AnimalCrackers

It was unplugged when I got under the car to check the spark plugs, but I plugged it back in, had no clue what it was at the time but it definitely was the E shaft sensor, I haven't done the 20 brake stomps yet though so I'm gonna try that in a bit to see if that fixes anything.

AnimalCrackers

Alright, so it turns out the E shaft sensor wasn't actually plugged in all the way, so I did that and it clicked on, did the 20 stomps, saw the oil temperature gage go up and then back down again, then I tried to start the car with still no luck, and the tach still does not move. I also charged the battery 100% before this, any idea of where to go from here? Would it be worth just replacing the E shaft sensor completely?

Loki

iTrader: (1)

ESS's don't usually die, but it's possible the PO replaced it with a rando one. Does it look recently replaced? If you do replace it, go with Mazda OEM or known good replacement.

AnimalCrackers

It does look like it might be replaced, it doesn't look as dirty as some of the other things in the engine, especially on the bottom.

I also found that the PO had the spark plug wires switched around, so they had all been in the completely wrong places for who knows how long, I switched them all back around and double triple checked they were in the right spots but still no luck, the tach still doesn't move and the engine trying to start sounds the same.

Would the spark plug wires being in the wrong places have ruined the engine? When trying to start the car the check engine light still flashes which I'm guessing suggests it's misfiring still, should I also look into completely replacing the spark plugs themselves?

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Crossing the wires can damage the engine.
It's important to get it right.

See post #6;

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...cement-205737/

AnimalCrackers

Alright so its been a bit since I've been able to work on my car, but one thing I did notice is when I turn the key over just to the on position the engine light flashes, not even when im trying to turn the car over, does that signify something wrong with the Alternator? Or the engine itself? Cause I've read that it means that it could "cause damage to the alternator" but I honestly have no idea what that means. Help is very appreciated

Loki

iTrader: (1)

The engine light flashes if the key is in ON but the engine hasn't been started and it's been more than 10ish seconds. Normal.

The computer is trying to warn you that the engine isn't working. It doesn't know you didn't want it to be working when you put the key to ON.

UnknownJinX

I always thought that's just a self-check, just to show you if the light/flashing function works. The flashing CEL only lasts a few seconds when the car is ON, but not started.

AnimalCrackers

Alright Loki that actually makes a lot of sense, I just kept reading that it could have meant a variety of issues for my car so I wanted to double check with people who know what they're talking about LOL.

Alright now that's out of the way I have another question about trying to deflood the engine itself, I'm still at the point where when I try to start the engine after a couple seconds the CEL flashes so I stop, most likely its still indicating a misfire, I've already replaced 2 out of the 4 spark plugs but haven't checked the others, would it be worth trying to bump/pull start the car to see if it starts? or even just tries to start faster?

Another off topic question as well is would I be able to take the engine apart in the engine bay? Or do I absolutely need to take it out. Thanks!

JoeBlow

Have you checked that the coil control wires are plugged in correctly? That could cause the flashing CEL.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I'd check the remaining 2 spark plugs.
Is it actually indicating a misfire code or just flashing? Because you're not going to deflood the engine with couple second bursts..

Taking the engine apart in the car is not a thing.

AnimalCrackers

Alright I figured taking the engine apart in the car probably wouldn't work, worth a shot though.

And I have no idea honestly, I don't have a way of checking the specific engine codes, the CEL just sits on for a few seconds then starts to flash until I stop trying to start the car which I just assumed was it misfiring, considering the coil wires were switched around I was worried it could've damaged the engine/coils/wires/ themselves? I should be able to check the remaining 2 spark plugs as well, if they were anything like the leading plug I took out of the incorrect spot I imagine it won't look at all pretty. The thing is there was no coolant/gas on that plug as well, which confuses me considering I had been told the car has low compression.

The coil wires were originally not plugged in correctly, the PO had them switched around but it has since been corrected.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Then I would get a bluetooth OBD reader, they're cheap enough and useful on any car, but especially if you're trying to troubleshoot. Will save you many hours of guessing.

Coolant and compression have little to do with each other.

I don't think the components can be damaged by being plugged in out of order as long as everything was plugged and no coil was trying to fire without a plug.

JoeBlow

The control wires I was referring to are the wiring harness to the back of the coil. Each connector has 3 wires. The one closest to the front of the car is colored.
L1 = Green
T1 = White
L2 = Yellow/Green
T2 = Blue/Orange

Have you read this? https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...t-here-222280/

Slawekn1

@OP Few additional things I would check:

1: check what voltage you are getting at the starter motor during cranking. your cranking sounds way slow for a new battery so either you get poor electrical connection or your starter is weak
2: check if you are actually getting spark: just pull out the spark plugs and ground them to the engine and bump the starter long enough till you see each one spark (best if had someone to help)
3: did you check compression on this motor? You mentioned that the engine is low compression but how low is it? If you don't have the proper rotary comp tester then just use the regular one and tape the release valve open and record the "bumps" with your phone to later review video and see comp at each of the rotor faces.

AnimalCrackers

I just took the air intake out and unplugged and re-plugged all the wires back in for the Coils, they are replaced and im not sure which brand I just know they have been replaced by the previous owner at some point. They dont have indications for the correct wire placements, its all just Red, Green, Yellow, but I went off wire length and positioning so Im 95% sure they are correct now.

I have not checked compression on the motor yet, I cant find a place close enough to do a compression test and dont really know how to otherwise? Ill look into what Slawekn said.

But for the voltage where would I check? I know I'd probably need a tool for checking the voltage but would I be checking the fuses/relays?

Also I have bought a Bluetooth OBD2 reader only problem is it wants me to try and start the car or "turn the ignition ON" but then I do and nothing happens the OBD2 reader just stops working and tells me to try again, if I just push the clutch in it seems to work though, but then doesn't display any codes for the engine which makes little sense as I'm staring at the CEL.

Also Loki the PO had taken a spark plug out and I hadn't noticed till recently so I know for a fact that the coils tried to fire without the bottom right leading plug, is that something I should worry about?