Slow Shifting AT RX8 2007 6 speed GT
05-08-2017, 08:50 PM
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Slow Shifting AT RX8 2007 6 speed GT
I have been experiencing slow shifting up after hard acceleration. On easygoing acceleration up shifts are normal and quick where as up shift is slow between gears 3-6. Does anyone know what this might be? And how I can troubleshoot this? Or fix the issue? And before anyone says anything yes I know automatic so bad but whatever I wanted a RX8 and that's the only version they had within a 150 mile radius.
05-09-2017, 08:59 PM
#2
You lucky guy, I'm not a auto hater cause I got the same 6 speed auto 07 GT.
I was wanting auto in case wife would drive. Turned out she was scared to bend "my car".
So I enjoyed it, but 2 weeks into ownership it wouldn't pull just rev from stop, so I babied it home, and it never did it again.
At dealer they drained about a quart of fluid, and let me have it.
It seemed fine, and I took it to the track several times, but I must have got it hot and it cratered.
After a new install everything is back to normal, so I put a 18,800 btu tube and fin cooler on it, and it lowers total engine temp along with taking 14 deg out of trans.
I also have a scan guage II so I got the trans codes from a Mazda 6 or whatever net site.
Anyhow, back to you; you know the trans has a condition that HOLDS THE GEAR YOU ARE IN like if you go around a corner fast, and don't need to shift up yet, and let off, it holds that gear for a few seconds to see if you get back on gas.
That's one reason I used to hate autos, but this one doesn't need to be shifted manually cause the engine load is smarter than any hand coordination.
Now if you have a trans that is 1 quart low of fluid, it can show up as not shifting like when normally trying to get on hwy not at full throttle.
I think you might just be noticing the feature of trans not a bug of shifting problem.
I think something was wrong with the torque converter when new, and wouldn't hold the fluid, so it looked over filled when it was a leaky converter.
So get a scanguage for temps, and cooler, and you'll be better than ever. The trans should never get over 249f or it goes into limp mode. Now engine or trans never get over 220f under any condition. I can drive 100 mph on 100 degf day with AC on, and it runs 193 dge f on both, almost too cool.
I was wanting auto in case wife would drive. Turned out she was scared to bend "my car".
So I enjoyed it, but 2 weeks into ownership it wouldn't pull just rev from stop, so I babied it home, and it never did it again.
At dealer they drained about a quart of fluid, and let me have it.
It seemed fine, and I took it to the track several times, but I must have got it hot and it cratered.
After a new install everything is back to normal, so I put a 18,800 btu tube and fin cooler on it, and it lowers total engine temp along with taking 14 deg out of trans.
I also have a scan guage II so I got the trans codes from a Mazda 6 or whatever net site.
Anyhow, back to you; you know the trans has a condition that HOLDS THE GEAR YOU ARE IN like if you go around a corner fast, and don't need to shift up yet, and let off, it holds that gear for a few seconds to see if you get back on gas.
That's one reason I used to hate autos, but this one doesn't need to be shifted manually cause the engine load is smarter than any hand coordination.
Now if you have a trans that is 1 quart low of fluid, it can show up as not shifting like when normally trying to get on hwy not at full throttle.
I think you might just be noticing the feature of trans not a bug of shifting problem.
I think something was wrong with the torque converter when new, and wouldn't hold the fluid, so it looked over filled when it was a leaky converter.
So get a scanguage for temps, and cooler, and you'll be better than ever. The trans should never get over 249f or it goes into limp mode. Now engine or trans never get over 220f under any condition. I can drive 100 mph on 100 degf day with AC on, and it runs 193 dge f on both, almost too cool.
05-09-2017, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 40w8
You lucky guy, I'm not a auto hater cause I got the same 6 speed auto 07 GT.
I was wanting auto in case wife would drive. Turned out she was scared to bend "my car".
So I enjoyed it, but 2 weeks into ownership it wouldn't pull just rev from stop, so I babied it home, and it never did it again.
At dealer they drained about a quart of fluid, and let me have it.
It seemed fine, and I took it to the track several times, but I must have got it hot and it cratered.
After a new install everything is back to normal, so I put a 18,800 btu tube and fin cooler on it, and it lowers total engine temp along with taking 14 deg out of trans.
I also have a scan guage II so I got the trans codes from a Mazda 6 or whatever net site.
Anyhow, back to you; you know the trans has a condition that HOLDS THE GEAR YOU ARE IN like if you go around a corner fast, and don't need to shift up yet, and let off, it holds that gear for a few seconds to see if you get back on gas.
That's one reason I used to hate autos, but this one doesn't need to be shifted manually cause the engine load is smarter than any hand coordination.
Now if you have a trans that is 1 quart low of fluid, it can show up as not shifting like when normally trying to get on hwy not at full throttle.
I think you might just be noticing the feature of trans not a bug of shifting problem.
I think something was wrong with the torque converter when new, and wouldn't hold the fluid, so it looked over filled when it was a leaky converter.
So get a scanguage for temps, and cooler, and you'll be better than ever. The trans should never get over 249f or it goes into limp mode. Now engine or trans never get over 220f under any condition. I can drive 100 mph on 100 degf day with AC on, and it runs 193 dge f on both, almost too cool.
I was wanting auto in case wife would drive. Turned out she was scared to bend "my car".
So I enjoyed it, but 2 weeks into ownership it wouldn't pull just rev from stop, so I babied it home, and it never did it again.
At dealer they drained about a quart of fluid, and let me have it.
It seemed fine, and I took it to the track several times, but I must have got it hot and it cratered.
After a new install everything is back to normal, so I put a 18,800 btu tube and fin cooler on it, and it lowers total engine temp along with taking 14 deg out of trans.
I also have a scan guage II so I got the trans codes from a Mazda 6 or whatever net site.
Anyhow, back to you; you know the trans has a condition that HOLDS THE GEAR YOU ARE IN like if you go around a corner fast, and don't need to shift up yet, and let off, it holds that gear for a few seconds to see if you get back on gas.
That's one reason I used to hate autos, but this one doesn't need to be shifted manually cause the engine load is smarter than any hand coordination.
Now if you have a trans that is 1 quart low of fluid, it can show up as not shifting like when normally trying to get on hwy not at full throttle.
I think you might just be noticing the feature of trans not a bug of shifting problem.
I think something was wrong with the torque converter when new, and wouldn't hold the fluid, so it looked over filled when it was a leaky converter.
So get a scanguage for temps, and cooler, and you'll be better than ever. The trans should never get over 249f or it goes into limp mode. Now engine or trans never get over 220f under any condition. I can drive 100 mph on 100 degf day with AC on, and it runs 193 dge f on both, almost too cool.
05-10-2017, 10:10 AM
#4
I'd say then, that you do need to change the fluid, and may sure it's full.
It's a aisen trans with Toyota fluid that I paid $7/quart for on Amazon.
You've got to open a cap from below, and let excess spill out until level.
It's a aisen trans with Toyota fluid that I paid $7/quart for on Amazon.
You've got to open a cap from below, and let excess spill out until level.
05-10-2017, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by 40w8
I'd say then, that you do need to change the fluid, and may sure it's full.
It's a aisen trans with Toyota fluid that I paid $7/quart for on Amazon.
You've got to open a cap from below, and let excess spill out until level.
It's a aisen trans with Toyota fluid that I paid $7/quart for on Amazon.
You've got to open a cap from below, and let excess spill out until level.
05-10-2017, 11:09 AM
#6
There's a pdf instructions on how Mazda cleans lines along with drain which is why they charge so much, but I saw The Lubricant store that sells Mobil JWS 3309 for about $65/12 quarts which is about how many you need. Spec is also Toyota T-IV.
I'd probably drop pan change filter, and then refill, unless there is lots of trash and then, go back to line clean.
I have about 6 or 8 neodymium very strong magnets on bottom outside just incase.
Theres some magnet inside that can be cleaned.
I'd probably drop pan change filter, and then refill, unless there is lots of trash and then, go back to line clean.
I have about 6 or 8 neodymium very strong magnets on bottom outside just incase.
Theres some magnet inside that can be cleaned.
05-10-2017, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 40w8
There's a pdf instructions on how Mazda cleans lines along with drain which is why they charge so much, but I saw The Lubricant store that sells Mobil JWS 3309 for about $65/12 quarts which is about how many you need. Spec is also Toyota T-IV.
I'd probably drop pan change filter, and then refill, unless there is lots of trash and then, go back to line clean.
I have about 6 or 8 neodymium very strong magnets on bottom outside just incase.
Theres some magnet inside that can be cleaned.
I'd probably drop pan change filter, and then refill, unless there is lots of trash and then, go back to line clean.
I have about 6 or 8 neodymium very strong magnets on bottom outside just incase.
Theres some magnet inside that can be cleaned.
05-10-2017, 04:24 PM
#8
Smoking turbo yay
For an AT, the first thing to check is the fluid level and colour. Most AT fluids should be a pinkish red colour. If it's brown, change. If it's burnt black, well, then you are too late.
Check your Owner's Manual on how to check your fluid level. Seems like every car is a bit different.
With my AT Accord, it would have a slight shudder if the fluid is old when you go from N to D. Changing the fluid solves that.
Anything other than the fluid will be relatively expensive to fix. If your fluid is good, then it could be pressure switches and other things.
Check your Owner's Manual on how to check your fluid level. Seems like every car is a bit different.
With my AT Accord, it would have a slight shudder if the fluid is old when you go from N to D. Changing the fluid solves that.
Anything other than the fluid will be relatively expensive to fix. If your fluid is good, then it could be pressure switches and other things.
05-10-2017, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by UnknownJinX
For an AT, the first thing to check is the fluid level and colour. Most AT fluids should be a pinkish red colour. If it's brown, change. If it's burnt black, well, then you are too late.
Check your Owner's Manual on how to check your fluid level. Seems like every car is a bit different.
With my AT Accord, it would have a slight shudder if the fluid is old when you go from N to D. Changing the fluid solves that.
Anything other than the fluid will be relatively expensive to fix. If your fluid is good, then it could be pressure switches and other things.
Check your Owner's Manual on how to check your fluid level. Seems like every car is a bit different.
With my AT Accord, it would have a slight shudder if the fluid is old when you go from N to D. Changing the fluid solves that.
Anything other than the fluid will be relatively expensive to fix. If your fluid is good, then it could be pressure switches and other things.
05-12-2017, 01:09 PM
#10
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Originally Posted by 40w8
After a new install everything is back to normal, so I put a 18,800 btu tube and fin cooler on it, and it lowers total engine temp along with taking 14 deg out of trans.
I also have a scan guage II so I got the trans codes from a Mazda 6 or whatever net site.
I also have a scan guage II so I got the trans codes from a Mazda 6 or whatever net site.
05-13-2017, 08:43 PM
#11
Yeah, car has to know to go to limp mode if over heating which is said to be 249 deg f.
I just Googled Mazda auto trans pid codes, and got Linear Logic scangauge ii maker codes.
They fool around with codes that MIGHT work and have 5 listed.
I'd tell you mine, but they are on a slip of paper in dash.
Right after I put in the codes, I'd drive easily through town at 40 mph, and trans would be over 203 deg f.
I can drive hard and barely get it there now, and on less than 80 deg day, I can see coolant and auto trans temp go back below 180 deg f.
I just Googled Mazda auto trans pid codes, and got Linear Logic scangauge ii maker codes.
They fool around with codes that MIGHT work and have 5 listed.
I'd tell you mine, but they are on a slip of paper in dash.
Right after I put in the codes, I'd drive easily through town at 40 mph, and trans would be over 203 deg f.
I can drive hard and barely get it there now, and on less than 80 deg day, I can see coolant and auto trans temp go back below 180 deg f.