New to RX8 Forum...Looking for advice/help
09-21-2018, 08:15 AM
#1
New to RX8 Forum...Looking for advice/help
Just Joined after reading so much on the same topic. Will it ever end? So many Starting issues with the RX8 and every story is different.
2004 RX8 6 Speed 100K Miles
My issue began with hot starting, not wanting to start after reaching operating temperature. Like going to my wally world, id park on a hill to pop start it. Or carried jumper cables to be jumped. Then I got the Flashing CEL and the car ran like crap and sounded like a Boxer motor. So it got parked.
I have been riding my motorcycle for couple months and put the RX8 on the back burner.
Its September now and getting close to winter, so Im wanting to get it reliable again.
What I have done- New SparkPlugs and MSD Wires
New Air Filter
Oil Change
I have the LS coil pack conversion- I tested the spark on the coils and found one to be inconsistent- the Front Leading coil-
Swapped that coil out.
Put a larger Newer battery in.
Added 5 Gallons of 100LL AV Gas to the tank of old fuel that had been sitting in the tank
After a few attempts, and unflooding procedure, I was able to start it. It ran but did not idle. I read on here about the Battery Dissconnect and the ECU/ECM having to relearn it all, and the 20 stomps on the brake pedal. Followed that procedure and the car idles now. Let it sit and run for 20 minutes. Took it for a 15 minute drive. Parked it and shut it off. About 2 hours later I need to run to the store, so I decide to take the RX8. And after many attempts before draining the battery, it did not want to start. No CEL
What did I do wrong? What am I missing?
Tonight I plan on cleaning the ESS and trying to remove the CAT. Those are my next moves.
I read somewhere about the Biometric pump, or Fuel pump not supplying enough pressure.
I tried to provide as much information as possible. Im just so stumped and aggravated, that after fixing the misfire and idle and it had started under its own power and drove great. After 2 hours, it doesnt want to start. Yes I tried unflooding it again, but no luck. Also it doesnt smell like it is flooded. When cranking, its so close to wanting to start but never does, I can fluctuate the throttle and it really doesnt make any difference.
2004 RX8 6 Speed 100K Miles
My issue began with hot starting, not wanting to start after reaching operating temperature. Like going to my wally world, id park on a hill to pop start it. Or carried jumper cables to be jumped. Then I got the Flashing CEL and the car ran like crap and sounded like a Boxer motor. So it got parked.
I have been riding my motorcycle for couple months and put the RX8 on the back burner.
Its September now and getting close to winter, so Im wanting to get it reliable again.
What I have done- New SparkPlugs and MSD Wires
New Air Filter
Oil Change
I have the LS coil pack conversion- I tested the spark on the coils and found one to be inconsistent- the Front Leading coil-
Swapped that coil out.
Put a larger Newer battery in.
Added 5 Gallons of 100LL AV Gas to the tank of old fuel that had been sitting in the tank
After a few attempts, and unflooding procedure, I was able to start it. It ran but did not idle. I read on here about the Battery Dissconnect and the ECU/ECM having to relearn it all, and the 20 stomps on the brake pedal. Followed that procedure and the car idles now. Let it sit and run for 20 minutes. Took it for a 15 minute drive. Parked it and shut it off. About 2 hours later I need to run to the store, so I decide to take the RX8. And after many attempts before draining the battery, it did not want to start. No CEL
What did I do wrong? What am I missing?
Tonight I plan on cleaning the ESS and trying to remove the CAT. Those are my next moves.
I read somewhere about the Biometric pump, or Fuel pump not supplying enough pressure.
I tried to provide as much information as possible. Im just so stumped and aggravated, that after fixing the misfire and idle and it had started under its own power and drove great. After 2 hours, it doesnt want to start. Yes I tried unflooding it again, but no luck. Also it doesnt smell like it is flooded. When cranking, its so close to wanting to start but never does, I can fluctuate the throttle and it really doesnt make any difference.
09-21-2018, 08:24 AM
#2
The Blue Blur
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first: welcome
second: have you read the new owners thread no really read this!
third: hot start issues are always associated with low/failing compression, have you had your compression checked? you can put a on "bandaid" in the ways of an upgraded starter.
fourth: I'm not sure how the airplane fuel would effect anything higher octane doesn't "add" power just prevents engine knock
fifth: does your car still have the catalytic converter on? they are known to get clogged and kill engines fast.
second: have you read the new owners thread no really read this!
third: hot start issues are always associated with low/failing compression, have you had your compression checked? you can put a on "bandaid" in the ways of an upgraded starter.
fourth: I'm not sure how the airplane fuel would effect anything higher octane doesn't "add" power just prevents engine knock
fifth: does your car still have the catalytic converter on? they are known to get clogged and kill engines fast.
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Dani Harris (09-21-2018)
09-21-2018, 08:26 AM
#3
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The 100LL AV gas has 1.85 grams lead per gallon - In the 70's leaded car gas was 0.5 to 0.78 per gallon - You may want to drain that gas out. It will Kill the Cat and O2 sensors. 100LL is called Low Lead because it is a lot less now than it used to be, But it is not Low Lead.
09-21-2018, 08:38 AM
#4
first: welcome
second: have you read the new owners thread no really read this!
third: hot start issues are always associated with low/failing compression, have you had your compression checked? you can put a on "bandaid" in the ways of an upgraded starter.
fourth: I'm not sure how the airplane fuel would effect anything higher octane doesn't "add" power just prevents engine knock
fifth: does your car still have the catalytic converter on? they are known to get clogged and kill engines fast.
second: have you read the new owners thread no really read this!
third: hot start issues are always associated with low/failing compression, have you had your compression checked? you can put a on "bandaid" in the ways of an upgraded starter.
fourth: I'm not sure how the airplane fuel would effect anything higher octane doesn't "add" power just prevents engine knock
fifth: does your car still have the catalytic converter on? they are known to get clogged and kill engines fast.
Didnt think the 100LL would have any effect, just being informative on everything.
Yes, I have read everything. My next steps as mentioned, are cleaning the ESS and removing the CAT.
Then would be compression check and if that is good, on to the fuel pump. Im starting from the low cost to no cost items before throwing money that might not be the issue.
I hate the fact that everyone automatically assumes bad compression. Like everyone drives their RX8 with no oil or coolant lol
Compression is the last thing im betting on.
Like I said it ran flawless after fixing the Misfire I had. The old Plugs werent that old or fouled, but replaced anyway. I believe it was just the front leading coil and a weak old battery wasnt any help.
As for a future upgrade, a newer model starter is planned.
FYI- Ive owned many rotarys before this one. 2 86 GXLs, a GTU and a Turbo 2 swaped GXL I did myself. This is my first RX8.
I only joined to maybe something I am missing at this point on the RX8, does not make sense to fix the Misfire issue. and to have it running properly and to come back after 2 hours and it wont run. Very frustrating.
So, ESS will be cleaned and CAT removed. Will post results.
Also for compression, I have very strong distinctive rotations of the rotors, sounds very healthy. You can hear the compression.
Before removing the fuel pump and testing the pressure, Im planning to change the fuel filter as it could be restricting flow.
09-21-2018, 08:45 AM
#6
The 100LL AV gas has 1.85 grams lead per gallon - In the 70's leaded car gas was 0.5 to 0.78 per gallon - You may want to drain that gas out. It will Kill the Cat and O2 sensors. 100LL is called Low Lead because it is a lot less now than it used to be, But it is not Low Lead.
Yes, you are correct. I am aware what LL stands for XD
I did not use 100LL regularly or anytime before. Just this once. Thought it wouldnt hurt, with the old fuel that had been sitting in the tank for the past few months
09-21-2018, 08:57 AM
#7
The Blue Blur
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the aviation fuel will destroy things in an engine designed to run on nonleaded fuel only and you should honestly check the compression first before throwing more money at it, the renny is different than an older 13b
ps you can "hear" compression on an engine with the apex seals missing
also check to make sure you didn't flip any of the coil or spark plug leads and all the grounds are nice and tight
ps you can "hear" compression on an engine with the apex seals missing
also check to make sure you didn't flip any of the coil or spark plug leads and all the grounds are nice and tight
09-21-2018, 09:11 AM
#8
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The reason we all recommend checking compression before doing anything else is because a $3k+ rebuild/reman is usually a huge percentage of the total value of the car. It's not hard or expensive to do and it gives you an idea of how much money you should throw at the car.
Misfires, hot idle, and hot start issues are classic symptoms of low compression.
Also, Rennies that have been treated right can still **** the bed for no good reason. Mine lasted 48K miles.
A lot of what you think you know about 13B engines needs to either be modified or thrown out.
Apex seals aren't the biggest problem. It's the side seals. Insufficient oil delivery to the inside of the rotors means the side seal springs overheat and stop being springs. Also, carbon build up locks the side seals in place. Side seal problems probably aren't as audible as apex seal problems.
Misfires, hot idle, and hot start issues are classic symptoms of low compression.
Also, Rennies that have been treated right can still **** the bed for no good reason. Mine lasted 48K miles.
A lot of what you think you know about 13B engines needs to either be modified or thrown out.
Apex seals aren't the biggest problem. It's the side seals. Insufficient oil delivery to the inside of the rotors means the side seal springs overheat and stop being springs. Also, carbon build up locks the side seals in place. Side seal problems probably aren't as audible as apex seal problems.
09-21-2018, 09:25 AM
#9
I have BHR LS Coil Packs....It only installs one way.....And the Misfire and CEL are now gone since replacing The front Leading Coil and plugs/wires.
as for leaded fuel, thats on a whole different discussion and argument. Was just stating that it was the first time using it. 5 gallons.....1.85 grams give or take a gallon, so at 5 gallons i have 9.25 grams. That is not going to ill effect anything. The lead is used more or less as a lubricant... so if anything it helped, like premixing your fuel. MHO.
As for hot start issues- it was the first signs of a failing coil? First hot start issues then to the point it misfires and i get the CEL. This was fixed. (misfire)
What is * HOT IDLE * ???
Looks like before messing with anything else like cleanig the ESS or CAT removal, my as well borrow a compression tester from my local parts store, and post results.
as for leaded fuel, thats on a whole different discussion and argument. Was just stating that it was the first time using it. 5 gallons.....1.85 grams give or take a gallon, so at 5 gallons i have 9.25 grams. That is not going to ill effect anything. The lead is used more or less as a lubricant... so if anything it helped, like premixing your fuel. MHO.
As for hot start issues- it was the first signs of a failing coil? First hot start issues then to the point it misfires and i get the CEL. This was fixed. (misfire)
What is * HOT IDLE * ???
Looks like before messing with anything else like cleanig the ESS or CAT removal, my as well borrow a compression tester from my local parts store, and post results.
09-21-2018, 09:49 AM
#10
The Blue Blur
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lead is NOT used as a lubricant in fuel it is used as an anti knock additive and will add to the already large problem of carbon build up, it will also block up fuel injectors, 02 sensors, the cat, any and all internal seals, etc.
and yes you could have messed up the install of the bhr ignition system or swap one of the wires from spark to coil, or messed up the grounds. I'm not saying that you did I'm saying that its possible and you should check it
and cleaning the ESS is alot more of a project than you think it is, you will need to buy replacement coolant to do the job properly
and yes you could have messed up the install of the bhr ignition system or swap one of the wires from spark to coil, or messed up the grounds. I'm not saying that you did I'm saying that its possible and you should check it
and cleaning the ESS is alot more of a project than you think it is, you will need to buy replacement coolant to do the job properly
09-21-2018, 10:12 AM
#11
Thank you for your input.
Ive already went over the details on servicing the ESS. literally one bolt and plug to remove. My stock airbox is removed already with the use of a aftermarket air cleaner. So relatively easy to access. Why would coolant be a issue lol are we talking about the same thing here? The Eccentric Shaft Sensor bolted next to the bottom Eccentric Shaft pulley???? Why would I be messing with any coolant ? Im not removing the radiator to get to it.
Ive already went over the details on servicing the ESS. literally one bolt and plug to remove. My stock airbox is removed already with the use of a aftermarket air cleaner. So relatively easy to access. Why would coolant be a issue lol are we talking about the same thing here? The Eccentric Shaft Sensor bolted next to the bottom Eccentric Shaft pulley???? Why would I be messing with any coolant ? Im not removing the radiator to get to it.
09-21-2018, 10:14 AM
#13
The Blue Blur
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yea my mistake friday brain fart I was thinking of the SSV instead of the ESS
09-21-2018, 10:31 AM
#14
no problemo...... But ESS cleaning wouldnt hurt, it really only effects ill idle.....which isnt my issue.
Just cant wrap my brain around what couldve happened. Rotarys. I told myself after selling my last rx7 i would never own a rotary again...HAH
Just cant wrap my brain around what couldve happened. Rotarys. I told myself after selling my last rx7 i would never own a rotary again...HAH
09-21-2018, 10:39 AM
#15
The Blue Blur
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I normally just reach up while doing an oil change and wipe off the ESS. Yup wankels are an addiction 
some other things to look for would be a vac leak, you said you had an aftermarket intake, which one? were all the lines plugged properly, have you had all the recalls done? the one involving the gas tank oring/pump has been known to have "issues" after a dealership botched the install.
anywho you have enough things to check out, do some wrenching this weekend and report back, good luck
some other things to look for would be a vac leak, you said you had an aftermarket intake, which one? were all the lines plugged properly, have you had all the recalls done? the one involving the gas tank oring/pump has been known to have "issues" after a dealership botched the install.
anywho you have enough things to check out, do some wrenching this weekend and report back, good luck
09-21-2018, 11:48 AM
#16
Smoking turbo yay
Why would anyone use leaded fuel nowadays... I am surprised they even sell them.
The only 3 air intakes you should use on this car are the OEM, Mazdaspeed/AEM and Revi from Racing Beat. Everything else belongs in the garbage. And yes, the OEM intake is really good and the best value of the three options.
As for compression, if this is a piston car, yes, compression will be pretty low on the list, but for the rotary, compression test is the first thing to be done. In fact, you should have checked it before purchase.
The only 3 air intakes you should use on this car are the OEM, Mazdaspeed/AEM and Revi from Racing Beat. Everything else belongs in the garbage. And yes, the OEM intake is really good and the best value of the three options.
As for compression, if this is a piston car, yes, compression will be pretty low on the list, but for the rotary, compression test is the first thing to be done. In fact, you should have checked it before purchase.
09-21-2018, 01:14 PM
#17
why would anyone use leaded fuel nowadays... I am surprised they even sell them.
The only 3 air intakes you should use on this car are the oem, mazdaspeed/aem and revi from racing beat. Everything else belongs in the garbage. And yes, the oem intake is really good and the best value of the three options.
As for compression, if this is a piston car, yes, compression will be pretty low on the list, but for the rotary, compression test is the first thing to be done. In fact, you should have checked it before purchase.
The only 3 air intakes you should use on this car are the oem, mazdaspeed/aem and revi from racing beat. Everything else belongs in the garbage. And yes, the oem intake is really good and the best value of the three options.
As for compression, if this is a piston car, yes, compression will be pretty low on the list, but for the rotary, compression test is the first thing to be done. In fact, you should have checked it before purchase.
lol
09-21-2018, 01:27 PM
#18
Actually I still have in the glove box the letter for the recall on the fuel pump seal. Now that car isnt able start, cant really get it to the stealership. Even if i did take it to them and they replaced it, you think that its the issue?
Not exactly what I was looking for.............
I had hot start issues a week prior to the Misfire and CEL. Tested coils and found that the front leading coil was bad. Replaced it, along with new plugs and wires. One at a time to insure they are in the correct order. Put a newer bigger battery in. And it started right up under its own power. Had to do the Battery Disconnect Procedure for the ECU to remap itself and idle. Sat running for 20 mins. I hoped in and drove it around town for about 15 mins. Red lined flawlessly. No hesitation, not stumbling. Idled perfect when coming to quick stop. Parked it for 2 hours. Came back and it would not start. Compression just gone all of a sudden?
The intake is oem except for the filter is all. A Oem replacement filter from the parts dealer was $80.....yea right. Replaced with washable K&N cone.
The Maf was cleaned during this replacement, the oem design sent blow back oil into the intake, oil was all over it....just why is that still a thing. its a terrible design. Sucking in engine bay heat...blah blah blah. Not here to discuss intakes.
Yes everything was fastened securely after removal to get to the coils.
But if any of that was a issue the car wouldnt of started easly and ran just fine until parked.
Im leaning more towards the fuel pump. Especially if the recall has a play on this.
Not exactly what I was looking for.............
I had hot start issues a week prior to the Misfire and CEL. Tested coils and found that the front leading coil was bad. Replaced it, along with new plugs and wires. One at a time to insure they are in the correct order. Put a newer bigger battery in. And it started right up under its own power. Had to do the Battery Disconnect Procedure for the ECU to remap itself and idle. Sat running for 20 mins. I hoped in and drove it around town for about 15 mins. Red lined flawlessly. No hesitation, not stumbling. Idled perfect when coming to quick stop. Parked it for 2 hours. Came back and it would not start. Compression just gone all of a sudden?
The intake is oem except for the filter is all. A Oem replacement filter from the parts dealer was $80.....yea right. Replaced with washable K&N cone.
The Maf was cleaned during this replacement, the oem design sent blow back oil into the intake, oil was all over it....just why is that still a thing. its a terrible design. Sucking in engine bay heat...blah blah blah. Not here to discuss intakes.
Yes everything was fastened securely after removal to get to the coils.
But if any of that was a issue the car wouldnt of started easly and ran just fine until parked.
Im leaning more towards the fuel pump. Especially if the recall has a play on this.
09-21-2018, 01:38 PM
#19
Smoking turbo yay
Wouldn't be the fuel pump if you can pull to redline just fine, otherwise you would stumble real bad.
An 8 can drive fine but can still have low compression. It will feel okay until grandma's Corolla flies past you.
Where I live, OEM replacement is CAN$35. Mazmart sells the OEM filter for US$23.
Be wary of the K&N filter. Over oil it and you can fry your MAF, and it doesn't filter nearly as well in general.
An 8 can drive fine but can still have low compression. It will feel okay until grandma's Corolla flies past you.
Where I live, OEM replacement is CAN$35. Mazmart sells the OEM filter for US$23.
Be wary of the K&N filter. Over oil it and you can fry your MAF, and it doesn't filter nearly as well in general.
09-21-2018, 01:39 PM
#20
As you say, you're new and looking advice.
So, a few points: how did you install a cone filter in a place not designed for a cone intake, and do you think it could have been done in a way that upsets the airflow over the MAF? Because MANY people have made that mistake, and it will affect the car's ability to idle. Easy test is to return to stock and see if it's better.
Second, oil in the intake. The problem isn't the design, healthy RX8s don't get oil in the intake, or ingest hot air. The intake starts in the bumper. The problem is your engine is barfing oil which is NOT a good sign. The combined symptoms of poor hot start and oil in the intake points to your engine being on last legs. How it runs at speed is irrelevant. For one, you're new to the car, so you don't have a sense of how it should run, and 2, rotaries don't really lose high-rpm performance as they wear, they lose starting performance.
It's possible that your fuel pump has also failed, that happens (sometimes suddenly). Easy enough to test, turn the car to ON and see if you can hear the pump. You don't need much pressure or flow to start the car if everything else is healthy.
So as has been recommended, you REALLY need a compression test to decide what you want to do with the car.
So, a few points: how did you install a cone filter in a place not designed for a cone intake, and do you think it could have been done in a way that upsets the airflow over the MAF? Because MANY people have made that mistake, and it will affect the car's ability to idle. Easy test is to return to stock and see if it's better.
Second, oil in the intake. The problem isn't the design, healthy RX8s don't get oil in the intake, or ingest hot air. The intake starts in the bumper. The problem is your engine is barfing oil which is NOT a good sign. The combined symptoms of poor hot start and oil in the intake points to your engine being on last legs. How it runs at speed is irrelevant. For one, you're new to the car, so you don't have a sense of how it should run, and 2, rotaries don't really lose high-rpm performance as they wear, they lose starting performance.
It's possible that your fuel pump has also failed, that happens (sometimes suddenly). Easy enough to test, turn the car to ON and see if you can hear the pump. You don't need much pressure or flow to start the car if everything else is healthy.
So as has been recommended, you REALLY need a compression test to decide what you want to do with the car.
Last edited by Loki; 09-21-2018 at 01:46 PM.
09-21-2018, 02:04 PM
#21
New? (new to the RX8 Forum) (Im part of the RX7 Forum) Ive owned my RX8 for going on 4 years now. Ive owned a few RX7s before.
Im looking for something I am missing. Ive went over everything/troubleshooting
Please stop talking about the irrelevant intake cone I installed nearly 4 years ago lmao.
At the time that I purchased it, they filter needed to be replaced. Wasnt going to spend $80 for one, I had a K&N cone filter already. Removed the OEM air box completely. So hence it sucks in engine bay heat vs the oem design from the front bumper. When replacing the filter I noticed the oil residue and build up in the intake and on the MAF. The car is 14 years old, when I got it, it was 10 years old. so 10 years of oil build up, would not consider this as the Engine barfing up oil. By design I mean literally every vehicle has the Crank pressure relief feed back into the intake.(Not saying the Rotary has a crankcase) and over time oil residue will build up. A vehicle that wont do this is one that is equipped with a catch can.
Filter is cleaned along with the routine oil changes. I have not had anymore oil build up like that again since.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ____________________________________
1 week prior to CEL/Misfire....I had the hot start issue. Replaced the bad Coil. Fixed. Car ran as it should. Now it wont start? I never had cold start issue. Everything has been looked over now, to see if something has come undone do to the process of changing the coil out.
Tried starting and this time could smell fuel. Now its flooded.
I just cant believe it would go from good to bad just like that.
On the list to do as of now......Compression check..........fuel pressure test.........Remove CAT........Clean ESS
I will post results asap
Im looking for something I am missing. Ive went over everything/troubleshooting
Please stop talking about the irrelevant intake cone I installed nearly 4 years ago lmao.
At the time that I purchased it, they filter needed to be replaced. Wasnt going to spend $80 for one, I had a K&N cone filter already. Removed the OEM air box completely. So hence it sucks in engine bay heat vs the oem design from the front bumper. When replacing the filter I noticed the oil residue and build up in the intake and on the MAF. The car is 14 years old, when I got it, it was 10 years old. so 10 years of oil build up, would not consider this as the Engine barfing up oil. By design I mean literally every vehicle has the Crank pressure relief feed back into the intake.(Not saying the Rotary has a crankcase) and over time oil residue will build up. A vehicle that wont do this is one that is equipped with a catch can.
Filter is cleaned along with the routine oil changes. I have not had anymore oil build up like that again since.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ____________________________________
1 week prior to CEL/Misfire....I had the hot start issue. Replaced the bad Coil. Fixed. Car ran as it should. Now it wont start? I never had cold start issue. Everything has been looked over now, to see if something has come undone do to the process of changing the coil out.
Tried starting and this time could smell fuel. Now its flooded.
I just cant believe it would go from good to bad just like that.
On the list to do as of now......Compression check..........fuel pressure test.........Remove CAT........Clean ESS
I will post results asap
Last edited by Dani Harris; 09-21-2018 at 02:06 PM.
09-21-2018, 05:27 PM
#22
What am I doing here?
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Why are you pricing parts from a dealer? You can get an OEM air filter for like $20.
https://www.mazdaswag.com/oem-parts/...ot-n3h113z409u
Oil residue on the filter element means a lot more oil than normal is getting puked up the breather hoses. Either the oil was overfilled or a side seal has bought the farm.
https://www.mazdaswag.com/oem-parts/...ot-n3h113z409u
Oil residue on the filter element means a lot more oil than normal is getting puked up the breather hoses. Either the oil was overfilled or a side seal has bought the farm.
10-12-2018, 11:06 AM
#23
Okay, let me say that I hate the fact the Rotary community always points straight at Low Compression.........not saying it should not be checked, its just whenever someone has starting issues rough idle n such. someone is quick to blurt out- low compression, your engine is blown.
A compression test using a standard compression tester was conducted in leading to incunclusive results......meaning it was slightly below from factory spec/ well within tolerance.
Found that the oil residue is years worth of blow back buildup- not a result of blown seals or over filled oil. I removed the entire upper intake and cleaned all oil residue and had to really put some elbow grease on the throttle body around the butterfly valve
Bigger battery installed and cleaned connections along with chassis grounds
Checked my new spark plugs to see if they were fouled, and they wernt.....also purchased spark plug cleaner from harbor freight which will come in handy in the future, works very good. check it out
Decided to pull my exhaust down and clean the cat/ gut it. Plan to replace with new catless exhaust
Was able to clean the very dirty ESS off easily. With the oem air box removed, very easy to reach from above.
Ran some SeaFoam through the vaccum ports on the lower intake. let it set overnight and then ran it.
As of now I do not have the Hot Start Issue or Cold Start
Runs as it should, no missfires, hesitations,sluggish, dieing, bruping, farting etc....
But I will say this, my starter must be on its last leg, its worn out, its the factory starter. It does turn the engine over, but after watching others videos on the difference of the starters, i can tell my is worn. Instead of firing within a second or 2, mine drags along for about 5 seconds. To me its not a big deal, it still fires right up.
Im still at a loss from my first post,
I knew i had a failing coil, with the hot start issue starting to become a issue and then i had a misfire along with the misfire CEL.
Tested the coils and found the one that was Bad. Replaced it and new plugs. Bigger battery too. Found out about the 20 foot stomps on the brake pedal to reset the ECU and let learn its idle and fuel maps n such. Then literally 3-4 hours later wouldnt start????? Still do not know what contrubuted to that.
Im guessing how dirty the ESS was.
Either way good stuff, now i can get back to working on my s13
A compression test using a standard compression tester was conducted in leading to incunclusive results......meaning it was slightly below from factory spec/ well within tolerance.
Found that the oil residue is years worth of blow back buildup- not a result of blown seals or over filled oil. I removed the entire upper intake and cleaned all oil residue and had to really put some elbow grease on the throttle body around the butterfly valve
Bigger battery installed and cleaned connections along with chassis grounds
Checked my new spark plugs to see if they were fouled, and they wernt.....also purchased spark plug cleaner from harbor freight which will come in handy in the future, works very good. check it out
Decided to pull my exhaust down and clean the cat/ gut it. Plan to replace with new catless exhaust
Was able to clean the very dirty ESS off easily. With the oem air box removed, very easy to reach from above.
Ran some SeaFoam through the vaccum ports on the lower intake. let it set overnight and then ran it.
As of now I do not have the Hot Start Issue or Cold Start
Runs as it should, no missfires, hesitations,sluggish, dieing, bruping, farting etc....
But I will say this, my starter must be on its last leg, its worn out, its the factory starter. It does turn the engine over, but after watching others videos on the difference of the starters, i can tell my is worn. Instead of firing within a second or 2, mine drags along for about 5 seconds. To me its not a big deal, it still fires right up.
Im still at a loss from my first post,
I knew i had a failing coil, with the hot start issue starting to become a issue and then i had a misfire along with the misfire CEL.
Tested the coils and found the one that was Bad. Replaced it and new plugs. Bigger battery too. Found out about the 20 foot stomps on the brake pedal to reset the ECU and let learn its idle and fuel maps n such. Then literally 3-4 hours later wouldnt start????? Still do not know what contrubuted to that.
Im guessing how dirty the ESS was.
Either way good stuff, now i can get back to working on my s13
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