WranglerFan

The dealer had it listed on CarGurus for 6990 and suddenly dropped it to $3700 which peaked my curiosity. I called him to ask about the car and why he dropped the price and he didn't give me a chance to talk, as soon as I said I was calling about the Mazda he immediately started in on his full disclosure speech (which helped him earn my trust but proved he knew nothing about a rotary engine).

He asked if I knew that these cars burned oil, and a few other small things and having spent a full week researching everything I can about how these amazing cars work responded with yes, which lead to him giving me further disclosure that the car has trouble starting after its warmed up which is the biggest reason for the price drop (paired with the oil burning which he told me it was supposed to do yet still listed as an issue). I had my suspicions that he was flooding the car so I took the 160 mile drive to see the car for myself. I took it for a test drive and loved it then I left it running and let him shut it off and try to restart it.
Sure enough he flooded it and did not know the de-flood procedure. I had him write up a bill of sale and sign it locking in the price but did not sign anything myself yet, I then went back, hopped in the car, de-flooded, revved the car to 5k and killed it. Started first try. did it again at 4k. First try. again at only three, you get the point, he just needed to thin out the fuel to air ratio before killing the car. I went back and signed the papers, wrote a check and Ill be going back to pick it up after the check clears.
I do think it may have some minor issues because as far as I know it shouldn't be strictly required to rev spike when the engine is fully warmed up as it was in this case, I know that it helps and i'll always do it but my understanding is that a completely healthy engine shouldn't flood when fully warmed if you just kill the ignition at idle. I tried to get a compression test done and he said it was 68 lbs but he did it before I got there so I don't believe that he did it and even if he did he already proved he knows nothing about a rotary so 68 will be an average of all three sides of the rotor because he most likely used a standard compression tester without removing the valve. What do you think, am I in for a lot of time under the hood or did I get lucky by finding a dealer who knew nothing about his product? (for the record I think even if i have a few problems I got a deal, $3700 for a working sports car? body is in decent shape too, gray with a few light scratches, very small ding on pass door, and a little flaking clear just beside the headlight, leather interior all clean and working.)

sonicsdaman

iTrader: (3)

hot start issues usually mean that the engine is on it's way out, a true comp test from the mazda dealer will tell you how healthy the engine is.
also give the engine a tune up, new coils, wires, and spark plugs. change the air filter and the in cabin filter. premix premix premix

if you haven't read up
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/


also welcome to the addiction

WranglerFan

how can I remove this reply?

sonicsdaman

iTrader: (3)

idemitsu is regarded as the best, all-tho can be a little hard to come by( I use this).
Many just use any premix they can buy at the local auto store, the cleaner burning the better.

gwilliams6

Get that rotary engine compression test right away. Replacing a failing engine will cost thousands ! You need to know the true health of your rotary engine

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...t-here-222584/

Starting the Engine
• Starter
• Battery
• Engine Compression
• Grounding Wires
• Ignition Coils
• Spark Plugs
• Spark Plug Wires
• Fuel Pump
• Fuel Injectors


https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/

RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.


every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.

90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
At 100k, anything original in the cooling system is really suspect and failure prone. It represents the biggest threat to your engine.
__________________

czr

iTrader: (3)

Seems like a good deal. You won't know for a while when you see the usual suspects start to go but if you are buying the car with some leftover cash for fixes and maintenance costs, you are in great shape. Good luck with her!

WranglerFan

thanks czr, I already have a problem though, its not deal breaking but I would like to know whats causing it. I'm new to the forums and I've tried to start a new post for it twice and I still don't see my thread here...

I'm having trouble at high rpms, primarily under load. the problem is oil getting in my air intake somehow, causing power loss and huge clouds of smoke. my suspects are the solenoid on the back of the airbox (not really sure why, I just have a feeling its a possibility) a bad oil seal on the rotor allowing excess blowback (sure hope thats not it, I didn't plan on a rebuild until late spring at the earliest) or maybe (and I really hope this is it) something as simple as a plugged cat which I could gut for now and replace with a high flow in another month or two. I don't have access to my tools right now or I'd already have the mid pipe off shining a flashlight down the cat lol. If you or anyone else has some theories I'd be glad to hear them before I go punching out my CAT or buying a new solenoid (It looks like they average $120+)

WranglerFan

Update:

Pulled exhaust and CAT is already gone -.- I put a catch can on and it stays empty if I drive casual. When I decide to have a little more fun the catch can overflows in no time! looks like casual driving for a while and most likely a rebuild somewhere down the line. I'd hate to get rid of the car but I could likely profit selling it. (especially if I wanted to be an a**hole and hide the catch can so it would last long enough for a spirited test drive) but that would be pretty sh*tty and I don't have it in me to do that, stupid conscious >.<

Note to potential owners:
Even if the owner rides with you on test drive, run the **** out of that thing (make sure to hit 8k under load) at least twice and search the engine bay for a catch can. If it has one check the amount of oil in it before and after ******* the car a few times. (or just do it right and get a compression test) And don't forget to check the intake for oil!