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I recently got a 2005 Shinka Edition RX-8. One of my first cars in Hawaii and I was so excited because I got it for $1500 (ran and drove) Shortly after did I fall into the all-too-common plauge of rotaries. The engine started to over heat, radiator blew, compression lost and I had a dead engine in less than 2 weeks. 4 port auto rensis engine dead @65K Miles. Cause of death: Coolant seal failure.
At the time I didnt know exactly what was wrong, but eventually I took the motor out and dis-assembled it. I quickly found a broken coolant seal. The rest of the engine appeared to be ok. I wanted to just re-build it but the cost of rebuild is so high:
Engine Kit - $1500 from atkins rotary
Resurface and clean engines parts: $800
Then I reminded myself, Do I want to spend $2300 + on an engine that makes 140hp and its an automatic? Nope. Scratch that.
New Plan:
1) Get a 6 port engine and 6 speed transmission
2) Do a 6 speed swap
3) Rebuild the 6 port into a hybrid renesis, but using all renesis parts. Machine the housings in-house to add the exhaust ports and also do intake p-ports.
4) Add studs and dowels.
5) shoot for 250whp N/A and tune with Cob access port
I just picked up a c 2005 Shinka Edition Rx8 Mmm, so pretty and clean Auto 4 port...no thanks. Gone! Crashed RX8 removing the 6 speed 6port trans and engine.
rashed S1 6 speed Rx8 and took the parts out of it. Will soon rebuild the engine and start the process.
It seems like the RX8 is such an undervalued car. Its got a great chassis, and a lot of potential. They just need a little work for reliability and everything is ok. The manual swap I hope goes smoothly. All kinds of parts needed but worth it in the end.
If you're planning to stay N/A, is studding the block necessary? Even at extreme RPM's, some clearancing on the rotors would be sufficient for them not to bite their housings. I thought studding was only a thing for engines at risk of warping due to high boost
It seems like the RX8 is such an undervalued car. Its got a great chassis, and a lot of potential. They just need a lot work for reliability and everything is still a crapshoot.
I am not going to stay N/A. I want to prove otu a high-HP NA Rensis. I have not seen anybody hit 250whp on a rensis yet, plus 100shot of N20 so 350whp. Once I show it can be done, I am going to turbo it and go for 450whp on pump gas, and 550whp with water injection. I expect it to be one of the highest HP renesis engines on pump gas.
Seriously bro.
People have been talking like that here for years.
Good luck to you, but I'm 99.98% sure you won't get there.
I suggest you concentrate on just getting the engine and tranny swap done first.
That alone is a huge challenge.
Tbh, the gains you're talking about are a pipe dream, unless you have tens of thousands of dollars you're willing to throw away on the slim chance you'll be successful, which, if memory serves, would make you the first.
I could be wrong, but I sure can't think of any examples in the 11 years I've been here.
Most talk a big game, but eventually fade into oblivion.
I will be happy to feed you all dyno sheets when the days come. I will watch your teeth break apart as you eat them and smile with mine as you suffer the humility of ignorance.
I will be happy to feed you all dyno sheets when the days come. I will watch your teeth break apart as you eat them and smile with mine as you suffer the humility of ignorance.
@SilversNova No hate man, it's just that we've seen people make claims like this a million times and as said before they usually amount to nothing. So the louder the voice the bigger the scepsis. I'm not even gonna ask you to prove us wrong, you build that car for non other than yourself and if you do succeed then power to you for making it all happen.
What I am proposing is not a dream. I have done a lot of research on this and have no question about its possibility.
1) There are several 300whp 13B engines out there. Naturally Aspirated. Few renesis engines for sure but they are out there.
2) There is nothing fundamentally different between the older REW engines and the MSP engines. Same size/displacement. Its mostly ports, seals, and compression. The biggest factors for NA rotaries are portting, compression, and intake/exhaust manifold setups If you correctly port a MSP engine, and pair it with a proper intake and exhasut manifold, you area already at an advantage because of the 10:1 compression ratio
3) An MSP engine with:
- Half bridge ported side ports
- Ported exhaust side prots
- Hybrid Center housings with older FC peripheral ports.
- Added PP intakes to the FC housings
- ITB's or similar intake manifold with high flow exhaust manifold/header
You add the supporting mods like Haltech ECU... There is no reason that motor setup cannot make 250whp N/a. It has all the right components, and similar 13B setups have dyno'd at 300+ WHP. The only difference is I am basing my build on a MSP engine instead of an REW or older 13B. I have CNC machine at my work and will use it to do PP and a few other things. If you do your own research. You will find that this setup is entirely possible, the power level is possible, and depending on how you do it, it may cost 10K or it might cost 5K. Lucky for me I have access to the tools I need to do most of the work myself. So I don't have to pay somebody thousands to build an engine.
Keep researching. This is a good video series, especially the part about how milling new peripheral port in housings usually leads to destroyed housings and motors. Builds like this have been done, it's not exactly a revolution. Mazdatrix had a boosted one running in their car for a while.
"for all intent and purpose, that is a feisable option" in regards to machining or PP intake/exhaust port. I have already looked into this process and am aware of the steps. You need PP intake ports to make high HP NA Numbers. You will only ruin a motor/housing through improper machining practices or implementation of PP. There are SO MANY PP Intake 13B engines out there you are blind not to see them. So I am saying, Hybrid MSP 13B and ADD PP Intake ports to really increase flow. And I am only asking for 250whp N/A!!!
@7:16 He says he hopes for 260/270/280hp N/A. That is KRM saying that! From a normal hybrid MSP Engine. I am saying "I want 250WHP from an Hybrid MSP setup WITH PP Intakes!!! You guys must be blind and dump not to see the realistic possibility, and ALREADY realized power numbers of 13B N/a Engines with PP.
You are telling me to keep researching? Why dont you actually listen to the research. You just sent me a video that confirmed what I am building and the numbers I am expecting...WOW. Noobs.
Hey mate, take it down a notch. I literally said "it's been done", and didn't tell you to stop. I said listen to the video series to do it well. You want to argue for kicks, go somewhere else.
I am not going to stay N/A... I am going to turbo it and go for 450whp on pump gas, and 550whp with water injection. I expect it to be one of the highest HP renesis engines on pump gas.
I don't doubt that he could get those numbers (on pump gas will be a struggle), but it will have poor spool and wont get close to what an REW can do. Which begs the question ...why bother?
I don't doubt that he could get those numbers (on pump gas will be a struggle), but it will have poor spool and wont get close to what an REW can do. Which begs the question ...why bother?
what makes you say that?
The REW and the MSP are so close basic design. The major differences are:
- Compression
- Ports
- intake manifold
- apex seals 2mm vs 3mm
My MSP engine is going to have PP. So the flow is going to be comparable to an REW engine. Why would an MSP engine with PP not get close to a REW engine? Big PP exhaust on the housings, a small intake PP as well. Add a few dowels and upgraded studs, the engine should support 600whp no problem. I also plan to build a custom intake manifold to support so all of these together will yield a capable MSP engine. I will admit I am a little concerned about doing 450whp on pump gas, we only have 92 octane here in Hawaii and it could be a challenge. But it will be a decent sized turbo, GT3582R or similar size, a nice tubular manifold and a short induction track. Full boost by 4K all the way to 9-9.5k is a wide enough power band for me.
The REW and the MSP are so close basic design. The major differences are:
- Compression
- Ports
- intake manifold
- apex seals 2mm vs 3mm
My MSP engine is going to have PP. So the flow is going to be comparable to an REW engine. Why would an MSP engine with PP not get close to a REW engine? Big PP exhaust on the housings, a small intake PP as well. Add a few dowels and upgraded studs, the engine should support 600whp no problem. I also plan to build a custom intake manifold to support so all of these together will yield a capable MSP engine. I will admit I am a little concerned about doing 450whp on pump gas, we only have 92 octane here in Hawaii and it could be a challenge. But it will be a decent sized turbo, GT3582R or similar size, a nice tubular manifold and a short induction track. Full boost by 4K all the way to 9-9.5k is a wide enough power band for me.
Sure it's doable................. but should you do it ? The engine will be inferior to an REW in almost every way. Inferior spool , less reliable, lower potential.
Using REW rotors will help (those are 2mm apex too BTW not 3) as the Renesis rotors are weaker and being 10:1 is a handicap. But there are issues with REW rotors in a Renesis as well.
07-26-2023, 11:56 PM
