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Hi All,
I recently blew the coolant seals on the motor (all coolant evacuated through overflow), which was the original motor with 101k miles...
I think I may have warped the housings, but I am not sure. I pulled the engine, but am still reading the manuals for disassembly before I rip it apart. I read a bit about it on 7club, but thought maybe there are some differences with the Renesis. Is there any way to tell if the housings are warped (in my backyard, without any super special equipment...)?
also
My housings have 100k miles on them. I am almost sure they need to be resurfaced, and even if they are warped, then I will be buying a cheap pair of eBay housings that are used (yes, I am well aware of all the dangers) and also need resurfacing. A bit of a noobish question, but assuming that they are usable (able to be resurfaced), then can I take them to a local machine shop and have them machined (just enough to get a decent surface) assuming that there would still be enough material to not compromise the housing structurally? I ask this because while, yes, I can just buy a pair of housing that are clean and resurfaced, that is 1k+, and I am attempting to make this a "budget rebuild" (even though such a thing does not really exist, at least as far as I can read). basically, I am trying to save money, and yes, cut corners where I can. I don't expect to get more then 30 or 40k out of this rebuild...
It's not the structural integrity of the housings that should concern you. It's the thin chrome coating that flakes during use and some of which is removed during resurfacing.
Going the route you're going, I wouldn't expect 10k miles out of the rebuild. At least, that's how much I got out of my budget rebuild when OJ Imports did it for me.
That makes sense... I saw your thread describing your experience with OJ Imports; that sucks...
is there any to tell for sure that the housings are warped or not? Like I said, I am in the process of reading the manuals before I teardown, and I know they go through how to check if everything is in spec, so I am alright there, but I am not sure how to check if the housings are warped.
I wouldn't trust a rando machine shop with the housings. This isn't an easy shape to machine with even precision.
Why not buy a rebuilt engine from a rebuilder like RotaryResurrection and return your motor to him for core charge? You might pay 1k more in total, but save many times that in headaches and time.
well, part of the equation is that my dad decided that this would be a great first car, so I am a broke 16yr old, so I am trying to save a few bucks where I can... If you look at the other thread I posted recently asking about the Atkins brown water seals, then there is more details there... Basically, I am using one of our other cars in the meanwhile (not exactly like I need one), so this is mostly a fun project.
A local machine shop...not a good idea for this type thing for the reasons indicated.
There are rotary specific outfits, search the web, that perform housing eval & resurfacing. If your housings are not adequate for resurfacing...they often have... or have access to used housings at reasonable prices. Better option than Ebay IMO.
Additionally, rebuilds on the cheap...are an option as well. Others will have to vouche for the quality to expect...as I didn't go that route. Pulling and reinstalling the engine... while allowing someone else to do the rebuild may be a good compromise to consider.
well, part of the equation is that my dad decided that this would be a great first car, so I am a broke 16yr old, so I am trying to save a few bucks where I can... If you look at the other thread I posted recently asking about the Atkins brown water seals, then there is more details there... Basically, I am using one of our other cars in the meanwhile (not exactly like I need one), so this is mostly a fun project.
Oh. I think I remember your intro thread, that ended somewhere along the lines of "will dad pay for the rebuild when it needs one?". So. I guess. Here we are.
As long as it's just a project, feel free to experiment, but buying $1000 worth of seals to do a shadetree rebuild to then have to do it all over again in 10k miles seems... it's the worst of all possible options.
These cars are a lot more fun to drive than to rebuild
Honestly, at this point you are better off selling this car off to someone who has the budget to put a new engine in it. All this time, work and effort and you still may not have a working car making you literally penniless and powerless. Next time you buy an RX-8 always demand to see a recent compression test or you are really rolling the dice.
Yes, it may have been a bad decision to get an 8, but what's done is done, and I really do appreciate the advice, but I am set on keeping the car, and attempting a rebuild. I am aware of all the risks involved, and see it as a wonderful learning experience. I know that, yes, there is a possibility that I may end up with a screwed up build that does not last 5k miles, but I am ready to accept responsibility for whatever happens, and do not intend to come whining here (or anywhere...). I realize that I am a noob, and have much to learn, and also that most other people in the community know much, much, much more then I do, and I want to learn! (and isn't experience/doing something yourself the best way to learn?). If I come here, it will be with honest questions that I have researched beforehand.
Anyways, I am set on attempting a rebuild, and pulled the motor Saturday. I will be making an engine stand adapter tonight, and mounting it there for teardown... Thank you for all the advice, I really do appreciate it
Car enthusiasts make very few good decisions with respect to their hobby.
This goes doubly for rotary car enthusiasts.
You're very young. This is a good time to make financial mistakes. Failures teach far better than successes.
Just don't kill yourself or anybody else once you get the car up and running.
Yes, it may have been a bad decision to get an 8, but what's done is done, and I really do appreciate the advice, but I am set on keeping the car, and attempting a rebuild. I am aware of all the risks involved, and see it as a wonderful learning experience. I know that, yes, there is a possibility that I may end up with a screwed up build that does not last 5k miles, but I am ready to accept responsibility for whatever happens, and do not intend to come whining here (or anywhere...). I realize that I am a noob, and have much to learn, and also that most other people in the community know much, much, much more then I do, and I want to learn! (and isn't experience/doing something yourself the best way to learn?). If I come here, it will be with honest questions that I have researched beforehand.
Anyways, I am set on attempting a rebuild, and pulled the motor Saturday. I will be making an engine stand adapter tonight, and mounting it there for teardown... Thank you for all the advice, I really do appreciate it
You got a really good attitude about it. If it were me, I'd be going back to the gym to blow off serious steam. Good luck with your rebuild. We will await your results. Post pics of your rotors and housings when you open the sandwich.
I will be filming the entire teardown process (still stripping ancillary systems) and posting it on Youtube, hopefully at some point in the next few days...
Me with the engine
I haven't got any new pictures, been very busy. At least got it stripped down to the bare short block... have been putting off making an engine stand adapter for a while now as my welding helmet is not working properly *sigh*. I really do wonder how I am going to get the front E-shaft bolt off. I have done a bunch of research, and a really massive breaker bar seems to be the only sure way (I'll just have my family stand on it, and that should do it ); but my dad's 1300lb-ft impact was like nothing was happening, so that should be fun. I will post a full video of the entire teardown on youtube, and link it here when it is up. barring any hiccups, that is looking up for Friday... stay tuned
Ahhh, someone after my own heart! I'm doing a cheap Renesis rebuild, more for ***** and giggles than anything else. Keep updating us on your progress! RR would be my choice for resurfacing the housings.
Fixing a broken car, even badly, even if it only runs for another few thousand miles, is great hands-on training, and a great way to accomplish something that might cost $$$ if you were paying someone to teach you. It's like $30k to go to Hennessey and do their classes. Just keep making progress and asking questions. I don't think money is wasted if you look at what you're learning, and most people already know that for really good results, everything has to be near perfect.
AS far as the front bolt goes, a 1/2" breaker bar with a 24" handle and the alu jack handle extension off my HF Ally racing jack was enough for mine. About the same as a Subaru crank bolt or the cam bolts, or a spindle nut. They are all tight as hell, but will succumb. Be careful though! Makes a hell of a crack when it moves.
I said somewhere that I would be getting a Mazda reman, but that is not the case, as they ran out, then raised the price by 1k... (Mazda did, hence all the distributors did too) so I am back to doing it myself.
As for the front crank bolt, I started another thread on that, and mine is really stuck. Like, really, really stuck. that thread (which I don't feel like linking at the moment) i have listed all the things that I tried, but I tried a lot, and have yet to budge it... at some point within the next week or two, (or 3) I will be using a collection of the longest metal things that I have to try to break it lose; and if that does not work, then out comes the drill.
I said somewhere that I would be getting a Mazda reman, but that is not the case, as they ran out, then raised the price by 1k... (Mazda did, hence all the distributors did too) so I am back to doing it myself.
As for the front crank bolt, I started another thread on that, and mine is really stuck. Like, really, really stuck. that thread (which I don't feel like linking at the moment) i have listed all the things that I tried, but I tried a lot, and have yet to budge it... at some point within the next week or two, (or 3) I will be using a collection of the longest metal things that I have to try to break it lose; and if that does not work, then out comes the drill.
Try a blowtorch on it first before you drill it. Can't be stuck if its a liquid.
I'm not sure how good that is for the eccentric shaft. It might not be designed to experience axial force like a drill press. Nor the gears and finer thrust bearings inside the engine. I mean, if you have no choice, you have no choice but you may want to just source an unabused eccentric shaft after. Or go really slow on the drill press with minimal pressure.
true... but then again, I will probably have to do that regardless, because if what I have done so far has not worked, then I highly doubt that anything will work without breaking/damaging something. 250 lbs (someone else and me) sitting on an 8 or 10 foot (no joke) breaker bar is a real lot of force.
10-27-2019, 08:46 PM
); but my dad's 1300lb-ft impact was like nothing was happening, so that should be fun. I will post a full video of the entire teardown on youtube, and link it here when it is up. barring any hiccups, that is looking up for Friday... stay tuned 