Manumatic: good or bad?
#1
Manumatic: good or bad?
Hi, so I'm a new MEMBER here, but I've been reading for a while. First off, I'm planning on buying a RX-8 for my first car, I've done all the home work, I know how to take care of it, I know how it should should when it starts and idles, so save the hate and discouragement, it wont change my mind. Second, is red lining a manumatic RX-8 as effective at preventing carbon buildup as just red lining the manual? Even though it is limited to 2,000 revs less than a manual. all feedback is welcome. thanks!
#2
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
Get a manual.
Get a compression test.
That is all.
Get a compression test.
That is all.
#3
What am I doing here?
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: 2017 Miata RF Launch Edition
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Learning from mistakes is part of maturing and growing up. As far as my mistakes have gone, buying my RX-8 (twice!) has been my favorite. I evidently still need to grow up because I'm the 1st and 4th owner of my '8.
I'm not a clever man.
There's nothing wrong with shiftable-autos. They have their uses and I really wished I had one while I was going through PT to fix my sciatica.
If you're basing your decision on whether the longevity is affected by the lower redline you're using the wrong selection criteria. You should understand that even if you get a car with a good engine, it's likely that you'll be replacing/rebuilding the engine at some point during your ownership regardless of whether it's a manual or automagic.
If you can drive stick, get the manual. If you're physically capable of driving stick but haven't learned, learn and then get the manual.
It's got a second oil cooler, it's got the higher redline, it's got more power and it's got a manual gearbox. Also, the manual comes out of the box with 18" wheels, bigger breaks, an LSD and a carbon fiber drive shaft. You have to get the "Sport Package" to get the wheels, brakes and LSD in the automagic.
I'm not a clever man.
There's nothing wrong with shiftable-autos. They have their uses and I really wished I had one while I was going through PT to fix my sciatica.
If you're basing your decision on whether the longevity is affected by the lower redline you're using the wrong selection criteria. You should understand that even if you get a car with a good engine, it's likely that you'll be replacing/rebuilding the engine at some point during your ownership regardless of whether it's a manual or automagic.
If you can drive stick, get the manual. If you're physically capable of driving stick but haven't learned, learn and then get the manual.
It's got a second oil cooler, it's got the higher redline, it's got more power and it's got a manual gearbox. Also, the manual comes out of the box with 18" wheels, bigger breaks, an LSD and a carbon fiber drive shaft. You have to get the "Sport Package" to get the wheels, brakes and LSD in the automagic.
Last edited by NotAPreppie; 09-23-2016 at 07:36 AM.
#4
Registered
i have never used the manumatic in any of my automatic daily cars. it useless. if you don't get a manual you will regret it at some point in your ownership for the reasons stated above ^
this is fact.
this is fact.
#6
Registered
iTrader: (1)
Hi, so I'm a new MEMBER here, but I've been reading for a while. First off, I'm planning on buying a RX-8 for my first car, I've done all the home work, I know how to take care of it, I know how it should should when it starts and idles, so save the hate and discouragement, it wont change my mind. Second, is red lining a manumatic RX-8 as effective at preventing carbon buildup as just red lining the manual? Even though it is limited to 2,000 revs less than a manual. all feedback is welcome. thanks!
If you're buying a 2004-2005, the automatics are THE most problem-prone, expensive to repair and underpowered version of the RX8. So don't do that.
The RPM doesn't make a difference in burning off carbon, what makes a difference is combustion chamber temperature and pressure -- the more of that for the longer period of time, the better. The way you get temperature and pressure is by going full throttle (in gear, under load), which has a nice side effect of redlining pretty quickly. You can manage that in any car, but it's a lot more fun in a manual
#7
Moder8
iTrader: (1)
Yeah,
The 4 port auto (04-05) should be avoided if you can. Parts are scarce for them as well. I have seen 4 port rebuilds and engines costing more than 6 port for this reason. And, the later auto is supposedly a better transmission.
A well maintained auto will last. I only know of 2 on the planet. Both are in my driveway. If the fluid was changed or refreshed regularly, from about 30K miles on, there may be more. But the term "lifetime" for the fluid is a bit misleading. Lifetime of the fluid = lifetime of the trans, not the other way around.
The 4 port auto (04-05) should be avoided if you can. Parts are scarce for them as well. I have seen 4 port rebuilds and engines costing more than 6 port for this reason. And, the later auto is supposedly a better transmission.
A well maintained auto will last. I only know of 2 on the planet. Both are in my driveway. If the fluid was changed or refreshed regularly, from about 30K miles on, there may be more. But the term "lifetime" for the fluid is a bit misleading. Lifetime of the fluid = lifetime of the trans, not the other way around.
#8
A well maintained auto will last. I only know of 2 on the planet. Both are in my driveway. If the fluid was changed or refreshed regularly, from about 30K miles on, there may be more. But the term "lifetime" for the fluid is a bit misleading. Lifetime of the fluid = lifetime of the trans, not the other way around.
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