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Newbie's Guide to Modding the RX-8

Old 02-06-2016, 01:12 AM
  #201  
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Originally Posted by Khurram View Post
I have an 06 ported motor with AEM, BhR Ignition , BHR Midpipe and Full cat back exhaust.
It netted at 225ish WHP.

I have a few friends who dynoed their 8's all stock at 185-200 whp.
One friend dynoed his 8 with cat delete 210 WHP
I guess it also depends on engine's health.
The most I recall seeing N/A build pushed 230 WHP thats with porting, polishing and etc

Rx8 came pretty refined from factory and Mazda milked every last drop of juice out of this renny motor.

Best and Cheapest mod by far has been CAT Delete and it also helps your engine last longer
Thats pretty good, more than a WRX makes and around what a stock 350Z probably makes.

It seems like they do that with most lightweight cars they stick a lightweight engine in but one thats small and been squesssed to the max and doesn't make much power... just like the Miata and the S2000 and the boxster... oh the cars light weight, so that means it only needs 150-200hp... imagine the 2.3 turbo in a RX8, it would probably be a little more front heavy but it would haul, even the 1.8 Mazdaspeed MX5 motor would be nice, or any 1.6-2.0 turbo.

Originally Posted by hufflepuff View Post
I have heard a healthy / factory fresh RX-8 will dyno in the 175-180ish WHP range. I feel the RX-8 was quite over-rated, and it is sensitive/prone to loosing power through loss of compression, loss of spark strength, and other losses (gumming of intake components, fuel pump woes, etc). So it's not uncommon for RX-8s to lay down low numbers, say 150-165WHP.



Headers and a tune would maybe be worth 10ish WHP? The consensus is that CAI is a few HP tops, catback is a few HP tops, some folks say the mid pipe is worth a bit but other say it's not worth much at all. Dynos talk, but too few people dyno a single component back-to-back, they lump a bunch of mods together and it's tough to say WHICH component produced the best gains.


Lightweight cars have their own advantages. I'm okay with getting beat by trucks or Camrys in a straight line, because that's not what I consider "competition". The RX-8s prowess is displayed on a winding road, autocross, or road course.
Hmmm I always heard Rotary's got faster with age... I'm ok getting beat by a Camero or something but a V6 mini van... or Camry... I don't mind having to wind the engine up and shift a lot. Perfect 50/50 weight distribution, under 3000lbs, great seating position and primary controls... but horrid gas mileage little power and no TQ.

Originally Posted by Brettus View Post
Yeah ... you might not make much more power but still worth doing IMO.
Hard to find a tuner competent with the Cobb and rx8 combo though . PM me if you geet stuck.
Yeah these things were crazy when they came out but now nobody seems to care and stuff like the 350Z is still more popular than even its newer replacement.

Last edited by ScaryfatkidGT; 02-06-2016 at 01:23 AM.
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Old 02-06-2016, 12:56 PM
  #202  
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The lightweight RX8 driven with a skilled driver will trounce many other cars on fun roads. We in Erica are so fixated on 0 to 60 and other straight measures. When I drive for enjoyment, I take it out on the twisties where the rx8 shines.
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Old 04-12-2016, 02:09 PM
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This is probably the best "Read this first" thread I've ever seen. Much thanks to the people who put time and effort into making it. I've been out of the rotary game for about 12 years and I had a lot of "Oh, yeah!" moments going through this.
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Old 04-16-2016, 07:05 AM
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Enjoyed. Good information. Liked the Blown Motor section and Power Mod sections. Confirmed some thoughts regarding Mods.
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Old 07-04-2016, 07:59 AM
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I'm glad I finally sat down and did some reading, this answered a lot of underlying questions I had about mods and such. The only thing I didn't think I saw was cooling, but the answer there is really always "Bigger radiator and fans." Glad to see that the BHR coils was listed, I've looked at others but don't really have any information on them.
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Old 07-05-2016, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by CelestialGryphon View Post
I'm glad I finally sat down and did some reading, this answered a lot of underlying questions I had about mods and such. The only thing I didn't think I saw was cooling, but the answer there is really always "Bigger radiator and fans." Glad to see that the BHR coils was listed, I've looked at others but don't really have any information on them.
I've heard folks claim the OEM fans are very, very good. and once you're up to speed, it's all about flow through the radiator (fans aren't playing a large role). a good radiator and good ducting are the way to go.
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Old 07-05-2016, 03:22 PM
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On the subject of cooling, i bought a new product that really works good and it is a cooling fan control kit by RX8 Performance. It is a sensor you insert into the cooling line to your recovery tank and it is wired into two fan sensors in your fuse box that plug into your stock sensor in the fuse box and it turns the fans on at 180 instead of 208 degrees instead of running at 210 to 220 before fans come on , with the kit the fans come on at 180 to 190. I plan on switching the two fan sensors out in winter for the stock one and back to the kit one in the summer. Heat kills RX8's .
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Old 09-04-2016, 08:55 PM
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Thanks for the starter kit of info

Answered about 3/4 of my questions in one post. Outstanding. Thanks!
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Old 02-28-2017, 05:41 PM
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Maybe I missed it in here, but what about the oil cooler thermostats? I understand the factory ones don't open until 220* and close at 190*, yet the oil temps should stay closer to 180*. I have seen the 180* thermostat oil cooler kit, but does anyone know if this actually keeps the oil that much cooler?

Also, oil pans... I am looking a the mazdatrix or RX8Performance oil pan for extra capacity and the baffling. Since I do track days, the baffling and capacity could help, but is one a better design than the other?
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Old 03-01-2017, 12:15 AM
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Stay away from the RX8Performance Oil pan, some people report a poor fit.
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Old 03-01-2017, 04:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Shinka1195 View Post
Maybe I missed it in here, but what about the oil cooler thermostats? I understand the factory ones don't open until 220* and close at 190*, yet the oil temps should stay closer to 180*. I have seen the 180* thermostat oil cooler kit, but does anyone know if this actually keeps the oil that much cooler?

Also, oil pans... I am looking a the mazdatrix or RX8Performance oil pan for extra capacity and the baffling. Since I do track days, the baffling and capacity could help, but is one a better design than the other?

I have oil and temp gauges. Cruising around, my oil temps rarely go over 180F. I think the OEM oil cooler t-stat is set to 180F, and it has a bypass, which often leads to overcooling. I taped over both oil cooler ducts during the winter and my oil temps settle around 200-210F; this also helps prevent oil foam on the dipstick. I wouldn't recommend this unless you have gauges to keep an eye. on track with both ducts open I see 200-210F oil temperatures.


I also use the OEM oil pan on track. I keep the car topped off between sessions. No oil pressure issues out on track. I am running NASA TT at a good pace, but I'm not on Hoosiers.
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Old 11-02-2017, 04:08 PM
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great write up
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Old 11-03-2017, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by hufflepuff View Post
I have oil and temp gauges. Cruising around, my oil temps rarely go over 180F. I think the OEM oil cooler t-stat is set to 180F, and it has a bypass, which often leads to overcooling. I taped over both oil cooler ducts during the winter and my oil temps settle around 200-210F; this also helps prevent oil foam on the dipstick. I wouldn't recommend this unless you have gauges to keep an eye. on track with both ducts open I see 200-210F oil temperatures.


I also use the OEM oil pan on track. I keep the car topped off between sessions. No oil pressure issues out on track. I am running NASA TT at a good pace, but I'm not on Hoosiers.
What kind of oil and oil change interval do you run?
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Old 10-09-2018, 07:01 PM
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Just wanted to say thanks for the write up.
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