MazdaPi

iTrader: (1)

Hello all, I've been reading this forum for quite some time but do not have an rx8 currently so have abstained from posting. I have read all the newbie stuff and believe I am ready to attempt to purchase an rx8. I drive a mazda3 and had a protege before that so I like staying with the mazdas. The idea of lots of upkeep isn't a bad thing for me. I like being on top of things like that..

So basics of the car are that it's a 2004 with highish kms on the original engine :$
Secondly the car is in the process of being repainted. I will be doing the painting myself for the most part, I have all the tools and equipment and will be going and renting a paint room/chamber to spray her in.

He says the only thing the car needs is a secondary o2, and the abs sensor plug broke but can be soldered...

No dents or rust.

Car has been sitting for close to 6 months now.

Positives:
It's standard. Leather interior. No sunroof (yay, I'm 6'5, and it means more headroom). HSD Coilovers. StopTech Rotors, Pads, and SS Lines.

- Engine ever replaced [Mazda] No
- - Mileage on current engine [Mazda] 112000
- Engine Compression He says it's good but I haven't seen test results, I may ask him to get it done and I can pay if it comes back fine
- Catalytic converter replaced No
- Mileage of last coil change 5000 kms
- - Has it ever had one or more coils fail on it with the current cat? No
- Mileage of last plug change 5000
- Mileage of last plug wire change 5000
- Has it ever been flooded? (cat life remaining info) nope
- Tail lights ever replaced? [2004, 2005] He said one of them has been..?
- - If not, have the seals ever been replaced, or the tailights modified to drain water? Not sure
- Oil consumption (ask in how many miles between adding a quart or half a quart, and have them tell you which it was)) Not sure he said he tops it up twice between oil changes (5000kms)
- MSP 13 performed by a dealer, and date / mileage [Mazda 2004, 2005] Not done
- Gas mileage typically seen As low as 10L/100kms
- Number of miles typically on the trip odometer when the low gas light comes on
(yes, ask both gas mileage questions) I didn't ask sorry
- Starter replaced to the upgraded version [2004, 2005] Yes and alternator(?)
- Temperature control **** ever replaced or repaired [2004, 2005] No
- Clutch pedal assembly ever replaced, re-welded, or re-inforced No, but no issues
- Cranking time before starting when cold Fast
- Cranking time before starting when hot Fast

He wants 4000 OBO... I'm thinking I can probably get him close to 3000.
Is it worth it? I'm supposed to be taking it for a test drive next week. Any questions I should ask or little tests I can do? Should I avoid it entirely?

I was originally looking to spend more and get a later rx8 that would have an engine still covered by mazdas extended 8 year warranty (up to 10000$ hopefully 2008 or newer). I can get the vin but I'm not sure what to do with it.

I was thinking this would help me learn a bit about the cars nuances and stuff so when I want to spend a bit more money I will be more prepared and can get an R3.

Hope this is ok that I posted this. (First real post... woo!)

Thanks in advance, and it's been a pleasure reading this forum. Very informative and educational and fun.

-Darien

Mysterion

Most important, so first thing I list:get the compression test done by a Mazda dealer or Mazda specialist garage. This has to be done right to give a valid indication as to the condition of the motor.
Next, your question about the VIN: Yes...by all means get the VIN then call your local dealer's service dept and give them the VIN. Tell them the truth; you are thinking of buying this car and ask them if a) all the applicable recalls have been done and b) if the motor has ever been replaced under warranty. They have no vested interest so their responses will be more candid.
Once those are done, an option would be to get a rotary specialist who knows 8's to give the entire car a once over in case you have missed anything like possibly cat performance.

If all the above come back clean and/or within reasonable parameters, by all means, start negotiating and try to get the car safetied and e-tested. The safety certification, alone, can save you some serious money in potential repairs. For example, when mine was done, I got all new brakes: rotors, calipers and pads and new tires.

BTW, 112,000 km is really not that high if the car was maintained and driven properly. Once bought, reread the new owner's guide til your eyes feel like they are falling out. Then read the "First $100. mods post and seriously consider many of the mods. They are, for the most part, cheap and easy DIY fixes and improvements that won't break the bank and will help establish a solid service baseline with which you can speed up troubleshooting if anything goes wrong later.

MazdaPi

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the feedback! I'm pretty sure I can get him to get a compression test but I doubt I can get him to take it somewhere ELSE and have it once-overed my a rotary specialist. I will get the vin and make the appropriate calls as well. But if that goes as planned (good compression, all recalls have been done, no new motor... etc.)... do you think it's a solid bet?
Obviously nothing is ever solid in the world of rotary and I will keep rereading the new owners guide. I will have no trouble doing all the little mods to improve/fix some things diy. I'm actually pumped to do it.

I'll attempt to negotiate with him for a safety and etest if possible. We shall see. Thanks again. More advice is always welcome.

-D

MazdaPi

iTrader: (1)

Double posted by accident. My bad.

Mysterion

If he has nothing to hide, there should be no reason for him to object to you getting the car checked over by a mechanic. If he objects to you doing it, you might want to think twice about the car. Another thing you might want to look into is getting a CarProof report on the car. It will tell you in a hurry if the car has ever been crashed as well as how many people have registered the car since it was sold new.


https://www.carproof.com/order

MazdaPi

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the tips! I'll get a carproof. Would a mazda mechanic be able to tell me if it's in good condition? I could maybe get him to agree to a presafety and compression test. Then if it all checks out I'll ask the mechanic his opinion as well.
-D

TWTCH

I paid 10 for my '04, but its the GT w/ sunroof, XXR rims and tires, and two tone red interior, with only 12k miles on the engine. (48k on the car.) For what youre looking to spend, I'd go for something a little more road ready, but if you wanna save some $$ and put some wrench and paint time in, then by all means. The '04 is a great a car and best of luck with whatever you decide.

Scottobot

I think I know the car you're talking about (at least I've seen the ad on Trader.. it's the least expensive RX8 in Ontario at the moment).
I'd stay away personally because I assumed the "needs paint" comment meant rust, but if you can do your own body work that may not be a concern. Not sure if he has records to back up when the coils, plugs and wires were replaced (5k is a really round number)? Also 10L/100km is abnormally fuel efficient for these cars (refer to fuelly.com 2004 Mazda RX-8 Mileage). I guess it could be true depending on the type of driving he does.
In any case I'd say Carproof is a must.
As for the value, consider that even if you need to replace the engine (assume $5k) you'd end up with a really nice car with a fresh engine for under $10k.

Jay719

well i would post something intelligent except everything is in km and L .........


oh yea compression test, check for rust and verify the records
Basically everything everyone else said i guess

MazdaPi

iTrader: (1)

haha. Stoopid Canadians. Eh?

Ya I'm going to see it next week so we shall see. If I like it I'll schedule a compression test and get a carproof and move forward accordingly.

I'll let everybody know what happens.

Scottobot

Hey, how did this go? Looks like the ad's still up.. you didn't take it?