turning 18 this year. next week im buying a car and my first pick was a 2005+ mustang. till i saw this http://www.fridayimages.com/62823691.../0142656-2.jpg

im in love i have to have it. 40k miles 2005. for someone who has been around engines that would have flooding problems ex boats all my life i don't think that would be TOO much of a problem to handle. ive driven 800hp+ dirt track racecars i think i could handle this car but my problem is i would really like to put this car in alot of local car shows. which would mean i would have to start it up rev it ect occasionally and me and my girlfriend do alot of going to eat,shop, gym ect and with the warm up is that only when it's cold? or EVERY time i want to drive my car would i have too wait for it to "warm" up every time i want to go to another place? the answers to my questions might be in here somewhere but i have to go soon and i don't have much time to hang out tonight. Im seriously in love with this car and i love hands on mechanical working. so im prepared to do some things. thanks for any help

 

^...............................I have an 05(with ~41k miles) and have never flooded it or had any warm start issues. That's first and foremost.
2nd..................really any car should be warmed up after initial start-up before just hammering it right out of the box. This warm-up period is really no longer than 15-25 seconds at best, then just take it easy for the first few minutes of actual driving.

 

i got the carfax report on it CARFAX Vehicle History Report for this 2005 MAZDA RX8

Manufacturer recall/service bulletin issued
Recall # 4206F
VOLUNTARY EMISSION RECALL
Click here to locate an authorized Mazda dealer near you to obtain more information about this recall

Short block replaced, and it being sold at an auction is kinda worring me..

 

If you can't get a compression test though, avoid it. It's engine was replaced WAY early in it's life, and it's >20k on the reman. I wouldn't trust it without the compression test.

 

the closest mazda dealership is around 27 miles from the dealership where the car is at. The dealership is pretty trustworthy he always has exotic and special cars like now he has a lambo, small town and he knows my father well. I don't really think i can get a compression test unless it can be done with out it having to be taken to a mazda shop.

 

It doesn't really matter how trustworthy he is. If he can't/won't get a compression test done on the engine then he has zero idea what he is selling either.

Yes, it's that critical. Talking yourself into reasons to get it anyway is how people show up here with blown engines 1 day to 4 weeks after purchase, screwed and having to foot the bill themselves. The only way that being "trustworthy" will help is if you can go back to him when it's blown and he will pay for the replacement. If he doesn't know what he is selling, you can't know what you are buying.

Example: https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discuss...or-get-243844/

 

i appreciate your help. Even though i really love this car and as much as it kills me i'm just going to pass on a rx8. one day i will have one though. one day.

 

hello i was wondering if its about 60 to 70 degrees outside.
how long do i have to warm up the car,
and in the middle of the summer when i turn on the car
obviously the temp gauge will be in the middle
indicating that its already warm.
do i still have to warm up my car?
sorry i am new to the rx8 club

 

Actually, the only way the temp will already be in the middle when you start the car when "cold" is if it's 165-220 degrees outside

Even if it's 100 out, the needle should be the whole way to the left.

The typically accepted method is to wait for the air pump to stop (blowing noise when you first start the engine, turns off when the cat gets hot enough, takes 5-30 seconds, depending on how cold the cat was already). Then you can drive the car, but just don't go above ~4,000rpm and don't go more than half throttle until the needle is in the middle.

There is no need to idle the whole way warm, although plenty of people do it in the winter while they are getting ready for work/school/etc... Light load low RPM is fine to drive on when cold.

This is the same as piston cars actually. Don't pound on engines when they are cold, and the engine will thank you for it.

 

Hey guys I'm new on here and just read all of the stickies. I bought an 04 RX8 6MT with 110k (no warm start problem at all thank god) this past weekend and was looking for some sort of intro section? Also, whenever I'm engaging the clutch it makes sort of a light knocking/tapping sound, not sure if it could be the TOB or something else. Any help would be great

 

i have a misfire on cylinder2 (as per cobb unit) so today ill be changing spark plugs and hopefully it will go away..... my question is once there changed should the code go away immediatelly on start up or do i have to disconect the battery and drive for a few minutes?

 

See my sig for the common information thread, if you just want to introduce yourself, feel free to start a thread in RX-8 Discussion.

If you have a COBB AP, just go to the troubleshooting menu and use the clear code function. It's better than pulling the battery connection since it won't reset lots of other stuff too.

Also, keep in mind that many different things can cause misfires, see the misfire thread in my sig.

 

ok thanks. If i clear the code how will i know if the problem is fixed? Im assuming it will pop up again next time i hook up my ap? The cel light is also on due to my front 02 sensor (in the process of getting a used one)

yes i did read your thread and hopefully it will fix it if not i plan on going to bhr ignition system

 

Your misfire might be caused by your o2 sensor failure too....

You have to learn to listen to your 8, feel how it's running with a great sensitivity. You can detect misfires before the ecu will. If you wait for the ecu to tell you, it may be too late.

 

Just read through most of your guide for me new owners and have to say thanks so much cant tell u how much info this has given me.

i plan i buying the car from the owner and i was wondering what the best place to take the car to get some tests run and high failure parts looked at?

 

Compression test will need a dealer, everything else isn't too clear. Someone from the forum that knows what they are doing and looking for will be able to check over the car far better than most dealers when it comes to everything else though.

 

I am always curious about why the ratory engine needs a special compression tester. Is it because all three chambers share the same spark plug?

 

It's so you can get a compression reading on each face of the rotor. With a standard compression gauge, you get an average reading across all three faces.

If you have low compression on 2 faces of the rotor, you likely have a worn or stuck apex seal. If your problem is on only one face, then the problem is likely a side seal. If it's across all faces, it's could be a rotor housing.

 

In addition to Al's points, you also need to know the RPM of the test. Standard analog compression testers don't provide individual face compression scores or the RPM of the test.

 

Have some more info on the 8 i am looking to buy

Salvage title
2004 rx8
72k miles on motor

What are somethings i should look for before i think of buying the car?

 

First, can you explain why you are considering a salvage title? Are you aware of what it means and all the challenges you will face? DMV won't let you register it until it passes a rebuilt inspection, insurance companies usually won't insure them.

 

So why we care about RPM for rotaries but not piston engines?

 

I stumbled onto this treasure trove of information AFTER(of course) I traded my monster truck in on a 2007 Rx8 Touring in Phantom blue mica . My eight had 37750 when I bought it last month and it now has 40100...LOL. It's easily the most fun car I've ever owned , and it shows in the number of miles I've put on it. My main question concerns driving it. While it's true that this is the first manual trans vehicle I've had in the last 10 years , it's not the only one....as a matter of fact I learned how to drive on a 1974 VW van with a 3 foot long stick and a clutch that went at least a foot n a half into the floor , so I feel capable on almost anything. My first question : Is there a trick for getting out of first and second smoothly , because at times it gets jerky? Do you really have to mash the throttle or something? My second question is regarding what I read already on the site....it seems contradictory to everything I've learned as far as caring for a vehicles engine to bump red line daily to actually help it , but yet that seems to be the consensus. I have no issues driving aggresively since thats my nature anyways , but do i need to bump red line or will winding it to 7k suffice to help with carbon build up? I wasn't really concerned about the durability of my car until I read some of the stuff here. I typically have been religious about oil changes and with the BMW I used to own I got used to treating the car like a family member....I'm guessing by what I've read that I need to do the same with the 8 and I have no problem with that. Thank you for the wonderful and informative site.

 

^ Post pics and welcome to the club!

 

It requires some practice. The really low torque and long gearing of the RX-8 makes it not the easiest car to get going with. It becomes natural with time.

There isn't a strict RPM point, the carbon is generally helped by high V/E in the engine, the higher the better, and our highest is at redline, although it's still high at 7k. You want to crest 8k at least periodically though, just to make sure that all the intake valves and secondary fuel injectors are exercised. They can get gummed up and stuck shut otherwise.