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Rx8 in life after 5 years of sleep and the problems come...
Hello
I have buy rx8 cosmo who is siting over 5 years and the previous owner didn't turn it on all this time.
So I take out the engine I send the car for repaint and I replace water pump ,thermostat ,ignition coils with c version ,new original spark plugs, new spark plug wires ngk , I reseal the oil pan I clean the injectors in special shop , they inform me that injectors are fine after cleaning, I replace the 3 vacuum solenoids with new and check valves , I inspect with mytivac the other metal solenoids and is ok.
I clean very very well the intake system and actuators.
I take a compression tester and the engine is in spec about 118 psi front rear rotor and each chamber is the same ,that is very good.
So yesterday I try to start the car after all this year.
the engine get starter in second, faster from my fd ,I have no cell code errors but for some reason the engine tremble.
For example if it is in idle and you are sitting in the car you feel intensively the tremble
It revs I can say well.I didn't drive it because I am afraid to not make any damage to engine.
The engine mounts are brand new and original.
What I do so far to found the problem.
I check if I have ignition on each spark and I have
I disconnect barometric sensor while engine running and the engine change to worse at idle so I suppose that sensor work
I make the same for mass air flow sensor and looks that work too.
I am sure that I have connect correct the injectors because I found the plugs from wiring electric schematic.
I suppose that I have make nvram reset ,because it is 2004 model probably the oil pressure needle didn't move when you make nvram reset.
Also the connector from rear oxygen sensor is broken and I replace it with new one.
What I have not do is to drain the old gas and only add 15 litres of new 100 octane gas, but the instrument is in empty position before I add new gas
Any help will be appreciate because in 7 days I have to go the car for technical check and take new plates.
The first video it looks like it's on failed engine mounts. You say they are new and OEM but I don't see any reason else why it would vibrate like that. Were your bearings replaced in the rebuild? Is the crank pulley wobbling?
Last edited by CaymanRotary; 02-14-2021 at 08:38 AM.
I have not replace any bearing in engine only pilot bearing and clutch bearing.
If we speak for example for piston engine is like to work 3 of 4 pistons
You have the check engine light and the oil light lit. Steady oil light should be the level, not pressure, but still... that's not great. Can you read the OBD code for the check engine? If it shows no codes, it's an OMP problem, not every reader can read that Mazda-specific code.
Are you sure the ignition wires are connecting the right coil to the right plug? They're easy to mix up. Also since you had the engine out, make sure your powerplant frame is well aligned.
I am sure for ignition wires I have double double check it and also I measure it with multimeter.
The mounts is new I take it off original Mazda package.
First time I take error code p0335 ,and p0172 then I delete codes and never appear again.
Also if I disconnect Leading and trailing from rear rotor so rear rotor have no ignition at all the vibration is the same the same and if I disconnect front ignition and keep only rear rotor working is exactly the same no difference.
Also I try with only trailings and no leading and vice versa the same problem.
So you believe that the engine run well and the problem is on mounts?
It is possible to be the mixed oil gas with new?
or injector problem?
For the engine mounts, you'll need to take them off and inspect the rubber material on the bottom. If its squishy, the mount is bad. The rubber should feel firm.
I will tomorrow drain all the gas refill with new and also put some cleaner in also I will clean and mass air flow sensor and try again.
I leave for the end the injectors because need a lot of work.
Is it possible this problem become from bad oxygen sensor?
It's not the oxygen sensor. Is the idle smooth? Is the engine holding steady rpm? Does it respond to throttle input like normal?
It sounds to me like the engine is working OK but it's not properly connected to the car. So either the engine mounts or the power plant frame or the differential mounts are poorly secured or not aligned.
I don't think it's the injectors or sensors, those would cause the car to run poorly but not physically shake. And you already tried narrowing the problem to an individual rotor without any change.
It's not the oxygen sensor. Is the idle smooth? Is the engine holding steady rpm? Does it respond to throttle input like normal?
It sounds to me like the engine is working OK but it's not properly connected to the car. So either the engine mounts or the power plant frame or the differential mounts are poorly secured or not aligned.
I don't think it's the injectors or sensors, those would cause the car to run poorly but not physically shake. And you already tried narrowing the problem to an individual rotor without any change.
Are you using the original flywheel?
I have take out the engine from the hood so i dont take out power plan frame or transmission.
The engine hold idle and as you can see in video rev normall, i dont know actually how rx8 rev but looks ok.
The car have original exedy clutch and in good shape.
I have take out the clutch and when i put it back i alignment with tool.
Some minor update.
i drain all the old gas i refill it with new and add injector cleaner just in case.
I clean well the maf with spray cleaner.
Doesn't change anything.
The engine looks to work fine it turn on in seconds even with 90c water temp the same with complete cold -3c.
No noise come from engine.
I believe that maybe i have make a mistake,i dont think but maybe , with engine mounts i put left to write and right to left.
Or i have engine harness issues from ecu to injectors..
I don't know i i have no idea any more.
Some minor update.
i drain all the old gas i refill it with new and add injector cleaner just in case.
I clean well the maf with spray cleaner.
Doesn't change anything.
The engine looks to work fine it turn on in seconds even with 90c water temp the same with complete cold -3c.
No noise come from engine.
I believe that maybe i have make a mistake,i dont think but maybe , with engine mounts i put left to write and right to left.
Or i have engine harness issues from ecu to injectors..
I don't know i i have no idea any more.
I still think it's the engine mounts. That first video you linked looks like they are bad. Take one out and inspect the rubber material on the bottom. It should be firm and not squishy.
I still think it's the engine mounts. That first video you linked looks like they are bad. Take one out and inspect the rubber material on the bottom. It should be firm and not squishy.
Yes finally i do this.
I personal open the mazda bag with mazda code from engine mounts.
But you never know maybe is original only the bag and the mounts are copy.
I have read somewhere that on first rx8 production mazda have a recall for engine bracket who hold the engine mount but i am not sure
Last edited by petros_rx7; 02-16-2021 at 04:05 PM.
Yes finally i do this.
I personal open the mazda bag with mazda code from engine mounts.
But you never know maybe is original only the bag and the mounts are copy.
I have read somee that on first rx8 production mazda have a recall for engine bracket who hold the engine mount but i am not sure
The only way to know is to take it off the car and inspect. It’s very easy to take it off. Reason I think it’s that is because it appears to be secured properly to the mount but it is wobbling really bad on the base.
The only way to know is to take it off the car and inspect. It’s very easy to take it off. Reason I think it’s that is because it appears to be secured properly to the mount but it is wobbling really bad on the base.
If I take it out I will replace them because this engine mount have 0km and is as I write brand new there is nothing to inspect I have 7 days who I install the engine to the car with this brand <<original>> mounts
If I take it out I will replace them because this engine mount have 0km and is as I write brand new there is nothing to inspect I have 7 days who I install the engine to the car with this brand <<original>> mounts
All I'm really asking is if you inspected the mounts before they were installed. Was the rubber backing firm or squishy?
I don't know why it would make a difference, but there are 2 engine mount part numbers: manual and automatic. Perhaps the heavier auto trans requires different mount characteristics. Can you check which ones you got or share the part number?
Other options: are you using the correct front and rear engine counterweights and flywheel? They are different between different engine and trans types.
I don't know why it would make a difference, but there are 2 engine mount part numbers: manual and automatic. Perhaps the heavier auto trans requires different mount characteristics. Can you check which ones you got or share the part number?
Other options: are you using the correct front and rear engine counterweights and flywheel? They are different between different engine and trans types.
Yes because i didnt change counterweight. I didn't open the engine for any fix only peripheral i have change.
When the car finish from paint work i will search it in detail.
I think rhat maybe i have wrong injector or i plug wrong some of them..
Yes it's easy to mix up the injector wiring. One set of wires is yellow and the other is beige, and both are usually dirty. You would not be the first to make that mistake.
Just an extra info
This nut who I have undeline ,when the motor mount go out the nut come out with the stud, when we try to screw it back didnt screw well it is very hard to screw it and probably the screw thread is damage.
I am sure that is tight with engine mount but is possible that stud to be the problem with my issue?
Last edited by petros_rx7; 02-28-2021 at 07:58 AM.
Being hard to screw in is not a great sign, but once its in there, I cant see how it alone would cause the vibration you are seeing. Forcing bolts is generally not a great idea. Possible that debris got into the hole, and when you ran the bolt in, it bottom out on the debris and bent/cracked the housing.
It might appear tight in the mount with the engines weight on it, but see if you can jack the engine up a little bit (use a big flat piece of wood under the oil pan) and see if all the bolts are still tight.
Being hard to screw in is not a great sign, but once its in there, I cant see how it alone would cause the vibration you are seeing. Forcing bolts is generally not a great idea. Possible that debris got into the hole, and when you ran the bolt in, it bottom out on the debris and bent/cracked the housing.
It might appear tight in the mount with the engines weight on it, but see if you can jack the engine up a little bit (use a big flat piece of wood under the oil pan) and see if all the bolts are still tight.
yes that I will do I unscrew the 2 bolts from the bracket I leave only the upper nut and the engine mount and then I will jack the engine a little to see if I have any play between engine and bracket.
Some more info
I check every wire from injectors from injector connector to ecu is everything ok also injectors measure 19-22 ohm.
I check and measure also the coil connectors everything ok.I check the spark plugs and works.
I jack the whole engine while is working still the same.vibration.
Today I will putback the old engine mounts ,i dont think that i will see any difference , just in case.
And also I am thinking to replace the ecentric shaft sensor and the ecentric shaft timing disk plate.
Looks that the engine have wrong timing
I dont know what to say.
It is possible when I replace the front engine cover counter weight loose the original position?
02-14-2021, 07:11 AM
