Matt Yearwood

hi everybody, first time 8 owner here, life time car enthusiast, and automotive apprentice. So correct me if I am wrong but from what I have read the biggest issue pertaining to the OEM coils is that they overheat mostly due to no heat sinks and location. Has anybody ever tried to extend ignition harness and mount the coils in a spot further away from the engine maybe somewhere that actually receives direct air flow for cooling purposes and add in heat sinks? Considering trying this and monitoring coils to see if we can get any more longevity out of them. Thoughts on this?

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

I doubt there are any questions that haven't already been asked in the last 15 years.

From 2006.

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...located-82232/

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Matt Yearwood

Are those sakebombs coil kit?

Matt Yearwood

And thank you the thread was a good read it had some really good info in it, but my question more pertains to if anyone has actually relocated the OE coils and documented their findings

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Yes, just to show an area the coils can be relocated to.
They are much larger than OEM.
I have them, they originally mount to the AC bracket.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

OK, if you read the thread, your original question was answered early on in posts 2 and 10.
If you want to relocate the OEM coils, you're probably going to have a bad time.

Matt Yearwood

Yes and i read both of those but as 9k said its theoretical im sure there is a way around the wiring issue, and i would assume whether it be radiant heat or electrical Heat that having some sort of cooling Factor like a wind tunnel plumbed directly from an exterior air vent. I need to learn more about electrical systems my knowledge fall falls short there most of experiencing time spent researching has been on the mechanical side

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

I'm no Nicky Tesla, but I'm pretty sure temperature has no bearing on capacitance.
But hey, knock yourself out.

Matt Yearwood

I have no idea as i said really no clue how the electrical side of cars work it hurts my brain lol, altho this would probably be a topic i could be more intellectually involved with if I wasn't on 48hrs no sleep 😴

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

This might help.
You referenced 9k, here's a question;
If he could have gotten good results just relocating the OEM coils using a new harness and longer plug wires, why would he then spend over $500 on a BHR ignition upgrade?

Matt Yearwood

The coils are still better quality there is no denying that, im just always thinking about stuff, im that what if guy, like what if you you stuck your evaporator core in your air intake to cool IAT on a boosted application and everyone told me I was dumb and then dodge did it less than a year ago. I like to think of the unheard and try to make it work because why not.

UnknownJinX

Too much work for too little return IMO.

I don't think there is definite evidence that the heat is killing our OEM coils. It's all just theories.

Matt Yearwood

I pretty much came to that conclusion after reading the other thread, now its more for theoretical discussion as I enjoy questioning the unknown. So if the problem is the coil being over worked (theoretically) if the ecu had extra pin outs, and you had access to mazdas writing software would it not be possible to add and additional 4 coils and install diodes in the leads so you could have the coil firing every other combustion cycle allowing it to work half as much.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Given that Mazda didn't radically change the coil design to include heatsinks, leads me to believe the issue isn't just heat (or heat at all). More likely they changed the coils electronic properties. Considering the number of engines they've replaced, I'm sure if all it took was a heatsink, they would have done it.

Also I feel like heat failures would manifest in a couple thousand miles, not 20-25k.
But, it's easy to test if you rig up get a thermocouple and see how hot the coils are after a good run.

Matt Yearwood

Ya ill check temp after some hard driving in stock location and then again in a different location, if i use a data logger for each run to track afr, coolant temp, oil temp, and misfire that should be a pretty clear indication, will have to wait until im on the road again tho. Speaking of temps is there any brand of gauges you guys would suggest, i like the prosport evo ones but i just cant bring myself to cut a massive hole in my dash. Wish they just had aftermatket clusters for our car.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Racing beat makes gauge pods, but by far the better/easier solution is either a ScanGauge or an OBD2 bluetooth connector + smartphone running Torque or a similar app. That way you can log the data rather than just look at it.
A GoodBox is awesome if you can find one for sale, it'll give you all this data in the center console display.

Matt Yearwood

End goal is to intall factor nav dash, and install a tablet in the flip up unit and run a bluedriver. Carputer all the way, but as im strapped for cash for fancy installs rn, so just looking for simple stupid easy so my engine doesn't melt from the inside out. Already got so much to do gunna try water injection and atf treatment to hopefully bring up compression. The test mazda gave me was bs as they only gave me one number per housing, and with mid-low 5s (so theu1 day)it has no hot or cold start issues its just cranks a lil slow but alwaus starts first time only thing ive noticed is minor rough idle which i am accounting to 40k oe coils

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Slow cranking could just be your starter dying. They do that, especially if it's not the later 2.0kw version. It's not expensive to get that replacement.
And since compression is rpm-dependent, especially on rotaries, that 5.5 at 180 rpm could easily turn into 7.x at 250 rpm which is the only valid rpm for judging compression test results.
So.. I'd look into that before water and ATF, but one doesn't prevent the other.

Williard

iTrader: (18)

The starter Loki is referencing is the N3R3, not to be confused with the N3Z1 which for some reason i see is trying to be passed off as the "Upgraded starter". Frankly it is a good starter and it is technically an upgrade. However, it is not THE upgrade. That is the N3R3.


Travis