Please help... Where does the gear oil or transmission fluid go? It's a manual. Also what issues or warning do I need to know about this car? I'm in Michigan US

 

Welcome!
It goes into the transmission :/
You add it from under the car via the top filling bolt on the driver's side of the trans. Do NOT put GL5 oil (e.g. Royal Purple) in the trans.

When you purchased it, did you have a compression test performed?
The main things you need to know about are covered here: https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/

 

No I didn't get a test compression test... I'll take a look under the car.... I just didn't see anything under the hood. How would I check the fluid to see if it's low.... Because the only dip stick under the hood I see is for the motor oil

 

Manual transmissions are pretty much a closed system. There's hardly anywhere for the gear oil to escape. You inspect it by removing the top bolt and sticking your little finger in that hole. If you get gear oil on your pinkie ... all is good.

Normally you'd drain and change the gear oil about every 50,000 miles. You really don't need to pay attention to it between changes. Same for the differential, except you use a different gear oil. GL4 in the transmission ... GL5 in the differential (rear end).

 

You can also check the DIY (Do It Yourself) forums. It offers many ways for you to perform regular maintenance on the car (as it seems you want to be able to do it on your own).
I'd also recommend reading the new and potential owners sticky at the top of the new members forum.

 

https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/

RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.


every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.

90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
At 100k, anything original in the cooling system is really suspect and failure prone. It represents the biggest threat to your engine.
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hey so I just discovered the place where the differential fluid goes. I was goin to get Red line MT 90 75w-90 gl4 gear oil for the transmission and 75w-90 redline synthetic gear oil for the differential fluid. What do you suggest? Or is that the right fluid to use? Thanks

 

Those are the correct fluids and are good choices.

 

Personally I think the Ford Motorcraft fluids are the best.
Your tranny will love it and reward you with the smoothest shifting ever.
Your rear end... I ain't going there!