jakejm79

I'm only 5'7" so no worries on the headroom. Thank you I will check out that website. If would have to be a very special car at a special deal to make passing on the moonroof an option.
Yes I figured that adding a roof wouldn't be visible based on the roof line, plus I've been involved with those aftermarket roofs before and its never pretty.

Motakai

If you really wanted the sunroof, I'd recommend only passing it up on a GT if you found a Sweet deal on a R3 package Rx8. If you aren't aware of what that entails, read this:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mazda_RX-8#R3
Mind you they don't have seat warmers, but might be able to take aftermarket ones.

jakejm79

Well maybe I'll just go all the way and get a Spirit R lol.
Thank you for the advice on autotempest, I did realize one thing, for text based searches RX8 isn't the same as RX-8, tho all this had lead me to discover is that RX-8 sellers are more out of touch than RX8 sellers.
How can so many people misplace or lose their recent good compression test results and I'm pretty sure that, "I don't have receipts for the rebuild because my friend just threw in some seals" doesn't qualify as a legitimate rebuild.
/rant

gwilliams6

Motakai, as a 6ft 3 in guy I find a comfortable driving/sitting position in my S1 40th Anniversary Edition RX8 with the moonroof. I can't fit in the recaro seats of my friend's S2 R3 RX8, much too narrow and confining.

Since I am NOT tracking this car,like I did in some of my past six other RXs, I too wanted the moonroof. I find the light and air it can let in really opens up the RX8 interior, and helps brighten my already bright disposition when I drive it. Cheers

Motakai

Personally, I've never really liked sunroofs in any car I've been in so far... mainly due to the fact that by seeing the gaping hole in the roof I'm reminded that the chassis isn't as stiff and strong as it could be..
Edit: and I always get the feeling that it's not been closed properly whenever I'm in bad weather.

UnknownJinX

I like moonroof when the weather is good. I would have got a convertible, but I cannot find a convertible car I can have for now.

It might bite me in the *** when I go helmet shopping, though. We will see.

My moonroof never leaks. Nor did the Accord one. My roommate's Volvo 940 Turbo sunroof leaks and he has to seal it shut with silicone for now, but that's also a 27-year-old car we are talking about here.

gwilliams6

Never had any problem with moonroofs in any of my Mazdas. Had a Toyota one that leaked many years ago.

When I bought my 2008 Mazdaspeed3 GT there was NO factory moonroof available in the Mazdspeed3 GT. I had my dealership put in the moonroof from the standard Mazda 3 before my car was delivered, and it worked great and never leaked. (Yes I paid for it to be done) Probably the only Mazdaspeed3 GT in the country with a "factory" moonroof. Drew lots of stares of disbelief at car meets .

I am in the process of moving from New Jersey to Grapevine, Texas and my external hard drives are packed up. When I can get to them again I will post shots of my Mazdaspeed3 GT with its moonroof, alongside my 40th Anniversary edition RX8 and its moonroof. I sold the Mazdaspeed3 GT a few years ago. The exclusive moonroof helped me sell it. Cheers

gwilliams6

I found one shot. i had better closeups on my packed external hard drives, but at least you can see the moonroof on my Mazdaspeed3 GT, an exclusive ! Cheers

jakejm79

So buying one is proving much more difficult than I thought, maybe I am way off base on my budget/valuation of cars, but it seems that people are asking a ridiculous amount for RX8s (and I know excellent examples are rare-ish and will command a bit of a premium).

My budget is in the $6000-8000 mark, I figured for that I could find a reasonable condition S1 (Touring or GT) with maybe around 50K (give or take and again higher miles with recent well documented rebuild or replacement would also be acceptable).
I'm finding people asking $6000 for cars with rebuilt titles, compression numbers indicating a fail on Mazda's scale and no real maintenance history.

Alternatively I'm getting multi owner cars in supposedly excellently maintained condition with around 50K but no compression test results (I would obviously get one done, my feeling is if you are going to ask for a premium for the vehicle and are stating it has excellent compression because it runs fine and you took care of it then maybe you should have some hard and fast figures to back it up) asking for $9000+. I know the book value is probably a little soft on these cars (and just a guide at that) but double book value just because it hasn't been confirmed it needs a rebuild and you have a handful of receipts - give me a break.

I found a handful of what I consider reasonable cars (both in terms of condition and price) but I seem to be facing what I guess would be unmotivated sellers (I've had numerous appointments that just get canceled or no call backs to confirm) or at the mere mention of compression test (even ones that claim to have good compression) and the sellers disappear like I have insulted a loved one.

I know every car varies but am I way out of the ball park here? I'm willing to travel for the right car, but travel costs come out of the same budget (i.e. its more appealing to spend $8K on a car around here vs. buying the same car in FL for $7K and spending $1K on travel costs, each car has a net cost of $8K but much easier to buy local).

HELP, lol.

Motakai

Mmmm. No, it sounds pretty reasonable for an s1 in decent condition. It is more likely your finding uneducated or dealership sellers. I've seen r3's go for 8-10k down there. Be patient (even more) the one you want Will come by. I had to wait 3 months for the R3 I have right now to pop up.
If you can't get service records but you find one that you like, finangle the VIN off of the seller and go to a Mazda dealer. Ask for copies of the service records. Anything done by Mazda usa to the car will show up.

jakejm79

Thanks Motakai, yes I thought I was being pretty reasonable. Most are private party sellers (TBH most of the 'dealer' sellers are just used car lots that are throwing a bucket of water over it offering no warranty and then claiming they should get dealer retail for it - so I tend to just give those a pass).
Yes I have already emailed and called Mazda on a couple of possible vehicles to get some history.
I'll keep trying to be patient, I know the right car is out there at the right price, just have to get the sellers to commit to actively trying to sell it.

Motakai

If you're truly desperate, buy a s2 rolling chassis for under or at 2k, and put a motor in it. (I really, really don't recommend this as it has the extreme chance of having huge unexpected costs...)

ASH8

As a "General Rule" I suggest you either know or learn what a well maintained rotary engine sounds and more importantly performs like (ie an engine with good compression's).

IF you take one for test drive once hot take it for a full Rev Out a few times, does it feel slow (long time to build up RPM) and after you have taking it for a thrashing turn it off, wait for 5 minutes and then try and start it, how long does it take to fire up when hot? (also be aware a dull old battery/poor coils can have the same hard starting effect).

This is a guide only as an engine can still have one bad rotor and perform reasonably well, so yes a proper RE compression test is the only way to be certain.

jakejm79

Thanks ASH8, I worked at a Mazda dealer in the mid 2000s and drove 8s on a regular basis, so I know what a new good one should drive like (but it has been a while). I have already walked away from one that didn't sound/feel right but I also know its not a definitive test and also something as simple as old plugs or coils could have a large impact on things too.

Thanks Motakai, not that desperate yet, I have another car so really am in no rush, I just would like to start enjoying something sooner rather than later.

Motakai

(ASH8) I will state, as much as you guys on here use the RE specific compression test as an engine health standard, it's most certainly not the most important thing to do, nor the be-all end-all of a rotary. Certainly it let's you know how much power & gas mileage you should expect the engine to have (And to a small given standard, very very rough estimate of life left)....
But it'l never tell you if you have consistent oil contamination, or that one of the ES bearings is about to give (an oil particulate examination would), or that the housings are scarred or choked with carbon, or that you have oil line rot, or you have failing coils, or that you have gas tank contamination, or you have hidden undercarriage rot, or that the differential STILL is using the original oil. The real problem in these is by the time compression is dropping, it's too late. What a majority of the people here don't seem to understand is that low/dropping compression is an EFFECT of something else in the motor not doing it's job properly, and unless that problem is immediately remedied (Usually with a full tear down to find it, it only gets worse.)
Often up here in Canada, I've seen Renisis motors with 250,000 kms on them, running no worse for wear until the likes of 300k
(Usualy OMP failure, Overheating and warping of housings caused by hard driving, Over revving and Bad ignition components causing the cat to fail and kill the motor with backpressure or, a rotary incompetent driver (Carbon buildup/Running the motor dry of oil)) Is what gets them by then up here.
A compression test lets you know your motor is fucked for sure, and leaves you asking the question of "But why?"
While leaving you with no other knowledge about the car's history.
Service records and a Test drive + hot start will let you know more than a comp test will ever tell you.
EDIT: Unless of course, you don't have the required experience to be able to tell when they're not going right.....

Loki

iTrader: (1)

A compression test AND a test drive / inspection gives you information to avoid buying problems. I don't think anyone is arguing a potential owner shouldn't test drive their options.

jakejm79

Thank you for the insight Motaka, I certainly wasn't inferring that a compression test was the be all and end all, just that it would be used as a tool to help determine the overall health/life of the engine, ONCE I had settled on one that ran/started like it should from an owner that could demonstrate that the vehicle has been well maintained, etc. Also I think it would be helpful both in determining the honesty and knowledge of the current owner - If the owner objects to a compression test on their car that they claim has perfect compression and no issues, then maybe they aren't being honest (purposely or not) about the condition and maybe they can't be trusted about other statements regarding the condition of the car. Also it maybe points to their knowledge (or lack of) with regards to the rotary, if they feel its something that isn't reasonable to ask and aren't willing to accommodate it then maybe they don't understand the importance of maintaining a rotary. I'm sure no one here would begrudge a prospective buyer asking to get a compression test to confirm what the seller is saying especially if I offered to pay for it.

Motakai

Wasn't refering to you Jake, was talking about ASH8's statement. "Is the only way to be certain" makes it sound like the end-all be-all......
Main reason why I believe the compression test is not totally reliable is that there have been plenty of examples of Renisis motors brought back from failing (Decreasing rapidly) compression. When this motor is well maintained and even when for periods where the neglect is harsh but not catastrophic in nature and results, they have proven to bring the same life as high performance piston engines (Say 200k Kms- 380ish Kms) (125k - 235k miles) Bottom end being beaten on and top end being held dear from day one.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Hey man, this thread is for new owners to ask specific questions. If you have a particular belief, start a thread with supporting evidence, and we can beat the horse there.

jakejm79

So I am back with my first actual owner's question:
About AKE and the trunk (sadly despite a bunch of maintenance records, etc the owners manual was missing since I suspect it may have held the answer).
Currently I have just one AKE card key, it has 3 buttons on it (lock, unlock and panic, I am not sure its original to the car tho), everything appears to work normally (door button unlocks, locks doors, car can be started fine, no warning lights), but how do I get in the trunk, other than removing the emergency key blade or opening the drivers door and hitting the button, or are those the only ways?
I've read there is an antenna under the rear bumper for the AKE system but I have failed to find a button like on the door handles.

Secondly since I only have the one card key, I was planning on getting a second key, can I use a combination of card keys and switchblade keys at the same time, i.e. I can get a switch blade key for about $20 on ebay and it appears I can program the transponder chip part of the key (so it will allow starting the car) with FORScan (even with just one currently programmed key) and then obviously I should be able to DIY the remote portion of the key. This seems like a cheaper alternative compared buying a used card key (~$50) and then paying a dealer to program (FORScan doesn't appear to support programming the AKE system). So basically is the AKE system backwardly compatible with the standard remote/transponder system.

I did search but while I found all the info on programming keys, nothing definitive about mixing and matching systems and also everything trunk related was mostly to do with the trunk release not working (mine works fine, I just am in the new dumb owner part and not aware of the exact way it should operate).

Thank you, car is a 2007 GT.

UnknownJinX

On my S2, there is a trunk button on the AKE key.

As for the proximity button, duck down and look above the license plate. It should be close to the right side.

Motakai

Congratulations dude! There should be 4 buttons, 3 if the Ake card is aftermarket. Would honestly recommend going to the dealer and dropping 200-300$ for 2 actual Mazda Ake cards and blades. It's what I got quoted. I'll post a pic of what it should look like later

jakejm79

I'm pretty sure the AKE card isn't original to the car but I believe it is a genuine Mazda one, the prior owner worked at Mazda dealer and I believe when he started having issues with the original AKE card key he 'stole' one from a lease return or something and it was likely for a car that didn't have a trunk release.
Good to know on the 4 buttons, when I get a replacement I will make sure it has 4 buttons, for the time being I think I'm going to roll the dice and try to also add a switch blade key so I at least have a cheap backup.

Thanks Jinx, I shall examine the area, I figured there was a button hidden somewhere I just didn't know where to start.

Thanks Motakai, In the next day or few I'll post a full introduction on it once I have it cleaned up 100% (its good but not new car perfect). But here is a taster:
2007 RX8 Grand Touring Phantom Blue Mica with Sand Interior, 50K same family owned for all but the first year 11K of its life, said family worked in the service dept of a Mazda dealer and kept it fully maintained there.
Oh and it appears to pretty much unmolested, no CAI, stock exhaust, even the engine cover is still there. Also bottom end of my budget and was only 30 minutes from me.

Motakai

Wowsers, it's pretty nice! (Late model s1 gt with 6 speed?) I think you may have gotten a nice score here what with it's history!

jakejm79

Yes 07 with 6 speed manual.
It came down to this a 04 with 50K also and similar history (but that was 3 hours away), a 04 with 27K in red but only a Touring and was all the way in NYC (plus I was having a hard time getting the owner to commit to showing it and another 04 with 108K but a newly installed (buy Mazda) remanned engine, clutch, etc). They were all within a $1000 of each other, in the end I picked the one that was the closest and newest which checked out.
The color really wasn't on my radar (primarily due to it only being on later S1s) but I'm kinda digging it, its understated but also appears to be pretty unique (my current car is Yellow and was one of only a couple of hundred in that color) its nice to have a change of pace but still maintain the uniqueness - or at least from what I was told, 2nd most rare to only a Shinka only color and the Sand interior is pretty unique too.

Oh and I did find the button by the license plate and it appears to work like it should.