ampdmg

Hi guys. I recently got my coolant fluid flushed. Before the flush i was getting max peak temp of 98c(208f) and usually averaged 92-95c(197f-203f). (The danger zone is 104.5c[220f]).

After the fluid flush it stays around 98c and has peaked to 104c! I ran with this fluid for about 2 weeks and it never went down.

Does it take a while for the coolant to get to normal temps?

I went and had it redone with OEM recommended fluid for my 2005 rx8 yesterday. I am hoping it will cool it down.

The shop guy said the OEM one for my 2005 rx8 is not fl22 but it looks like the bottle. It just didnt have the fl22 anywhere.

Anything I can do to cool my engine down? I read that it should be in the 82c-87c (180f-190f)range.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

The coolant doesn't take any form of time to cool off an engine. Either it works immediately, or you have another problem.

Problems after flushing are usually one or more of:
- The flush moved sludge to some other part of the cooling system, reducing efficiency or creating a blockage. Often this is located in the radiator.
- The flush wasn't done properly, and you have air in the system, which will dramatically reduce cooling efficiency.

ampdmg

damn. How do I fix or get it fixed? I this is the second coolant flush and I don't really want to pay more money. Second flush still has hot temps.

Do I need new coolant lines?
More flushes till its all out?
any other ideas?

Thanks
Ampdmg

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Starting with the engine cold, jack up the front of the car at least a foot. Remove the coolant bottle cap. Start the engine. Turn the HVAC controls to max heat, fan on max. Have someone give the engine rev blips up to ~3,000rpm. Watch the coolant in the coolant bottle for air bubbles coming up. If there are any air bubbles, then there is air in the system and it needs to be properly bled.

If there are no air bubbles, then you likely have a cooling system failure somewhere, probably a clog, and probably in the radiator (at a guess from the symptoms). You can get a replacement Koyo radiator (OEM replacement) from Mazmart for $150 + shipping. The work to replace it also involves removing the coolant bottle ($130) and several of the lines (price varies depending on which lines you replace), so you could save a bunch of money in the long run by doing it all together. If you replace everything, it is around $500ish in parts. Yes, it will involve draining and refilling the coolant, no way around that.

If this sounds expensive, a new engine will cost you at least $3,500, probably more. If you can't afford to pay for the labor on that, see if you can get some help from local forum members, lots of them in CA. If you can't even afford the parts, then stop driving the car. If you continue to drive it you will be looking at an engine replacement.

Stummoss

How does one properly bleed the system to remove air? Does a part of the engine get air bound. If so does it take X # of cycles for the air to be expelled? Also, does the temp sensor for the gauge run off the fan/computer sensor.

04Green

iTrader: (1)

@ Stummos,

RIWWP had most of the process. Before I start the engine, I disconnect the top throttle body heater hose, and fill until water comes out. That is a good bleed point. There is no easy way to do the heater core unless you pull the line at the core. I would be very careful around the reservoir, that plastic will break.