cj1988

Hey guys, new to the forum so please don't crucify me if there is already a post on this. I have looked on here for weeks but can't find anyone who has had the same sort of issue that I'm having.

I have an 05 rx8 manual that I bought a couple of months ago. It had low compression when I got it and since then I've had a new engine, starter, bhr coils and plug wires, spark plugs, and battery installed and cleaned the throttled body but it still struggles pretty bad to start when engine is hot. It starts fine when cold. Mazda says the compression is fine and that they don't really know what the issue is since everything that would cause an issue like that (ie engine, coils, etc) has been replaced. Car runs fine other than that. No loss of power or weird idling, I'm just trying to be proactive in getting it fixed.

Any help would be appreciated, most of the forums on the compression issues I've already read and that's led me to do the repairs I've done so far, but the issue hasn't been fixed.

200.mph

iTrader: (9)

where did you get the new engine? do you have a cat?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

What are the compression scores on the new engine?

"Mazda says it's fine" sounds like "we are telling him it's fine because he doesn't know any better and we don't want to recognize we gave him a bad engine."

We see people coming to the forum all the time with dead engines that dealers are telling them "is fine".

DAT2RTR

Exactly what RIWWP said. Along with that, how many miles are on the new engine, and what kind of break in procedure did you do?

cj1988

Compression scores were all in the 700s, when I get home I can actually look at the paper. The engine was from Mazda because the old one had the recall. The new engine has roughly 300 miles on it (round trip to work is about 50 miles, yeah I know), and I wasn't aware there was a procedure to do when it was installed. Is it too late to do so? And yes, it does have a cat. That could be the problem if it's clogged.

Thanks for help

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

700s could be dead failing if you have a fast starter, or passing if you have a weak one, or passing if you live in a high altitude. Lots more to the scores than just the raw numbers.


There was never a recall on the engine. Only recalls have been airbag and emissions related. You are referring to the extended warranty, which is definitely not a recall.

Actually, this is probably your issue. Give it time to break in properly. Compression starts out a bit low and will continue rising over the first ~5,000 miles, though most of the compression should be there by the time you hit 1,000 miles.

No, not really, especially since there are so many opinions on what breakin does or does not do. But the main one people go for is taking it easy for the first 1,000 miles, slowly increasing the max revs you use every 200 miles or so.

Yes, possible.

cj1988

The old engine was replaced at 123k miles and I didn't add a warranty on it. I actually just took it into the dealer when I first got the car and to have the compression test done and they said that it met a recall for the engine (it took them about two weeks to see if I qualified because they were having computer issues). That's a hell of a warranty if it's not a recall as the car is 10 years old.

Thanks again for your help and advice, I'll double check the compression test on the new engine (old engine tested in the 620s and 670s) and the cat. The starter isn't an upgraded one but a refurbished one. That's the only one advanced auto had. Is there a site you guys buy your starters from?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Wow. I suspect that if the dealer actually knew what they were doing, you wouldn't have gotten an engine at all. The warranty is 8yr 100k. There ISN'T, and never has been, a recall on the engine. I work with the dealer network documentation from every major manufacturer, and I have re-confirmed the actually full list of all Mazda recalls ever issued several times. Only 7 recalls have ever been issued for the RX-8, and none of them are for the engine.

A lot of people get the warranty confused with a recall however, and it doesn't surprise me that even a dealer would be subject to this confusion. Looks like you lucked out on their error, so don't tell them


When you get your test result sheet, there should be a starter speed listed on there. The starter speed is all that matters, not which starter you have. There were 4 starter versions, and you could have a low crank speed from a newer one, or a fast crank speed from an older one. The version ultimately doesn't matter, just the cranking speed.

DAT2RTR

Your compression test results should look something like this. These are mine. I got it done last Thursday. Needless to say, I'm not driving it anymore right now.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Holy hell that is a bad test result.

Awesome starter though

DAT2RTR

No hot start issues, pukes oil into the intake occasionally, dynoed with 146 at the wheels. Goes to show.

cj1988

Engine will not start at all if hot. The thermostat has to be no more than a quarter high before I can even attempt to get it started again and even then it really struggles. Also, the shut off valve has a worn out bearing as well and the car has a weird idle (revs up to 1500, slowly drops to 1k, then quickly drops to right below 500 causing the car to shake, then revs back up to 1500).

I already had an appointment with the dealership and it wasn't too much of a problem because when I drove to work, the engine would be cool by the time I was off and going home. I was driving home the other day however, and the cel blinked a few times (first time it's ever come on through all of this) and within a matter of seconds the engine itself cut off. This happened as I was coming off the interstate and slowing for a red light. I popped the clutch and the engine came back on but I had to slow down for the red light and the engine died as soon as the revs dropped. I had the car towed to the dealership because I didn't want to risk driving it further and it stalling again or screwing something up.

Dealer said they were "90% sure" the eccentric sensor was the problem. Just got it back after they replaced it and it's still the same. So I called them pissed as **** because they told me that they tested it and that the car would start hot or cold every time for them. That's hard to believe as the repairs took a few hours and I got the car back that same day. Now they're trying to say that the bhr ignition coils are probably the problem.

I'm starting to regret buying this car and I feel like the dealership is milking this for all they can. When it runs I love it, but now I'm just throwing money at it and it's becoming a money pit.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

You should maybe try to find a knowledgeable rotary mechanic.
Dealerships don't always have techs who actually know how to work on rotaries.
A flashing CEL is a misfire.
Could be a fouled plug, a wire not connected right, or maybe a failed GM coil, they have been known to fail occasionally.

logalinipoo

Did you ever find the compression results?

Loki

iTrader: (1)

It sounds like you're right about the dealer, do you have another nearby? Or a rotary shop? Based on this story, they have no idea what they're doing, so money will continue to be thrown as long as they're involved.

Based on your description, the next course of action should be a compression test.
The engine they gave you could be a dud, or they could have not replaced the engine at all. We can entertain other possibilities once we have a known good engine.

I would also suggest calling Mazda of North America and explaining the story to them. I don't believe the eccentric shaft position sensor is among the troubleshooting steps for hot start issues, so the dealer is making this stuff up as they go along, which is not acceptable by you or by Mazda. They'll also be able to confirm what happened with the "warranty" engine replacement.

gwilliams6

Starting issues link here:

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...t-here-222584/



Starting the Engine
• Starter
• Battery
• Engine Compression
• Grounding Wires
• Ignition Coils
• Spark Plugs
• Spark Plug Wires
• Fuel Pump
• Fuel Injectors

Generating Power at Full Throttle
• Ignition Coils
• Spark Plugs
• Spark Plug Wires
• Engine Compression
• E-Shaft Sensor (ESS)
• Air Filter
• Intake Valving
• Throttle Body
• Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF)
• Fuel Pump
• Fuel Injectors
• Catalytic Converter (Cat)

Keeping the Engine at a Cruise
• Ignition Coils
• Spark Plugs
• Spark Plug Wires
• Engine Compression
• E-Shaft Sensor (ESS)
• Intake Valving
• Throttle Body
• Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF)
• Fuel Pump
• Fuel Injectors
• Front O2 sensor
• Catalytic Converter (Cat)

Keeping the Engine at an Idle
• Ignition Coils
• Spark Plugs
• Spark Plug Wires
• Engine Compression
• E-Shaft Sensor (ESS)
• Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF)
• Front O2 sensor
• Catalytic Converter (Cat)
• Intake Vaccum