alh84001

Hi everyone.

I've had my eye on RX-8 for a while now, and it looks like I'll finally take the plunge in the next 7-10 days. I have my eyes set on a 2005 6-port version with 107k km on the car, and from what I understood 27k km on the current engine for around ~5k EUR. I've been going over the threads for newbies, and I'll dig deeper, since I still have some questions, and I'll try to compile them here for benefit of having them in one place. Also, I've noticed that some of the threads are a bit old now, so I'm wondering if all the information is up to date (feel free to flame me for this)

One thing that might be important - I live in Croatia. Much of information found on the (english-speaking) internet relates to parts/accessories/fluids available in US or UK, so if someone is from my part of Europe, any advice on where to get parts from or where to find a competent mechanic to work on the car would be really helpful. That being said, I'll be travelling to US in about six weeks time, so I'm counting on being able to get some smaller parts there.

Another note that might be important - I intend to use this car as a daily driver. I can live with mpg, and I'll mostly be using it outside of the city. I'm also not interested in power-modding it, driving it on racetrack etc, although I do intend to have some fun with it.

So, here's the list of things I plan to do with soon-to-be-mine car:
-1) talk to the seller about the car

0a) get compression reading from a dealer
0b) get dealer to check ignition coils and cat - can meaningful checks be made here? or should I just get new ones and be done with it?
0c) get dealer to check oil coolant lines

1a) buy a new starter - a friend of mine that lives near the seller actually went ahead and checked out the car, and said that turning it on was noticeably longer process than in his car (Mazda 6 if anyone's interested). I'm not sure if this was a hot or cold start, but it sounds like the original starter is still there - so I'm thinking of buying a new R3 starter from MazMart while I'm in the US. Are there options that are 'better' than OEM R3? I've seen some UK aftermarket ones that are cheaper, but I've not been impressed by reviews. Maybe I missed it in the newbie thread, but what RPM am I looking for with a starter? 250? 300?
1b) buy new coils and wires from BHR while I'm in the US (and OEM plugs if they have them available)

2) buy new OEM cat - from what I can tell there's nothing significantly better than that, I just need to figure out where to get it and not get skinned by dealers. Or does Magnaflow compare?

3) I intend to do oil-change every 5k km, and I intend to premix 100-octane fuel with 2-stroke oil. With that in mind, do I have to check engine oil level when adding oil (plan on doing it every 1k km), or can I just wing it with adding 2/3 quart (or maybe 1/2 quart because of premixing)? I still don't know which oil to use exactly. Climate here is cold winters and hot summers, so similar to NYC in the US lets say

4a) cooling - this is an area that I need to read-up more. It seems a good idea is to change the OEM air intake
4b) get a low temp thermostat and water pump from MazMart while I'm in the US

5) it seems I'll need/want to clean MAF sensor and SSV, or more precisely, get it cleaned somewhere

6) For the interior, I intend to get a double-din dash kit, and get some aftermarket android unit and connect it with OBD2 and Torque to monitor the temperature - I initially thought about getting a separate sensor and dial, but this seems more elegant

So, that's the list, Does anyone find anything missing or superfluous? Any and all recommendations are welcome, and hopefully I don't get flamed to hell.


Edit: And of course, I watched a bunch of youtube clips from Driven by Madness on Youtube, but only immediately after writing this post have I realised he's from Slovenia, so he might have a pointer or two for me wrt owning an RX-8 in this part of the world.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Welcome.
You seem to have a good grasp on it, obviously have read up quite a bit.
I don't have much to add, you seem to have covered a lot of issues.

Don't forget the last RX8 was made 8 years ago, so a lot of the threads are getting old.

I find the easiest way to search the forum is to use Google-RX8Club-subject.
You'll often see related or tagged threads at the end of many threads.

Good luck!

alh84001

Thanks. Still a lot to learn, but I'm going through it. The starter thing is a bit frustrating though. E.g. https://www.autodoc.de/autoteile/oem/n3r318400 - the same part in the same store ranging from EUR 100 to EUR 300, with two being from the same manufacturer with no way of telling what the difference is.

Edit:
According to https://psh.nl/media/1970/nummersysteem_02_2021.pdf cheaper one is +Line, and more expensive one is Mitsubishi New. Whatever that might mean

alh84001

Well, scratch that title. I went ahead and bought it! Now the fun really starts.

Some details about the car:
- 2005 (January) vintage
- 6-port version
- ~108k km on it
- allegedly engine was swapped some ~20k km ago - how can I tell if it's still a 6-port version? :D
- I drove it some 100 miles back home yesterday evening - I forgot to take the OBD adapter so I couldn't monitor the temperature, and hopefully I haven't wrecked it - I tried keeping it ~3.5-4k RPM, with occasional bursts
- the car is sometimes/mostly nervous when idling (btw wtf are engine mounts? :D and why to they affect performance so much on this car?)
- when I drove it on the highway in 6th gear I had a feeling it had less torque past 6k RPM than at ~3k. I haven't tried reving it high on lower gears.....I did manage to get to 180km/h without that much of a problem, especially in 5th gear, and I didn't want to go faster
- still, it was a tad underwhelming trying to kick it on the highway - I noticed that in 6th gear, there is no perceptible difference whether the throttle is ~1/3 (guessing there a bit), or whether it was pressed to the floor
- driving on the tight hill roads in my city it was actually too easy to go fast
- center console gets quite warm - I read that's typical, and that aftermarket midpipe and cat could take care of that
- fuel consumption on the highway wasn't that bad
- I need to learn how to properly start in first gear, I easily rev it loud before the clutch kicks in
- the view of that left wheel arch from the driver position is just awesome

Next stop is getting the compression checked. Which none of the dealers here are able to do :facepalm:, so I'll need to do it myself.

And here's a pic of it in all its glory.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Congratulations.
Did you see any flashing CEL?
(Check Engine Light)
Check your OBD for stored or pending codes, easy for a seller to unhook the battery and clear them.
If you are able, drop and inspect the catalytic converter.
If they are broken or clogged up, they're a major cause of engine damage, usually from bad coils.
Check or replace them.

http://"New and Potential Owners STA...t-here-202454/

alh84001

Thanks!
I haven't seen any CEL activity. I'll look into checking pending CEL codes - gotta read-up on ODB usage. I booked a check-up at my local mazda dealer, among other things to check the cat, and I'll be ordering BHG coils ASAP. I also ordered a compression tester which will take some time to arrive as they are in short supply, and in the meantime I'll try to refrain from using the car as much as possible.

alh84001

I just took the car out for a spin, an hour ride through city and a short highway stretch, in around 30-32C (86-90F) and sunny weather. I monitored ODB throughout the ride, and the temperature quickly rose to the range where it would fluctuate throughout the whole ride - it stayed in the 96-102C (205-215F) range, with brief peaks at 103C (217F). One of these peaks was hit when I red-lined in second gear (reached ~100km/h). Also when starting, I took it slowly out of the garage and onto the road, let it idle for 5 mins, and then spend next 10 mins between 2k and 3k RPM, before driving it more freely.

The steps that I will do now are as follows:
- drive the car to do dealer to do the basic check-up and check the cat, engine mounts, cooling system, heat-shield, etc
- get the compression tester and the kit to lower the cooling fans activation temperature and convert stock gauges in the dash to show proper temperature and oil pressure - unfortunately supply issues are a b***h, so I have to wait at least 10-14 days for that
- if compression is good, then I'll order BHR coils, leads and plugs, and a new starter
- also, clean MAF and hopefully SSV as well
- mod for the airflow to be better - perhaps getting a new cold-air intake as well
- do mazmart oil pressure mod

I don't want to think about steps if the compression is not good at this moment Still, that lack of response when pressing pedal to more than halfway down is worrying me a bit. (by lack of response I don't mean it's not doing anything, just that there appears to be no difference between half throttle and full throttle)

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Fingers crossed for you.

d-LoiX

Congrats! another newbie! Its such a fun car to drive and to mess with.

I got my 2004 with 90k kms original engine! Getting to 100 birthday soon, mostly track!
Even though I do not live in Eastern Europe, same thing happened to me with the spare parts. Everything is US, UK or Australia. With huge import taxes.
But found a guy that crosses the border every month with parts xD.

On my personal experience:
#1 Temps!!! If you have 30-40C in summer engine will suffer.
It was a headache for me and I have not reached track stability.
- Check radiator, check coolant leaks, flush yearly. My radiator was rusted and damaged, I changed it and a mishimoto thermostat.
- Check oil lines. Check oil levels with the stick every other week, refill - never pass de full mark.
- I am using mineral 15W40, and no issues at all, helped with temps. Changing every 3000km due to track abuse. Drinks a liter every 30 laps of time attack.
- DECAT! it useless. I did a bolt on setup so every year I go drive it hard (without premix) then rent the cat and go to do the emissions test.

- Some medium level coilovers make the car feel even better on twisty roads. I got Tein Flex for around 1000 usb.
- center console overheating is the clutch, no mid pipe will help with that, its normal

- Dyno it! its fun and gives you a starting point and nice to see your little progress up the curve, also will help to detect SSV APV issues
- Either get a versatunner license or do a safety flash maybe later, lower fan temp activation and increase 10-15% oil injection.

Its addictive, and quite cheap fun car to do time attacks and track days.

Regarding coils, I stayed on OEM REV C heard a lot of mixed opinions about "premium" coils, and to get the full benefit you'll need to flash tune.

Starter, - I bought a 50 USD 2kW starter, it starts in 2 cranks!

Get away from the dealer, they will rip you off. Try to get a friendly mechanic, even if not specific rotary, trusted one.
Get to do things yourself! its fun (consumes time though) Bleed brakes, replace rotors and pads, change oil you will learn a lot about the 8 and engines in general, its same principle.

Get a nice brand catback, it sounds great, I made a bad call and made a custom cheap setup and hate how it sounds so I am waiting for new catback.

Rev it and enjoy it! If taken care they are like any other car.

Regarding your comment on low power above 6000 that shouldnt be the case, check Dyno and se where you are.
S1 has a really long gear ratio, so if you an get a S2 ring and pinion kit it will feel more responsive.

Enjoy and congrats again!

alh84001

Thanks! Yeah I'm still at the beginning of my journey, and still waiting to get basic parts, before I push it harder. And I definitely plan to move away from the dealership, but I still wanted to do the first check-up with them, and see what they have logged for it. In the meantime I noticed/did two things:

- I used OBD to check starter cranking RPM, and it showed ~250rpms
- I noticed that the cars exhaust has a strong smell. E.g. yesterday, after a 30min drive, when I parked, friends of mine commented that it's quite a smell from exhaust fumes. it's not gasoline smell, just burnt fuel. Also, I notice it too when I park in my garage, even after a longer drive. I do use premix in it (125ml 2T oil per full tank) and 100 RON fuel rating so I don't know, it might be normal and us just not being used to it. They were supposed to measure exhaust fumes when it was in the dealership, and they haven't mentioned anything about it when picking it up.

In any case, it's been quite a hectic two weeks since I bought it so I still haven't been able to buy necessary garage equipment and start caring for it properly, but I'll try and take care of at least the MAF sensor in the next couple of days.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Smell and hot centerl console point to the cat potentially having a hard time. Warm to the touch is OK, hot that you can't touch it is not. The clutch isn't doing that, not sure where that idea came from. A fully warmed up car shouldn't smell even with premix. Take a whiff of the exhaust when the car is cold started - that's what it smells like all the time decatted.

If you haven't already, I'd check if your cat is glowing red after a good highway run.

Yes there is not much power to be had in 6th gear at highway speeds. This isn't a diesel, downshift if you need to accelerate quickly.

Look into a radiator upgrade if you're worried about heat and everything is already in good condition. CSF makes a great one.
​​​​​​

alh84001

Thanks for all the advice and insight Loki, it resonates with my general instincts, if that makes sense.

I just got CEL on, with ODB reading "P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1". I wasn't able to do a proper run tonight just a short 20 minute one, with redlining in second and third once, and looking below the car in dark environment I couldn't see aything resembling a cat glow. I'll tread lightly until I deal with it.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Ah, yeah. That would be a sign the cat needs attention. Drive it at your risk, clogged cats kill engines. If you haven't felt any power loss that's a good sign, but all the same, get that cat inspected ao you know what you're up against.

alh84001

I'm checking the temperature the whole time I'm driving it and it reaches peak of 102C, and mostly staying below 100C, now that it's a bit colder here. At one point it very briefly reached 107C when I couldn't help and was aggresive, which now has me on my toes :/

Shaozhou Zhang

While you are here won’t don’t you also grab Mazmart’a oil pressure regulator, very small part.

I bought a cheap 2KW starter from Amazon for approx $100.

Checking coil IMO is a waste of time if they are around 30k miles. Just replace them, check them may involve more labor.

107 is too hot, everything under 104 is fine. You mentioned change OEM intake for cooling which is a nice idea but make sure you pair AEM intake with a vented hood + battery relocation+ proper rad inlet duct (under tray+foam). you will see massive cooling gains, also consider lower the fan’s temp to something like 87 and 93.

At this mileage, you rad may also be partially clogged, Mazmart radiator is a nice upgrade, but making that as a carry on or checked bag could be a PITA and might get damaged.

d-LoiX

Will the stock Oil pump be able to hold the pressure regulator?

Shaozhou Zhang

Simply put ,it does.
The regulator regulates the max pressure within the system, whether the regulator actuates (actuate might not be the best word but you get the idea) or not, the pump still pumps, it is a positive displacement pump driven by the eccentric shaft, so it will pump no matter what.
However, my extremely rusted oil cooler lines blown several days after installing it, JB welded it, no more leaks ever since.

alh84001

Thanks for the suggestions! I'll probably order bigger stuff (radiator, undertray, air duct, cat,....) from that one British shop, customs and taxes be damn, but I'll definitely look into Mazmart's offerings for anything that I can carry back.

alh84001

Well, I finally got to measuring the compression on my engine. If i didn't do anything wrong, and if the tester is running properly, results are pretty catastrophic - 4,9 bar on the front rotor, and 5,1 bar on the rear one. Based on the comments
@ https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...2/#post4533734 I too am amazed that the car is running at all, let alone that I did ~1000km with it.

Now, there is a chance I improperly screwed the sensor in, and that might have affected the measurement, but I doubt it, as I really tried it turning it with my hand as far as it went. So, my options are either a rebuild (if possible) or a new/reman engine. What are the pros and cons of each?

Loki

iTrader: (1)

That's not great for sure, but given that it shouldn't start/run with those numbers, I would question the numbers. What did you measure with exactly? At what rpm?

apex1

There is rebuild, reman and new. The general standard is a Mazda reman. These are made to pass minimum compression levels which are pretty reasonable. There are options above and below a Mazda reman. A rebuild with minimum parts and reusing used irons and housings will usually be the cheapest, with the lowest outcome. Usually compression below spec and durability lower.

A rebuild with with new components or a newly built engine from a premium shop will cost the most and usually have good outcomes.

research lots before pulling the trigger.

Xecromancer

@alh84001 How have things gone since the last update? Did you rerun the compression test and what were the numbers? I'm just curious and hope for the best. I can't help solve anything.

alh84001

Hey all, it's been quite a while after my last update, so I thought to let everyone know that the car is now running as it should - or at least I hope so . Here's a brief timeline:
1. by end of July I did a compression test, and I got results ~5bar
2. I drove the car like that for a month, and I started looking for parts to replace to try and rule out issues other than the engine - I got in touch with a reputable store, and just after I planned on placing an order it got really hard to get in touch with them
3. I kept the car in the garage, and I found an engine supplier, and by the end of September I decided to just place an order fr a new engine
4. Engine arrived at some point in November, and I drove my car to the mechanic by the end of November
5. The mechanic itself has never touched a rotary, and I basically found him online without a reference, but it turns out he deals with aircraft engines in addition to cars, and I think I really was lucky to find him, as he was very enthusiastic to work on the car
6. I went on a month-long trip, and they needed to order some spare parts and the work proceeded slowly - they disassembled the front wheels to get the engine out from under the car, as they weren't knowledgable of how everything links together. I've seen on Youtube that engine could be lifted up from the car
7. In January I finally ordered other parts from another store - coils, spark plugs, radiator, intake, engine mounts, coilovers, catalytic converter....
8. At the start of last week work on the car is finished, and they took it for a spin couple of times just to check all is working
9. I picked the car up on Saturday, and today I did the yearly vehicle registration - emissions are within allowed ranges
10. Today I went to the mechanic and we opened up the old engine - I never would have been able to do it myself because of necessary tools - e.g. one of the rods that holds the engine block is exposed to the elements, and it rusted a lot, so we needed to heat it up with a blow torch to get it out

Verdict on the engine is - worn rotor housing (seals were gone as well) - on both rotors, above the spark plug port, I think. Front housing was more worn than the rear. Here's a pic of the front one:


Idle is now much smoother. Engine is in the break-in period now, so I can't test how's the power/torque in higher gears and revs, but we'll get to that as well. Car is maybe a bit 'rough' between 1k-2k RPMs, but when it hits 2.5k and up to 4k it's really smooth.

I wish to express huge thanks everyone here on your input. Even if some might have seen not directly helpful, I assure you it was all appreciated. It's nice to even just have someone rooting on the sidelines