test them?

 

New plugs , wires and coils...yes got an cel...but no diagnostic machine , it broke..waiting for new one..last time it said some valve..aircontrol or ssv I think..

 

If you are remembering the code correctly, it points to the SSV sticking in place either from gunk, a failing solenoid, or actuator.

The first post in this thread should give you all the information that you need to diagnose the issue.

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...-video-184663/

 

If i recall correctly, the Secondary Shutter Valve becomes active at 6000 RPM, so if your code is for your SSV it could be gummed up with carbon.....it could also be the actuator failing to open/close it properly.....

Personally, I had an issue with a failing solenoid for my SSV, you can always try swapping the air solenoid or VDI solenoid with the SSV solenoid to determine if its a solenoid or not....

 

SSV is lower, 3,750. APV is the ~6k one.

From the Mazda technical PDF

 

My bad, VDI or maybe even an APV.

 

cheers,
thanks RIWWP!

 

p2008 intake manifold runner control circuit/open p0410 secondry air injection only codes but no clue what they mean by those tech words..

 

P0410 means you have to change your airpump and also check the airpump fuse. You might need a new one. There are a lot of people selling airpumps here on forum. I got one for $40 like 2 weeks ago. So before you go buy it from a dealer, check on a forum if anyone is selling theirs. The other code I don't know. Didn't have to deal woth that one yet

 

I saw an interesting can at Autozone.

It was seafoam, in a spray, with a nozzle that was designed to slip in between the MAF and the throttle body. The goal is to spray while the engine is running at various RPM. I really wonder what it would do if you sprayed it at the various RPM that the various systems open? Kind of like a full intake purge. I would probably load up the pre-mix before hand, but might be nice to get all the actuators.

 

04Green, this intrigues me.....I was planning on doing a seafoam cleaning when spring and the warmer weather arrives, its - 20 here in Ontario right now so id figure id wait till it warmed up....I have read the seafoam threads but did not see anything about this spray....so I apologize if its been covered elsewhere.


My questions being:
1) has anyone on here tried this method? (results) does it work?


2) Would there be any reasons not to give er a try?? (would it cause any problems?)


3) Will this seafoam product work with a CAI? (the nozzle in particular)


4) im assuming doing all three methods would probably work best no? gas tank, engine ingestion and apparently this intake seafoam? and will it hit the ssv and vdi valves?




Sorry about all the questions and to jack the thread, and I also apologize if you don't know to much about this product, im just really curious....I haven't heard of this before until now and will look into it, and see if I can find it here in Ontario..


cheers,
Big Fella

 

I'm just gonne block off the airpump since I have no cat

 

stutter is gone but now my top rpm range is weak...can feel there a struggle...so changing all my selenoids....any one no of an good aftermarket one?

 

selenoids??

 

A bit late responding but figured might as well...

I'm the only one to actually test any decarb methods and also then post the before/after results on the forum. Other people may have tested it, but if so they don't talk about it or talk about it elsewhere.

And no, I didn't test that method.

However I suspect that it would do nothing until the combustion chamber, where it would have a similar result to what you would get just dumping a can of seafoam in the gas tank. Super cold AND pressurized seafoam in a spray can strip carbon, but it warms up to ambient really quickly and by the time it gets anywhere near the intake valving I bet it would be ambient temp and obviously no longer pressurized. At that point it is just atomized (maybe) seafoam coating the surfaces.

Which you can test yourself that it does nothing. Next time you change your plugs, grab a can of seafoam and pour some into a glass jar, then drop the plugs in. Check back in a week and see how much carbon has been removed from just sitting in the stuff. (Hint: Virtually nothing)

Seafoam DOES strip carbon, but you need an extreme temperature differential and/or pressure. Super cold from an aersol can works, and under the pressure/temp of combustion works. Sitting there.... nada.

 

bit off topic don't we thnk