I've never even seen this oil before, i'm not in the aviation field though.
Questions: stay with this oil?
switch to 5w20 conventional? if switching- how do i ween the engine off this aviation mineral oil?

 

Interesting... sounds like he's a commuter pilot or mechanic, or knows someone who is. AFAIK that might be the best rotary oil known to man... I wonder how much it costs.

 

Previous owner was a custom aircraft builder...i have never heard of this oil before, and wanted some 8 owners' input

1 quart came with the car...now i gotta find where to buy this stuff

online it says 4.95 for a qt and 53.00 for a case- that seems too cheap to be true

 

I would want to know more about it myself (I understand I'm not being that helpful) before switching. I say so not out of fear of what might happen as a result of switching but more so because I know a little about the standards, runtimes, inspections, and rebuild cycles that aircraft engines go through.

Do you know if he runs rotaries in his planes? I'm guessing he does ... probably a true rotard.

You should be able to switch to whatever your personal preference is without any problems.

 

i believe his personal air plane was a piston engine

he showed it to me, i was very impressed. Was built in the 80s and had a single propeller in the rear! (he claimed 108hp)
then my jaw hit the floor...my street bike has roughly that much - and it's not leaving the ground anytime soon...at least the rear tire

 

Interesting to know about this kind of oil. I really want to know if anyone here ever use that same exact oil and how it is with the rotary engine?

I'm subbed for this...

 

where are you is more important when choosing oil then what has been in there before. so where are you?

wait let me guess without looking at your ip just judging by the oil weight in the picture. Florida, Georgia, Bama or Lousiana

 

or AZ

 

Bought the car in southwestern PA - elevation is ~2000ft
I'm currently running this in my rotary

 

yes but where are you, not where did you buy the car.

 

probably a safe assumption the car won't be seeing much flight time at 20,000 ft

Found the data sheet: http://www.phillips66lubricants.com/...w%20027440.pdf

 

its a good weight and a good oil for certain applications in the RX-8. what matters is this particular application and that depends on where he is and his normal use case

 

20w-50 for 0-120+ F based on Australian manual. It would work in most areas. However, I decided to stop 20w-50. Lower gas mileage, which really meant frictional loss and robbing horsepower. On a stock pump would not lubricate as well. Back to 5w-20 to reach tighter tolerance areas to actually lubricate, flow better at cold start wear also.

 

the car will be operated in elevations between 700ft and 3000ft above sea level.

my tire pressure light is now blinking...i checked the manual and it said if its blinking the system is faulty, or out of battery or something.

 

and where are you?

 

20W-50 is a little extreme for the renesis, i would go with 10W-30 or 10W-40 on a higher mileage 8.

 

apparently in witness protection in a undisclosed location....

 

i bought the car at like 2500ft
an hour away from where the car is driven...

my location is the same as the purchase location, sorry for the confusion

 

can you justify your reccommendations against the 5w-20: the owner's manual suggests?

 

id be concerned that the 20w 50 wouldn't lubricate the bearings well for start up in the winter in SW PA. 5w20 would probably be fine but 5w30 will probably be easier to get. no real need to go heavier where you are especially in the winter. Many people feel the 5w20 is too thin altogether and was just chosen because it helps Mazda get better results on the EPA efficiency tests.

 

I use 10w-40 all year round...specially when you live in the desert.

 

Another oil thread - cool!

I'd be concerned about what additives that aviation oil contains or does not contain. The operating conditions for an aircraft engine are different than for a car. Airplanes tend to not spend much time idling while in traffic, etc.

No comment on the weight - other than to say that the Australian chart User24 mentions should be in one of the new owner stickies, and is well worth looking at.

Ken

 

So I just bought my car from a dealer in Northern PA, and I reside in Upstate new York. It just turned 41,000 miles, and aside from some occasional grinding when it starts(which Ive curbed I think by pushing the brake and throttle before each start up on advice from a friend, and it has only done it once since I began doing it), and the oil coolant level light coming on every so often, it runs and drives great!

However I do not know brand, viscosity, or if the previous owner(woman) used synthetic or non synthetic. customer pay history from the dealer doesnt reveal anything helpful, she must've gone to pep boys or something.

What do you guys recommend I use?

 

oil coolant light? we have a coolant light which is a common issue with the sensor but if your seeing an oil light get some oil in your car right away

 

The previous owner's brand and synth/non-synth don't matter, unless she's an expert and you value her opinion. They're all compatible. For weight, read everyone's opinion and when your head stops spinning pick one.

Ken