Need Info about Compression readings and hot starts
02-12-2015, 07:13 AM
#26
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My guess is baring any customs issue, that yes BHR may be able to ship to Pakistan. The BHR coils are lifetime,they work great, are built super strong and will give a slight power and mileage boost. Highly recommended by hundreds of club members. Charles of BHR is a great guy and will help all he can. He makes great RX8 products, top quality.
Other coils need changing out every 30k miles. If you get OEM coils instead, try to get the latest OEM version the "C" coils, instead of the older design A or B coils. The "C" coils so far have been shown to be better built and last longer.
Contact BHR | Black Halo Racing
BTW- I dont know if this is possible. But if you have a few RX8 owners near you, it may be worth the purchase. There is a lower cost rotary engine tester that will work with your laptop computer . I know because a friend of one of our local RX8 club group (an RX7 owner) brought one to a local club meet and used it to test several of the engines of some new RX8 owners in our group. If I can find a link to this on the internet, I will post it. Following the instructions this tester could be used by anyone with basic mechanic skills (getting a spark plug off, one at a time) and some computer knowledge (Using the software to calculate the results.) I will look for this for you. It did work to get proper compression readings .
Best to you. We all are here to help you all we can, this is a great group worldwide.
Other coils need changing out every 30k miles. If you get OEM coils instead, try to get the latest OEM version the "C" coils, instead of the older design A or B coils. The "C" coils so far have been shown to be better built and last longer.
Contact BHR | Black Halo Racing
BTW- I dont know if this is possible. But if you have a few RX8 owners near you, it may be worth the purchase. There is a lower cost rotary engine tester that will work with your laptop computer . I know because a friend of one of our local RX8 club group (an RX7 owner) brought one to a local club meet and used it to test several of the engines of some new RX8 owners in our group. If I can find a link to this on the internet, I will post it. Following the instructions this tester could be used by anyone with basic mechanic skills (getting a spark plug off, one at a time) and some computer knowledge (Using the software to calculate the results.) I will look for this for you. It did work to get proper compression readings .
Best to you. We all are here to help you all we can, this is a great group worldwide.
Awesome. thanks for the info. waiting for the link.
I contacted BHR Chris and guided me that his ignition coils will give me the error as quoted by him "the BHR Ignition System will illuminate a series of CELs for "coil communication error for Asian region PCMs ""
So thats why i changed one faulty coil and now issue is resolved. Mileage is better 8km/litre. Starting is way way better.
So now all i need is a mazda compression tester that you mentioned earlier and on waiting for that.
Thanks a lot guys. You all are great
02-14-2015, 10:05 PM
#27
40th anniversary Edition
Rotary Engine compression testers: Two links
****** Rotary-engine Compression Tester System
TR-01 Rotary Engine Compression Tester
Instructions of how to use a regular compression tester and still get the complete results you need: Three Links
Rotary Tech Tips: How to compression check a rotary engine
Compression Check
Hope this info helps you. Sorry the BHR coils throws CELs on Japanese PCMs, the BHR are the best. Look for the latest and better OEM 'C" coils then if you can obtain them. Ignition system health is CRITICAL in a rotary engine. Don't neglect any part of it, coils, wires, plugs. and don't mix coils from different manufacturers, or mix coils of varying condition.
Fellow RX8 club members please chime in here if you know of other affordable quality rotary engine compression testers on the market that will work for him.
****** Rotary-engine Compression Tester System
TR-01 Rotary Engine Compression Tester
Instructions of how to use a regular compression tester and still get the complete results you need: Three Links
Rotary Tech Tips: How to compression check a rotary engine
Compression Check
Hope this info helps you. Sorry the BHR coils throws CELs on Japanese PCMs, the BHR are the best. Look for the latest and better OEM 'C" coils then if you can obtain them. Ignition system health is CRITICAL in a rotary engine. Don't neglect any part of it, coils, wires, plugs. and don't mix coils from different manufacturers, or mix coils of varying condition.
Fellow RX8 club members please chime in here if you know of other affordable quality rotary engine compression testers on the market that will work for him.
Last edited by gwilliams6; 02-14-2015 at 10:16 PM.
02-15-2015, 12:18 AM
#28
02-15-2015, 07:04 AM
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02-15-2015, 07:05 AM
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Rotary Engine compression testers: Two links
****** Rotary-engine Compression Tester System
TR-01 Rotary Engine Compression Tester
Instructions of how to use a regular compression tester and still get the complete results you need: Three Links
Rotary Tech Tips: How to compression check a rotary engine
Compression Check
Hacking together a compression tester for a rotary engine (RX8) - YouTube
Hope this info helps you. Sorry the BHR coils throws CELs on Japanese PCMs, the BHR are the best. Look for the latest and better OEM 'C" coils then if you can obtain them. Ignition system health is CRITICAL in a rotary engine. Don't neglect any part of it, coils, wires, plugs. and don't mix coils from different manufacturers, or mix coils of varying condition.
Fellow RX8 club members please chime in here if you know of other affordable quality rotary engine compression testers on the market that will work for him.
****** Rotary-engine Compression Tester System
TR-01 Rotary Engine Compression Tester
Instructions of how to use a regular compression tester and still get the complete results you need: Three Links
Rotary Tech Tips: How to compression check a rotary engine
Compression Check
Hacking together a compression tester for a rotary engine (RX8) - YouTube
Hope this info helps you. Sorry the BHR coils throws CELs on Japanese PCMs, the BHR are the best. Look for the latest and better OEM 'C" coils then if you can obtain them. Ignition system health is CRITICAL in a rotary engine. Don't neglect any part of it, coils, wires, plugs. and don't mix coils from different manufacturers, or mix coils of varying condition.
Fellow RX8 club members please chime in here if you know of other affordable quality rotary engine compression testers on the market that will work for him.
02-16-2015, 10:26 AM
#31
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Hi, i am a newbie here so guide me accordingly.
My car exhibits little missing when idle. i have checked ignition coils, leads and plugs and they are all fine but i use low grade gas. can using high octane premium gas solve that little missing when idle( rpm needle stays still, no flickering)?
Please explain
thanks all
My car exhibits little missing when idle. i have checked ignition coils, leads and plugs and they are all fine but i use low grade gas. can using high octane premium gas solve that little missing when idle( rpm needle stays still, no flickering)?
Please explain
thanks all
02-16-2015, 11:06 AM
#32
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Got new plugs , wires and coils, everything seems to work fine but just a little problem. When at idle, my car seems to show little missing after 3 to 5 seconds.. the missing is gone at around 1500rpm.
I am using leaded fuel ( Low grade). can this be the reason of that little missing every 5 seconds or is there something else going on?
The cars starts fine ( within 2 seconds) and idle needle do not flicker. thanks and waiting for reply
I am using leaded fuel ( Low grade). can this be the reason of that little missing every 5 seconds or is there something else going on?
The cars starts fine ( within 2 seconds) and idle needle do not flicker. thanks and waiting for reply
02-16-2015, 11:34 AM
#33
Sigh... here we go again.
Check your battery, see if its putting out good power.
If you are new to car, use the recommended octane. At idle, I don't think octane will change how the cars feels too much, its much more noticeable under load. I always use 93 or more, its not worth the risk to me to run lower. Pinging and knocking is super bad for the apex seals and you can avoid that with higher octane.
Check vacuum lines, intake/filter, maybe fuel pump and filter. Improper fuel or air often messes up idle and will be even more noticeable under load.
Finally, get a compression test if all else checks out.
Check your battery, see if its putting out good power.
If you are new to car, use the recommended octane. At idle, I don't think octane will change how the cars feels too much, its much more noticeable under load. I always use 93 or more, its not worth the risk to me to run lower. Pinging and knocking is super bad for the apex seals and you can avoid that with higher octane.
Check vacuum lines, intake/filter, maybe fuel pump and filter. Improper fuel or air often messes up idle and will be even more noticeable under load.
Finally, get a compression test if all else checks out.
02-16-2015, 12:03 PM
#34
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Sigh... here we go again.
Check your battery, see if its putting out good power.
If you are new to car, use the recommended octane. At idle, I don't think octane will change how the cars feels too much, its much more noticeable under load. I always use 93 or more, its not worth the risk to me to run lower. Pinging and knocking is super bad for the apex seals and you can avoid that with higher octane.
Check vacuum lines, intake/filter, maybe fuel pump and filter. Improper fuel or air often messes up idle and will be even more noticeable under load.
Finally, get a compression test if all else checks out.
Check your battery, see if its putting out good power.
If you are new to car, use the recommended octane. At idle, I don't think octane will change how the cars feels too much, its much more noticeable under load. I always use 93 or more, its not worth the risk to me to run lower. Pinging and knocking is super bad for the apex seals and you can avoid that with higher octane.
Check vacuum lines, intake/filter, maybe fuel pump and filter. Improper fuel or air often messes up idle and will be even more noticeable under load.
Finally, get a compression test if all else checks out.
So now, i think only fuel pump and premium gasoline is left to check
Last edited by RX8 pearl red; 02-16-2015 at 12:08 PM. Reason: adding more info
02-16-2015, 01:50 PM
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02-16-2015, 01:52 PM
#37
I don't think this is the OP's situation, but just out of curiosity, if you've removed your catalytic converter, leaded fuel or a lead additive won't hurt anything, right? I've only heard of lead being harmful to the cats. (You probably wouldn't want to huff the exhaust either, but it apparently wasn't a big concern 50 years ago, so I'm guessing it doesn't contribute significantly to the toxicity.)
02-16-2015, 02:56 PM
#39
What, precisely, is normal? Can you post your results?
02-16-2015, 06:05 PM
#40
Driving my unreliable rx8
Already checked up all the stuff with compression readings, All are normal, Battery is brand new. Vaccum line from map sensor to engine was cut off but now its fixed.. My car shows little missing at idle ( under 1000rpm) every 5 seconds So now, i think only fuel pump and premium gasoline is left to check
02-16-2015, 08:06 PM
#41
What the hell are you guys on about? That's not a MAP sensor, that's a barometer. Unless we're trolling right now? If that's the case then yes, definitely, it goes to the intake.
The baro sensor is meant to be connected to a short tube with a cut off end that's open to the atmosphere, it does not go anywhere and if it's plugged into anything it will murder the MAF calculations like nobodies business. Problem solved.
The baro sensor is meant to be connected to a short tube with a cut off end that's open to the atmosphere, it does not go anywhere and if it's plugged into anything it will murder the MAF calculations like nobodies business. Problem solved.
02-17-2015, 05:36 AM
#43
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Yeah vacuum line connection fixed lot of missing on high revs but a little missing still remains at 800rpm. maybe because i used low grade fuel.
Upper rotor = 100psi
Rear rotor = 85psi
02-17-2015, 05:38 AM
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Exactly, the vacuum line for map sensor connects to a t-link and from there one pipe goes to engine and the other maybe to the intake ( didn't see where the other went)..lols
02-17-2015, 05:52 AM
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What the hell are you guys on about? That's not a MAP sensor, that's a barometer. Unless we're trolling right now? If that's the case then yes, definitely, it goes to the intake.
The baro sensor is meant to be connected to a short tube with a cut off end that's open to the atmosphere, it does not go anywhere and if it's plugged into anything it will murder the MAF calculations like nobodies business. Problem solved.
The baro sensor is meant to be connected to a short tube with a cut off end that's open to the atmosphere, it does not go anywhere and if it's plugged into anything it will murder the MAF calculations like nobodies business. Problem solved.
Can you please show me the picture of barometer and cut off wire so that i can tell my electrician to cut it again. I am newbie so a pic would help a lot
02-17-2015, 07:09 AM
#46
Driving my unreliable rx8
No cut off wire. The map sensor is actually a barometer. It goes no where and was not cut. By reconnecting it you have messed up especially by connecting it into the intake manifold which sees high vacuum.
02-17-2015, 08:57 AM
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Thanks man, i removed the vacuum pipe and disconnected it. MY BAD
Thanks for the important info
02-18-2015, 08:39 AM
#48
02-18-2015, 09:12 AM
#49
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Putted in Hi octane ( full tank) now idle missing is very less and feel much more power when i accelerate. Also car starting at cold and hot has come to 1.5 seconds everytime.
02-18-2015, 09:18 AM
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Well, what can i say, i live in an asian country in which i have to rely on the mechanics who know a little about that testing result. THEY called it rear and front rotor and THEY are using analog tester, so i am not satisfied with the results as my car start with in 1.5 seconds whether hot and cold.
All i write here are the words of my mechanic.. i write here so that you guys help me clarify and abbreviate the proper parts name and techniques to use them. For example "Legot " helped me with the barometer sensor cut off wire, so i disconnected the vacuum pipe again because originally it doesn't go anywhere.
Now day by day, i am learning from you guys. there is nothing to be intrigued.
Thanks