Joe Elsleger

I apologise if I'm not posting this in the correct place.

Anyhow, I have an 04 AT RX8 that needs an engine replacement. I know because I checked the apex seals today and one or two on the rear rotor are gone

This is our only car and we don't have alot of money so anyone who can help or point us in the right direction we'd greatly appreciate it. Thank you.

NotAPreppie

Can you give us a little more detail?

• How did you check the apex seals?
• What makes you certain that this engine is a total loss?
• How many miles are on the engine?

A 4-port motor (as found on early 2004-2005 4AT RX-8s) from Mazda is about $3000 (part number N3Y2-02-200R-V0). If you keep your old engine, they will charge you an extra $1000.
Labor to do the replacement is going to start at $1500 and go up from there, depending on who does the work.
Expect to add around another $1000 for fluids, other worn out parts and other incidentals.

It's tough to say how much a rebuild would cost because nobody can tell how many parts from your old engine can be re-used. I can say that if you spend less than $2000 on a rebuild, you're probably going to get a crappy engine that won't last long. If you spend between $2000 and $3000, it's a crap shoot about the quality of the rebuild. The golden number seems to be greater than $3000 but it's still no guarantee.

If you're desperate and you really, genuinely don't have any money, you can try your luck with a JDM engine from eBay. They don't come with warranties or compression test results so you have no idea what you're getting. There's a non-zero chance that you'll end up with a $2000 paper weight.

Here are a few hits I got on google by searching for the part number I posted above...
https://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/p...202200RV0.html
https://parts.mazdaofwooster.com/oem...l-n3y202200rv0
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts...l-n3y202200rv0
(I verified this is the correct part number in the Mazda Motorsports Development website by typing in the old part number and getting the succession/superseded part number.)

UnknownJinX

Most dealers will likely charge you closer to 4k for the engine due to 4-port just being more expensive. And no, you change put a 6-oort in and expect it to work without doing a lot of other stuff.

Those junkyard engines are a gamble. If you feel like rolling the dice then that's another option. Just beware of the risk, and note that you will very likely lose(especially with a 4-port engine; people who bought those early AT ones don't tend to be the most knowledgeable).

Honestly, if you don't have $4k+ lying around, my suggestion is just cutting your losses("doesn't start" 8s generally sell for $1k) or store it until you have the money, meanwhile, buy a $1~2k Corolla/Civic to get around.

Joe Elsleger

Thank you all for your speedy replies.

First, I removed the plug wires then each L plug one at a time and cranked it. The front rotor sounded great and had consistent poofs..but when I did the rear I didn't hear any poofs at all. So I then put a 19mm socket on the crank pulley and turned it a little at a time till I seen where the apex seals should be. The first apex seal I seen was there but had a hair line crack in the middle so I then turned it till I seen where the next seal should be but no silver seal, just a black gap where the apex seal should be. I did see some light scratch marks on the rotor as I was rotating it so that was my first clue that an apex seal went. On the plus side though I will say the rotors looked very clean as I maintenanced it properly (oil changes every 2K miles and ran premium gas). I'm well aware that more then likely when the seal went it more then likely damaged the iron, rotor housing, and or rotor..
but yeah, that's how I know a apex seal went..and so now I need an engine.

I did check online and found a refurbished engine from OJ imports I believe and that's 2,500 with a core exchange.

Also, I do have a friend or 2 that will help pull the engine and put a replacement engine in so far as I know I don't need a shop to do that for me. So yeah I'll be installing the new engine myself basically.
Thank you.

200.mph

iTrader: (9)

it would probably be cheaper and smarter to buy a 6spd 8 than to replace the motor in a 4 port auto unless that price from oj is legit

Chrishoky

iTrader: (9)

Yea... your gonna have a bad time with OJ. I'm sure NotAPreppie will chime in with his horror story as far as OJ goes, but in the meantime: https://www.rx8club.com/good-guy-bad...mports-265160/

Joe Elsleger

Thank you so much for giving me the lowdown on OJ Imports. I definitely will not be using them. I did however find Rx7World.com and they have 3 stages of rebuilds depending on what you want. I believe the cheapest is around 3K and I'm not sure if shipping is included but there is a 1K core charge which I'll definitely be handing my old core over. They also have a monthly layaway plan with some money down so this may be a good option. Im also going to look into Rotary Resurrection and see how much they charge for a rebuilt engine.

I know it all seems bad but considering I only paid 600 for the car which I did buy a new starter, upgraded ignition coils, NGK plugs, Essex wires, and alternator...even after paying 3-4K for a new or refurbished engine, it'd still be worth it and hold it's value and not to mention I have all those fairly new parts to put on the new block but I don't ever see selling it. I'd like to enjoy it as long as I live.

Anyone have any helpful advice on the easiest method to pull the engine? Some say lifting it out and others say it's easier to drop it out the bottom.
Thank you.

NotAPreppie

Honestly, if it were the choice between getting a $3k rebuild from any builder and a $3k Mazda reman, I'd go for the Mazda reman.

If I'm paying extra for a rebuilder to do performance and reliability upgrades then they usually start with a Mazda reman anyway.

If you don't have a lift, it's easiest to pull the engine out through the top.

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...w-pics-178937/
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...ctures-178945/

Chrishoky

iTrader: (9)

I agree, if it were me I would spend the $3K on a Mazda Reman for a couple reasons. Most importantly Paul from Mazmart has stated that the current OEM remans have been very good quality and are using mostly new parts. They also come with a 12 month, 12K mile warranty (this may only apply if they install the engine though, not 100% sure on that).

Joe Elsleger

Ok thank you for the useful info and posting the helpful links. Much appreciated 👍
im currently working on getting the cherry picker here.
My fiance asked me about rebuilding the current engine so I told her with what it will probably cost to replace the core engine components that were damaged when the seal blew (iron, rotor housing, and possibly the rotor) and what it'd cost for the rebuild kit (1,300-1,500), we'd probably be better off and spend less just getting a reman and not to mention we wouldn't have to actually do the rebuilding. I told her its not as simple as she thinks and if just one thing is off you probably will not get more then 100-200 miles on the rebuild before you're right back in the same boat...which is having to pull the engine and get a rebuild and also not to mention if you do the rebuild yourself you obviously don't get a warranty.

wannawankel

Replacing the engine is to your significant others' advantage - keeps you out of the local watering holes and close to home. You have to have goals.

ShellDude

iTrader: (12)

I should've done a parts list breakdown of the 4 to 6 conversion. 3 grand gets you pretty damn close in parts.