Any lights on the dash? How old are the ignition coils?Any modifications? I cam think of a few causes but need more info.

 

 

Ok well step one, remove the K&N hot air intake and go back to stock or AEM/Racing Beat. A number of people have experienced incorrect MAF sensor readings because of aftermarket intakes that don't straighten the airflow properly. K&N chief among them.

Secondary air injection or secondary shutter valve? Those are different things, and your symptoms sound more like that latter. Look up "SSV testing and cleaning"

Ignition coils: if you don't know, get new ones. Bad ones kill engines.

Does the car still have a functioning catalytic converter?

 

Secondary air injection, i'm sure that says. Catalytic converter it's on the car but i'don't know if it's working, maybe is plugged?

 

Does anyone have an OEM catalytic converter that fits this car?

 

I know Im new to the discussion group but I had some noob questions. I don't know how to start my own discussion group so helping would be much appreciated.
I had a friend who owned a 2005 Rx8 and I fell in love with it and helped him fix it and sell it before he went to the Naval Academy. Its been a few months now and I found another Rx8 that I was thinking of buying, fixing, and selling to make some money for college. It is a 2004 Mazda Rx-8 with 110,000 miles automatic transmission for $800. The guy said it has a cracked radiator and needs new seals in the engine (Im guessing he's talking about Apex Seals). I was wondering if it would be a good idea to buy it, replace the seals (Apex Seals?) and radiator and sell it? My girlfriends little brother is really into Rx-8's and I was thinking about selling it to him. Would it be a good buy? Thanks in advance!

 

This isn't the car for that kind of job. You can't just replaced apex seals like they are head gaskets or something easy. Doing a budget/backyard rebuild is an option, but if you are selling it to someone you know, I sure hope you can sleep well at night.

A new reman engine alone will cost you $3k from a dealer. You'd be hard pressed to find anyone who's willing to pay $3k for an early automatic RX-8. Those things go for dirt cheap for a reason.

Flipping an old Corolla is more profitable IMO.

 

The 2004-2005 automatics are the lowest power, least reliable, least desirable ones. So if you have to fix one, I wouldn't pick that one.

 

The BEST breakdown on RX 8's "need to knows" , I have only 6 more times to read and will do!!!
THANKS Billt

 

Early autos had a 4-port motor. Rebuilds/remans for those are actually $1000-$2000 more expensive than the 6-port motors (all MT, 2006+ AT).

 

Long time rotary car owner, have had 3 rx7, still own 1. I recently purchased a manual 40th anniversary with 66,400 miles on it. The car had one owner and all services done by Mazda.

I just changed the tranny lube to Redline mt90, Will be doing an oil change and the rear end with Redline 70/90, I want to flush and replace the coolant hopefully next weekend. I have some concerns but is more like paranoia, I can't hear the cooling fans come on, granted I've only driven the car hard a few times for short periods, just to stretch her legs, temp hasn't moved from 3/8s doesn't even come close to half temp, are the fans normally that quiet on low speed? I'm used to my 2nd gen rx7 clutch fan that will blow your hat off when you stick your head in the engine bay while the car is running.

Now I've looked for what coolants were recommended, Fl22 is a must , has anyone here used ravenol Fl22 coolant? I haven't checked the local Mazda dealer for OEM fl22. Ravenol can be ordered from Amazon and is concetrate.

Here's a pic of the new toy!

 

Hi there! Long time member here but didn't get to buy an RX-8 when I was seriously looking for my first car.

Anyway, it looks like I found the perfect car. 2010 RX-8 R3, with 30k kms. I'm just waiting for the compression test results and I'll drive 400kms to buy it.

The car is Certified Pre-Owned by a Mazda Dealership but what does that actually mean for me?

Also, should I get an Extended Warranty? Comprehensive was quoted at $3,400.00 Canadian. Engine rebuilds as far as I know go somewhere between $3k - $5k.

Thanks!

 

I doubt it's actually "Certified Pre-Owned" ("CPO"). Mazda's CPO program offers 7yr/140k km powertrain warranty measured from the initial new-car sales date. This car is 10 years old which mean that it's already outside of that.
https://cpo.mazda.ca/en/home/

If it is actually CPO, it would still do nothing for you.

 

Yeah, the salesman told be because of the year I'll have to get an extended warranty.

However, I'm more concerned about what a CPO means in terms of the car's status. Like, does it mean the factory refurbish it since they're Mazda dealership?

 

Most (all?) manufacturers have a program where their dealers can take their cars that meet certain criteria (years, mileage, clean title, no accidents) and do a "thorough 999-point inspection". If everything checks out, the dealer pays the manufacturer a fee to "certify" the car. Cars that are certified carry an extended factory warranty (sometimes with a deductible, sometimes without), roadside assistance and other things that help sell cars. The dealer can then mark the cars up a bit to cover their expenses (and add on a little profit padding) for the certification process.

The car you are looking at is not CPO, regardless what the dealer is telling you.

 

Almost all Extended warranties are worthless. You have the data right in front of you. The engines are dirt cheap to replace compared to other cars, and lots of people are buying them for what the warranty costs. The warranty is priced at the approx cost of rebuilt engine swap.

 

Compression Test Result:
@250RPM
Rotor 1: 730, 730, 730 kPa
Rotor 2: 750, 730, 750 kPa

Unsure if this was 344m altitude but if it was adjusted to sea level, it gets better to around 780 range.
Anyway, the car I'm looking at is factory stock 2010 R3 with 37k kms on it.

I thought that getting the extended comprehensive warranty might be a good idea because it's cheaper than what an engine rebuild cost would be when I shopped around for it ($7k - $9k). Plus it covers additional items.

Dealer would send me the warranty contract today to peruse (PDF of Insurance Brochure). I just want to make sure that it covers the engine so that I don't get screwed over. Force-Fed told me to have it in writing that if the Apex Seals break and fail, that the labor and parts, and everything is covered. I will be under the "Plus" warranty, from what I've been told this is the same company they use to underwrite their Mazda Warranty - not sure what that means.

Any comments on that warranty package would be appreciated as I'm potentially buying this car tomorrow. Salesman was also willing to put it in writing that the piston parts will be equivalent to the rotary parts in terms of warranty.

Edit 1: Added warranty brochure
Edit 2: Added Compression Test Results

 

Here's some math.

I was paying $700 or $800 a year for full insurance coverage of accidents, fire, hail, etc.

My 8 is 07 6speed auto with 34k miles and perfect shape with all the durabilty mods like BHR IGN < FUEL PUMP, and B12 Bilstein shocks.

Approx 2 years ago when I sensed it was worth $10k or less I dropped all insurance except liability which is about $400/year.

No way would I pay $3500 to protect engine or even car.....Both are pretty much disposable.

Your engine test looks very even.... Be sure to put 1/2 oz of synthetic 2 stroke oil FD in every gallon gas going into tank.

Never let it get hot, and it might go for several more years.

NOPE! IT SAYS PISTON PARTS, so no matter what the salesman says, he's scamming you.

 

If you are looking to save on insurance, and it is a second car, check classic car insurance from Hagerty.....

 

Did a rebuild on my rx8 this being my first rotary work not sure if it will cause damage. I kept everything together in order but a buddy was messing with stuff now and he might have flipped my rotors will it hurt to run the rear in the front housing and vise versa I'm about to install the engine and don't want to pull it apart to make sure it didn't get flipped. Thanks in advance.

 

I would be safe than sorry. Double check your work before you run it and possibly cause damage.

 

Do it right or do it twice :/

 

I have a 2008 RX8 that I purchased with 17k miles in 2011.
It now has just over 100k and I have had some modifications made.
The last guy who worked on my car put the plugs in wrong L/T,T/L.
I was having misfire issues and power lag at 5.2k rpms.
I have corrected the plug issue myself and I am in the middle
of replacing all 3 solenoids. I have the UIM off , but I can’t disconnect
the solenoids. I don’t want to break them, how do you get the three
colored connectors out.

Thanks

 

I recently rebuilt my engine and I machined custom fuel rails for myself with a feed line for Nitrous and it doesn't have a fuel pressure regulator on it; as the regulator is hard mounted to the primary fuel rail and there is no way to remove and transfer it on the custom ones. Does anyone have any suggestions on what regulator to get because I have yet to find one that is returnless, in-line and is in the proper pressure range for the rx8 injectors?