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Hey guys, I work at a dealership here in Wyoming and I just picked up a 2004 RX-8. I was able to grab the car up for $1k, and it obviously needs some work. Sounded like a fun project to me, and I will be getting it back in shape. I used to own a '87 Turbo II and an '87 N/A, so I'm happy to get back in the rotory game. The 04 has about 94k miles, and has a couple mods on it. Previous owner has installed; Tein coilovers, upgraded ignition system (some Australian brand can't think of the name off the top of my head), air pump delete, mid-pipe with cat delete, and an aftermarket intake. He threw some nicer wheels and tires as well as some StopTech rotors and pads.. Body is a little rough, but I'll be cleaning it up and repainting it. Currently it is having the ABS/ E-brake/ Steering error and check engine light. Pulled codes and they are all ABS related. U1900 U2516 B1342 C1155 C1145 U0121 P0410 Went through and checked out and cleaned connections on wheel speed sensors, EPS connections that are below the air box, EPS module, and I'm not seeing any issues of corrosion. Tried clearing codes with code reader, and no luck. Tried resetting the the computer the 20 brake pedal depressions technique and no luck as well. Anybody have any additional ideas? 60 amp fuse is good under the hood. 3rd brake light is operating normally. Brake pads are rather new as he put the StopTech brakes on recently. Ordered a new ABS control module and new EPS module. Maybe this will be the fix but I'm not sure. I'd like to get the issues resolved before pulling the motor for a rebuild. I'll be doing the SOHN metering pump adapter kit, high torque starter shortly. Any other must needs on these series 1s?
Congrats on your new (to you) car! The SOHN adapter I wouldn't classify as a "must need" its debatable whether there is any benefit over just premixing into the gas. P0410 is your air pump which is already deleted, but you need to make sure that resistor box is still plugged in otherwise it will throw that code. Is the power steering working? Also, is the engine able to start while hot? What makes you think pulling the engine may be necessary? You would need a compression test first to determine if that's the route you need to go.
The resistor was still plugged in when I checked it out. Steering seemed to be assisted, so I'm thinking it's still working. The engine will start but it definitely takes a little longer. I have a rotary compression tester coming next week to see if its needed. I would honestly like to tear it down, rebuild it and bridgeport it for some more power. I am going to figure out these issues before I do that however.
The resistor was still plugged in when I checked it out. Steering seemed to be assisted, so I'm thinking it's still working. The engine will start but it definitely takes a little longer. I have a rotary compression tester coming next week to see if its needed. I would honestly like to tear it down, rebuild it and bridgeport it for some more power. I am going to figure out these issues before I do that however.
Bridgeport in this engine reduces low end torque and rough the idle up a bit. What is your end goal for this car? The intake ports are actually really good, you don't need to touch them. It's the exhaust ports that need more work as they are pretty restrictive. Definitely compression test the engine and if you are going to rebuild I hope you have a solid budget of at least $4k.
Bridgeport in this engine reduces low end torque and rough the idle up a bit. What is your end goal for this car? The intake ports are actually really good, you don't need to touch them. It's the exhaust ports that need more work as they are pretty restrictive. Definitely compression test the engine and if you are going to rebuild I hope you have a solid budget of at least $4k.
Well I may end up going another route. Car won't be daily driven, it would be built for more autocross and "spirited" driving. I've got a decent car build savings and this is what I chose to tinker on. I wanted to boost the car initially, but from what I hear the Renesis doesn't seem to like boost. If I can solve these ABS issues and drive it a bit more, I may have a better idea of what I need to do.
Well I may end up going another route. Car won't be daily driven, it would be built for more autocross and "spirited" driving. I've got a decent car build savings and this is what I chose to tinker on. I wanted to boost the car initially, but from what I hear the Renesis doesn't seem to like boost. If I can solve these ABS issues and drive it a bit more, I may have a better idea of what I need to do.
You can boost the Renesis but it's expensive and you dont see the dramatic WHP gains you see with other engines. You could also go for an engine swap option. Either GM or 13b REW if you want to keep it a rotary. Lot of information on this site should help you decide. There is certainly no shortage of options. Bridgeport good for racing since you are keeping the revs up you will see high end power gains.
Engine swap may be an option at some point, but I would certainly like a little experience rebuilding the rotary. I'm a little concerned parts may get more and more difficult to find on the older 13B motors, so that makes me hesitant of an engine swap to that.
Engine swap may be an option at some point, but I would certainly like a little experience rebuilding the rotary. I'm a little concerned parts may get more and more difficult to find on the older 13B motors, so that makes me hesitant of an engine swap to that.
The older 13b engine there a lot more room to make power but yes, it is an expensive route to go. Comes down to what you want to do for your budget.
The older 13b engine there a lot more room to make power but yes, it is an expensive route to go. Comes down to what you want to do for your budget.
Ultimately if I end up falling for the car I have no problem sinking money in it... but if I can't get these issues figured out it may not get far at all 😂🤣
Solved the ABS issues. Still have a check engine light, and haven't ran the code yet I'm assuming it has to do with the air pump removal. Does anybody know what this plug goes to?
The resistor is still plugged in just not the bigger guage plug. Block off plate is installed. There is another plug in the front just randomly missing whatever was plugged in as well. Its located near the driver's side oil cooler.
Does anybody know what this connector goes to? Going to run compression test this weekend to see if a rebuild is necessary yet. Does everybody have hot start issues on their higher mileage 8s? Would a high speed starter help?
Does anybody know what this connector goes to? Going to run compression test this weekend to see if a rebuild is necessary yet. Does everybody have hot start issues on their higher mileage 8s? Would a high speed starter help?
Not sure about that plug. If you are over 6 bar on all rotor faces it should be starting fine hot or cold. High speed starter does help a lot on lower compression engines so if you are having issues starting it's worth changing out.
Possible that's the foglight plug? I thought they were green, but it's in the right place. Otherwise it doesn't look familiar.
A high speed starter helps start the car despite poor compression, but it's a bandaid. If the engine is too low on compression to start normally, it's time for a new engine.
Not sure if it was mentioned but the achille's heel of these cars are ignition coils. You'll want to make sure those are refreshed every 25k or so, or aftermarket Yukon coil conversions, such as BHR. Bad coils kill cats, bad cats kill engines.
New 2004 Owner
