Cryo7c1

I emailed Scott at RX8Performance asking how these go in with all of these washers. The mounts come with no instructions.


There are multiple washers and spacers.

He makes it sound like the large spacer goes on *after* you put the mounts in, and then the smaller washer goes down on that huge spacer.

This is the email he sent me:

"The large flat washer goes on the poly bushing then the motor bracket sits down on that then the thick spacer is used for the passenger-side and then the small washer goes on top of the small spacer so as not to damage it. On a 2006 or later car you don't use the thick spacer but assembly is the same for the driver side.... large washer, motor bracket small washer Nylok"

He said the large spacer isn't used on the drivers side for 2009+ models, only on the passenger side.

Any info from someone who has these mounts would be great.

I wanted to ask because it doesn't make sense for the thick spacer to go on after the mount goes in, it should be placed on top of the large washer that is resting on the poly bushing, right?

Thanks!

Cryo7c1

Okay, so I got them in. Not really happy with the design of these mounts at all. The center bolt just spins when you try and tighten the nyloc nut.

I'm going to try and tighten the body bolts/nuts first and re-visit that center nyloc nut.

These mounts are dangerous to install with that center bolt design. You have to put your finger under there to push the bolt up into the engine bracket so you can hand tighten the nyloc. If you don't, the entire mount won't stay in position while you lower the engine back onto the mounts.

Cryo7c1

Only the passenger side nyloc nut would tighten. Since his mount design includes a spinning bolt (yeah... great design), the nyloc nut wont grab and tighten on the drivers side mount.

I have no idea how to get this nyloc nut to fasten down on this badly designed spinning center bolt.

It would have been awesome if these mounts came with some instructions.

ZiG

ooooook fine I'll step in here. Have race roots mounts, same design iirc. After you have that top nut sort of tightened, lift the engine up again (bottom nut/bolt off) and get in there with a spanner to hold the bolt tight. Torque it down then let the engine back down and secure the mounts to the subframe.

Alternatively, I found that a 1"x1/8" piece of flat steel could fit in the gap between the mount and the subframe. If you jam it in there and hold it just right, you can use it to hold the bolt head still.

Cryo7c1

Yeah... I was going to try and find something flat to jam in there to keep the bolt from spinning. I've noticed there is a tiny opening and you can see the head of the bolt.

The other thought I had was to dab some thread locker on the head of the bolt down there, anything just to keep it from spinning long enough so the thing will grab.

ZiG

Eh, doubt that would hold much torque. They really should have some way to capture the head but still let it move up and down a bit. Like a square head and two bars or something. I agree it's a PITA to install but I can't really think of a better design. And I don't feel like drilling a hole in the subframe to get a socket in.

Cryo7c1

The base plate could easily have a notch in it, the same shape as the head of the bolt, so you can pull up and it stays into place. The bolt can easily drop back down and be free spinning once the nut is loosened up enough. It's a bad design as it is.

I'm going to have to find some kind of powerful epoxy that can bond steel to steel, like Supreme 11HT.

Edit: The head of the bolt would obviously have to not be round like it is in his current design. -_-

Cryo7c1

I'm going to have to order J-B Weld 8280 and just bond that bitch at a molecular level. It creates a bond with a tensile strength of 3,960 PSI. I can't see any other way to resolve this. The head of the bolt is round, so it's hard to press anything against it to keep it still.

Cryo7c1

Well, all nuts/bolts are at 100% torque spec other than the drivers side center bolt. I had to remove all nuts/bolts, jack it back up, and grab the unless spinning center bolt to tighten it the best I could. The nylon nut is down on the bolt, but it's not 100%. It's almost at the point where it will grab, but the bolt just spins even though it feels like it should grab.

I'm going to order an impact gun and hit the bitch with 300 lbs of torque and see if that grabs it.

These mounts have some of the worst engineering I've ever seen. The OEM mounts don't have some loose center bolt. The bolts screw directly into each mount on the OEM. So what was the idea, fix one problem and introduce another?

I hope Scott reads this. If not let this thread stand so that others may be warned.

acroy

Exact same thing here; I have the Race Roots. A bit of a PITA until you figure it out.
- large washer goes on top; the engine bracket rests on it
- Exactly what Zig said: once loosely assembled, lift the engine up again, and get an open-end wrench in there to hold the bolt tight

It works fine. Good luck.

RX-Tuner

Hi Cody,

With the engine mounts loosely assembled and the engine suspended use a 1/4 inch allen wrench to hold the "spinning bolt" still and tighten the nut down until it stops. Lower the engine and install the OE bolt and nut from the original mounts to finish the install.


As I mentioned in my email if I can be of assistance feel free to give me a call at the shop and I will be glad to help, thanks, Scott

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

You have obviously never seen an Allen wrench The Round head that you are trying to hold has a hex head in the end of it.

Maybe before you report issues with installs you will actually ask questions.......there are quite a few of us that have a bit of experience on here

Cryo7c1

I have actually. I've attempted to use a hex wrench to keep the bolt from spinning and it refuses to stop.

This is not an install issue. It's a bad design. There's a reason why the BHR and OEM mounts have no such shoulder bolt with a hex.

I've tried that, and I've spent 10+ hours total trying to get the bolt to stop spinning. The nut went down on it straight, so it's not like it's off the threads. It went down smooth until the nylon started to engage. Once that happened that was it. I've locked a hex wrench into the bolt and tried to use a breaker bar to force it down and it refused.

I'm going to sell these mounts and I have BHR mounts on order. I'm sure other people like the spinning bolt, but I don't. I want them to be similar to OEM but of higher quality so they last longer. The BHR mounts are very similar to OEM in design. The bushings are superior. So I will just pay the extra and chalk this up to a learning experience.

The funny thing is, if I did use the larger spacer on the drivers side mount, it would have caused the nyloc nut to engage sooner and this wouldn't have been an issue. However, per your instructions, I only used the larger spacer on the passengers side mount. The passengers side mount installed easily in 5 minutes.