When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
After installing my new oil cooler thermostats I noticed that the lines on the driver’s side are severely rusted.
I have found the OEMs from the dealer and the Mishimoto replacements pricing a bit steep.
Does anyone have any experience assembling their own using braided stainless hoses?
If so, what size and type of threads are the ports on the coolers?
you can usually find used ones cheap, but let me know which ones you need because i have 2 or 3 sets laying around. You don’t really want metal braided lines. I won’t even use them myself on a competition car.
can you please clarify which two lines you may need per the photo below? Each hose section is colored. There are two hard piping lines on the LH/Drivers side of the engine (the long one has some flex hose integral on it), two flex hoses at the LH/Drivers side oil cooler, two hard piping lines across the engine bay, and two flex hoses at the RH/Passenger side oil cooler.
You can make your own set. Just measure the lines as needed, dremel the sleeve off your hose and pull out the banjo bolts. Next, buy A line and 10AN fittings. To use braided lines it will need to be a push fit type so you will need this type of fitting. TeamRX8 is correct it’s not the best solution but it is the cheapest and will work if you can’t get new stock lines. He’s graciously offered to sell you what you need so I say go for it. The stock lines are ideal.
Last edited by CaymanRotary; 04-15-2020 at 09:34 PM.
You need 12 feet of -10 hose if you make no errors.... and 6 M18x1.5 -10 fittings and 5 -10 90° to hose and one-10 45° to hose.
The pricing at RX8 Performance is pretty good. If you have to pay retail the parts are almost that much
Yeah, apparently the previous owner in Ohio used to drive it a lot in the winter without underbody washing it.
The dealer said the car sat for a few years before they were asked to sell it.
Apparently, selling it as a favor to the owner; they said they would not normally list a used car like this.
There’s a lot more rust in the rear of the vehicle; rocker panels and rear quarter panels need replaced.
I may decide to replace a lot of the underbody parts over time.
I bought a quart bottle of Corroseal for now; will probably will need more than a gallon by the time I’m done converting all the rust.
The interior is in good shape and it already has about $1500 in Mazdaspeed and Racing Beat mods in it.
Last edited by nordic04; 04-19-2020 at 10:56 AM.
Reason: Added info
This set is from a south TX car so no salt etc there, really hot/dry too. I wasn’t able to get out there today, but will do my best to get them boxed up and shipped out as soon as I can.
Team,
I am in the process of removing the old rusted lines from my car.
I was able to pull the red line out after pulling the clip and disconnecting the purple line from it.
The coupling between the blue and green lines appears to be rusted together.
After pulling the clip and clamping vice grips on either side of the coupling, I cannot twist them apart.
Any tricks other than a Sawzall?
Also, I was reading over some old threads and came across a reply you made back in 2017 about some lines you were putting together.
I am curious if you were happy with the lightweight fiber-braided lines???
I can see how routing fully flexible lines can be challenging.
they aren’t completed yet, the whole thing has been stalled due to some health things I went through then. Was about do do it last Oct, but ended up pulling the engine instead and only just got it back. Was holding up until it’s installed to get all the lengths correct. I also didn’t reveal exactly in detail what I’m doing either, which changed some since then. That greatly affects my decision process. Plus the other stuff we just discussed by pm.
04-14-2020, 09:00 PM
